Science Chic. Iris Van Herpen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Iris Van Herpen is known for her scientific approach towards fashion. For summer, the designer was inspired with magnets- the name of the collection Magnetic Motion, which matches perfectly. A visit to the Large Handron Collider in CERN, Switzerland was for Iris the thing. There, where the atoms are divided in two, Van Herpen learnt how to “connect”. She applied the idea to manipulating the building blocks of the collection at times—for example, the shoes were “grown” with magnets and a fixative applied, each one slightly different. The pièce de résistance “halo” silhouettes at the end of the show were the physical embodiment in silicone of invisible magnetic forces. These were perfected by the Canadian architect Philip Beesley, one of Van Herpen’s frequent collaborators, who was joined this time by the Dutch artist Jólan van der Wiel.  And all of that super high-technology applied on a simple, black dress or a tunic. You must admit- the effect is ground-shaking.

Selling Feminism. Chanel SS15

October 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Karl Lagerfeld tried doing feminism after a super-market and space odyssey shows. And it felt so, so fake. If you spread feminism through fashion, then at list use more than three models of colour. Use plus-size models and not only the glossy Cara Delevigne and Georgia May Jagger combo which are skinny and “perfect”. It’s not feminism, Karl. It’s just giving a bunch of girls few posters with signs like Boys should also be pregnant or He for She. Showing this, and saying that it’s feminism, seems to be really funny and silly comparing to what, for example, happens in Turkey or Russia. These women really fight for women’s rights. Maybe I shouldn’t connect the fashion thing with politics, but using too big words for too small things isn’t a good matter for an important aim. And by the way- how many women in the world can buy every three months a one-season-only Chanel bag? I thing something is wrong up here… let’s just stay with one thing: MAKE FASHION in fashion (but unfortunately, even the horrible clothes didn’t help the whole collection out of the situation).

Hollywood Boulevard. Saint Laurent SS15

October 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Saint Laurent’s SS15 was a really sultry, hot and steamy event. Other designers are channeling the idealism of the early ’70s this season; Hedi Slimane is into the sexy. “Un, deux, trois, coucher avec toi,” Al Eide sang on the soundtrack, specially commissioned for the show, but don’t let the French lyrics fool you. Everybody got the impression they were in Slimane’s adopted hometown of L.A., hanging backstage with glam-rock fan girls Lori Maddox and Sable Starr in their bad old not even legal days on the Sunset Strip. Is the new collection new tendancy of dressing “slutty”? Is it the Parisian non-chalance? Is it only all about nightlife of Los Angeles teens? One thing’s sure- it’s totally, totally Hedi. He does this aesthetic from the beginning of her Saint Laurent career. And this makes him a real individual of fashion world. These killer heels, super mini skirts, bawdy sheer blouses and avant-garde turbans looked like contrast- but together, they created a chaotic harmony. Lets also note the couture part- the “dirty” dresses were all ambroidered with crystals and sequins. Up close, these skirts and blazers were all about eel leather and velvet. Still having mixed emotions about the collection, but it was surely one of the most unforgettable this season. Art by John Baldessari.

Junior Suite. Sonia Rykiel SS15

October 3, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“My mother wore it a lot, so this felt like coming back to her closet a little bit,” said Julie de Libran. “There are so many codes, and there’s such a nice heritage, which I’m lucky to be able to take from and reinvent, to kind of close the archive, and just go by my selective memory.” I love this kind of fresh perspective on the brand. The designer of Sonia Rykiel simply must be French! The collection, presented in the SR Saint-Germain store was chic, sexy and pretty much basic. It was a good starting point, which hopefully will be developed in the upcoming seasons. And by the way, Gigi Hadid stole the show…

Joan D’Arc. Givenchy SS15

October 3, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Well. Riccardo Tisci AGAIN comes back to his roots, where he was all about stripes and graphical prints. And the harsh sexuality. I hoped this will never come back… but it did. The summer collection, which is totally not for summer, is all about leather, Jesus, heavy metal and, as Riccardo said, Joan d’Arc. Maybe there was something about Joan d’Arc in this collection… the provocation? The over-use of crosses and Christian symbols? I think this Madonna-ish trend died together with punk. The collection felt so, so weak, even dough the embroideries are certainly breath-taking. The collection didn’t introduce nothing new- it made woman look over-sexy and over-bossy. The last few seasons were pretty good, but this broke the timeline. And seeing the Kim and Kanye family ‘like all the time’ during the show looks seriously faux pas. We need a fresh breath, Tisci.