Brutal Love. Rick Owens SS15

September 27, 2014September 27, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mid-century Polish composer Wojciech Kilar was a distinct departure from Owens’ usual visceral electronic noise. Still, he anchored his models to earth with clogs that clacked noisily around the catwalk. Ghost-models, fauns, normal women- all of them clashed in this romantic, but brutal collection. It was a mix of everything Owens did up to date- Luigi Murenu hair-bushed, panel tafetas, black leather, sculptural silhouettes… although there were many cuts and legs to be seen, it all felt attractive through a dark prism. The ortopedic geisha clogs felt also very dramatic. The Ballets Russes, the early 20th century’s most spectacular rejection of the cultural status quo, was his starting point. Owens gave his own spin to a dancer’s tulle.

NASA in Paris. Paco Rabanne SS15

September 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena is just the perfect match for Paco Rabanne. He really makes the brand breath with new life and energy! Very athletic, cosmic, modern- these are the words that do describe the SS15. Having a strong view on details (like bracelets or sci-fi embroideries), Julien and Marie Amelie Sauve did a great job with styling and model casting. Mica looked gorgeous in that knit; Amanda stole the show in that burgundy jacket; Natalie rocked the “shirt” dress. Think Olympic swimming pool, not Saint-Tropez, with color-blocking, contrast piping, daring cutouts, and skirts draped diagonally across the hips, exposing the pelvic bone on one side. They’ll require a phenomenal body to pull off, just as Rabanne’s did back in the day: 21st-century Jane Birkins and Françoise Hardys only. The mustang boots just gave the overall look a sharp, edgy vibe.

Matrix. Balenciaga SS15

September 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

New 8 p.m. time slot, new Palais de Tokyo location, and a state-of-the-art glass and grid-work runway under which dry ice machines pumped smoke. And the new mood appears: matrix and sci-fi. Narrow glasses, long, dark power coats, mesh and cosmic embroideries. At a glance, it was tempting to see signs of Wang’s early work in New York—the way he blended sport and the street. But that’s only part of the story. Wang was in Paris this summer during the Tour de France, and it was the world of cycling—the competitors’ second-skin kits, the shoes that clamp into pedals—that influenced the built-for-speed feeling of this collection. Silhouettes were lean and athletic: the pants leggings-tight, shirts clingy, and dresses cut like a glove. As you might know, from the beginning of Wang’s career at Balenciaga, I didn’t really feel “him” here. But this is the first collection (since AW13) which I pretty much enjoyed. And those lilac elements are simply too good to be true.

Sheer Beauty. Rochas SS15

September 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Being Rochas woman nowadays might be hard- work, children, time for a nap. And the brand is known for it’s non-chalance and avantgarde. But this summer, Alessandro Dell Acqua made a little bit easier. Although we’ve got the super couture embroideries and lots of sheer beauty, there is a new way of being Rochas- wear socks with one of their confetti sling-back pumps! They are gorgeous. Just like the logo-matic R on the blouses and dresses. But for those who feel like dressing up in mostly couture level, there are those breath-taking gowns with tulle, embellished flowers and ribbons… or skirts with crotchet knits… or one of those floral coats… In other words, Dell Acqua brought us lots of different options. And the sheer elements are like magic. As for his second collection for Rochas, mister Alessandro really feels the Rochas spirit.

Nature Moment. Dries Van Noten SS15

September 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dries Van Noten possibly stole the day with his wonderful show yesterday. First of all, the 50m long carpet weaved three months in Argentina, which really looked and felt like moss. Then, the new mood, which feels like the quintessence of the next season- the 70’s and hippie style. We saw them like everywhere- Victoria Beckham, Prada, Derek Lam… but nobody really showed it in a real, original way. But the master of florals, Dries did. His summer woman loves nature, doesn’t care about rules, and mixes the prints the way she wants… showing some nudity. A splash of stripes, oriental embroideries, crotchet, fur, brocade, zig-zags and many more was the big thing. In other words, the hippie chic, where prints take the role, ruled.

Aah… and everything styled with sandals. The trousers were slouchy, the blazers were like whatever. The sheer beauty of Dries Van Noten’s Spring collection was inspired by John Everett Millais’ Ophelia, the Pre-Raphaelite image that launched a million hippie fantasies. In the painting, Ophelia floats dreamily in a magical woodland setting. And when the models had their final walk, everybody was totally relaxed- in a lazy way, the girls sat down on the “moss” having a nap. I think, we need to go to the forest, then. I am truely moved and in love. Thanks, Dries.