I was crying during the show! That was so, so horrifying that Marc Jacobs is out of Louis Vuitton and that it was his last collection for this luxurious fashion house from Paris. Will somebody be better than this American in Paris? Surely, these were fantastic years with Jacobs- Night Porter, geometrical shapes, boudoir, trains, grunge, African tribal inspirations… These were just few of things that were accompanying us together with Jacobs. It will be very sad for now. But, about the collection now. It was like a mix of everything that Marc did for LV. The show was presented in gothic venue with a dark fountain, victorian buildings and a grand clock that gave a dramatic twist to the collection. Edie Campbell, the muse of Marc Jacobs, opened the collection in an amazing logo body, having chains and a massive feather decoration on head. The next models (a lot of famous faces!) were also dresses in Victorian inspired way- detailed gowns, feather hats and… yes, denim jeans that was a surprise. That looked epic. C’mon, only MJ could mix a Victorian dress with jeans. And that’s why my heart will always have a place for Marc Jacobs collection. Even if they will be a fail.
PFW
UFO Tribes. McQueen SS14
The Alexander McQueen Summer for 2014 was defintely out of this world. Sarah Burton changed her characteristic avant-garde style of past English Queen gowns with lace and pearls into alien costumes, dresses and trousers in grafic prints and strong colours. The collection was inspired with African tribes… but possibly coming from Mars. The plexi killer heels that really remind Alexander McQueen’s footwear when he was alive were so, so cosmic! The sexy bustiers mixed with feathers reminded of strong women wearing futuristic creations, and the gold helmets… And the last four looks are certainly this, what the techno Masais wear in the future. And possibly in very close future!
Aztec Opulence. Valentino SS14
Valentino was definitely one of the most beautiful collections of the season. With the SS14’s tribal influence, Valentino took us to South America, where Aztecs and Mayas decorated their temples in opulent and splendour way. The craftsmanship of the collection is impressive- all the couture embroideries on dresses looked like if were made by one of the local Mexican women, dying and threading each flower and shape into silk. There were also some inspirations with Latin explorer-chic- suede capes with frenzies, sandals, jewellery with zodiac amazing use of denim with Guatemalan skirts and tops. However, there was something about sexy 70’s of Hollywood and Byzantine luxury hidden in the looks- crowns, rich colours, sensual lace, ribboned shirts… Valentino not only took as into the beautiful journey to South America and it’s secrets, but also made it in surrounded with European qualities and chic!
Gallery. Chanel SS14
The Chanel SS14 was a big surprise for everyone. Maybe not from the clothing side (tweeds, bags and jackets are as always in the collection) but from the venue selection. Well… The Chanel collection happened in Grand Palais, but in a pretty original setting. It was a modern art gallery. The catwalk was in the middle, and on the sides were artistic installations and oaintings, all designed of course by master of Paris fashion- Karl Lagerfeld. There was a naked man, a double C sculpture made of No5 perfume bottles and even a trash bin full of. Chanel bag chains… In other words, only CHANEL. And the collection was simply amazingly, kawaii-cute, super cool. It felt Karl was still into the Shanghai topic like on his Resort collection, but in a more tweeted and Coco accentuated way. The collection was all about female artists and one colour- pink. Pink, pink, pink. This cute colour was like everywhere- on dresses, on jackets, on bags! Plus there was this paint-brush print on last looks- maybe it’s kind of trivial, but not for Lagerfeld. Theme of this Summer collection was moving the sense of fashion and art, about how they meet and full fill each other. In the Chanel edition, every piece of art is amazing (while most of it… Is fashion!).
Rock ‘n Chic. Saint Laurent SS14
That was the third Saint Laurent fashion show under the wings of Hedi Slimane, and it was… the best! I am still blown up after this collection that was presented in Grand Palais in Paris yesterday. On the entry, there was a big, LED lights installation that reminded of some abstract piece of art. And then the show begun of course with… Edie Campbell, with gloomy hairstyle and eye make-up. She wore a beautiful V-neck dress in black colour. Sexy and chic. Then the classical Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking shown in a much more casual way. The collection wasn’t punk itself- it was very chic and elegant, but had a rock ‘n roll twist too. Stripes t-shirts, sequined jackets, sharp hair-cuts, over-large sleeves and lips/fire print on few mini dresses. Hedi definitely got mad with all these grunge boots from Winter, but certainly he did fell in love with socks under stilettos… I think this is one of the coolest trend, while most people are totally on NO when they see this. But in the Saint Laurent edition, it simply looked great. The SS14 collection by Saint laurent was definitely one of my favourite this season!
Design & Culture by Ed 