Parma’s Addresses

August 3, 2018August 3, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Parma (about which I wrote a separate post here) is a place where you can buy both, a pair of linen pants tailored by a small Italian family brand, and a jet-set era Gucci bag. And, while shopping, make sure to meet and talk to the local sellers and shopkeepers, who truly adore fashion and truly live their chic, Italian style. But also, Parma has this secret (to tourists, at least!) spot where you can dine in front of a church as if you lived in a Fellini film. Scroll down to discover my favourite addresses in the city, that isn’t just ham and Parmesan cheese.

Gazzabuglio di Letyzia

A tiny boutique with first class vintage. Chanel tweeds, Louis Vuitton suitcases, Hérmes foulards, Gucci leathers. All curated by Letyzia, a gorgeous, Italian signora that seems to know every seem in every single piece she sells.

Borgo XX Marzo

Soffio

This menswear store is heaven for tailoring devotees who don’t want to look too formal. Great shoes, pants, shirts… well, everything. Note the interior, that’s filled with Italian design gems. Second floor is in the making, so expect even more of Soffio’s selection in the upcoming months.

Borgo Giacomo Tommasini 3/D

Laura Nocco Gioielli

I think I’ve spent an hour at Laura Nocco’s Parma boutique. Especially, I took my time to thoroughly examine her latest ‘tribal’ collection, which consists of metal hoops, rings, necklaces and bracelets. Nocco sought for inspiration in books about masks coming from different parts of Africa and Mexico, and captured their mystical aura in those unique, wearable artworks. Other than her own works, this designer as well sells rare, vintage jewellery (like this gold-pleated hand brooch).

Str. Duomo 1

Store 333

This place reminded me of Berlin’s Voo Store and Porto’s Early Made. From Henrik Vibskov’s playful apparel to the most comfortable sneakers I know, Veja, Store 333 is the go-to address of the locals who might from time to time take a rest from the ‘Made in Italy’ tag.

Borgo Giacomo Tommasini 12

O Luxury

Parma’s biggest luxury multibrand that has multiple stores located on one street (each with different character, from the ‘hype’ one to ‘rich Italian woman’ one). Here you will find Gucci, Attico, J.W. Anderson, Vetemets and even Rick Owens for Birkenstocks.

Via Nazario Sauro

Croce di Malta

That’s my favourite restaurant in the entire Parma – it’s the one located in front of an old, no longer attended church. The food is simple, but so, so good. And that evening mood when you sit outside is unforgettable.

Borgo Palmia 8

Galleria Borgobello di Peppe Jervolino

Again, vintage – but more focused on jewellery and furniture. Peppe Jervolino’s vast selection of camelias, pearls, pendants, charms and pretty much every type of jewellery is impressive. It’s quite funny to see how today’s Valentino and Marni simply hit the vintage stores to find some inspo for their new season jewellery…

Via Repubblica 92B

So, those are my favourites if speaking of Parma. Few more addresses are as well here.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Parma, Love You.

August 2, 2018August 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although prosperous cities in the Northern part of Italy are nothing of a surprise, there’s probably no other place like Parma that’s so devoted to the pleasures of life. Well, no wonder why – it’s the city of ham (yes, that Parma ham!) and Parmesan cheese. There’s no possible way that anyone can feel sad in here, in the heaven of Italian cuisine.

This refined city has lots of chic caffes and elegant restaurants, not speaking of the very well curated boutiques and vintage stores (filled with 70s Pucci, for example). The historic city centre isn’t too big, and you can virtually grasp it in one day. Start from Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral from 11th century is located. Take a moment to look at all those impressive frescoes, painted by Correggio back in the past. Just a few metres from the cathedral there’s also the equally precious baptistery, fully built from orange-y marble brought straight from Verona. After you finish admiring the piazza, go straight to Palazzo dell Pilotta (unless you stop for a heaven ice coffee or some local pastry on the way…). The colossal building holds three institutions: the library, the archeological museum and the Teatro Farnese. All of them are worth seeing, but to be honest, the last one is the most astounding experience. It’s a theatre constructed totally out of wood, from 1617. Even though it’s no longer in use, a walk around the incredibly looking stage and auditorium feels as great as seeing a delightful spectacle. Note the fantastically opulent molding and ornaments… I didn’t expect Parma to be that truly gorgeous. It’s a must-see if you ask me, but also, a smart place to stay for a few nights so that you can easily drive to other places in the vicinity.

P.s. I will post my favourite addresses in Parma soon, but in the meantime – did you see the newly updated ‘Places’ page?

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

When in Genoa

July 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once called the ‘mistress of the sea’ due to its port, today Genoa (also read as Genova) isn’t that much in favour, especially if speaking of tourists. There’s no sense in planning your walk around the historic centre of the city. The streets and narrow caruggi twine and tangle without much logic, so it’s better to go with the flow (but remember not to get too lost – it’s better to stay in the main part of the city, since Genoa in general is infamous for being one of the least safe places in Italy). The local roughness and state of dilapidated, close-to-ruin buildings might repel at the beginning, but you will surely feel the charm on the second day of your stay. Genoa reminds you that Italy isn’t that polished after all, and the laundry getting dried on the streets isn’t a postcard cliché, but reality. What’s definitely worth visiting is Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (which is somewhere between Gothic and Baroque style) that stores an underground treasury. Still, Genoa’s streets intrigued me the most. At some moments they get totally dark, even in the day-time. Not only because they are narrow; the townhouses are surprisingly tall as well. The effect is highly cinematic. Also note all the small food markets. For coffee, go to the chic Caffè Degli Specchi that has the best ice coffee, while for small shopping try Aspesi (best ‘Made in Italy’ shirts in very affordable prices) and the vintage market situated at Galleria Mazzini (next post is coming up on that magical place!). But in the end, even though every guide seems to hate Genoa, we had great time here. We weren’t robbed or anything like that!

A hint: if you’re travelling in a big car, Genoa might be a hard nut to crack. Parking here is a nightmare, and no guide will tell you this…

More of my addresses from Genoa are right here.

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Céline in Munich

July 22, 2018July 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Our road trip to Italy (lots of posts coming up!) had some stops. And the first, but very major one, was the Céline store in Munich. We weren’t only lured by Phoebe Philo’s last pieces for the brand. The two-floor store was opened last September, and will be -unfortunately – soon refurbished under Hedi Slimane’s direction (as all the other Céline boutiques around the world). So, we wanted to have this ‘good-bye’ moment with the multicoloured marble tiles inlaid with semi-precious stones, the abstract hangers and shelves, fluffy sofas and enormously big pot plants that made each Céline store somewhat feel like home for all the Philophiles. As all the other Céline stores, this one was designed by the Danish artist Thomas Poulsen. Together with the pre-fall 2018 goods (think rubber boots and over-sized hoodies), everything from the colours to textures works in a perfect harmony. Now, I’m serious – if an eventual garage sale of the Céline store stuff comes up, please, let me know!

Maximilianstrasse 22 / Munich

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Lisbon Guide

June 30, 2018June 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It was my second time in Lisbon (I’ve been there in April as well – see all the posts on it here), but I still feel like I need a separate month to discover this city fully. Why? The number of tiny stores with well-curated, limited edition goods (from notebooks to babouche slippers) is unbelievable here, and it really needs time to get to know all of them! Just like with various concept stores, boutiques and outlets…

Below are the five spots I found intriguing. But I know there are more! So if you want to start with something, scroll down.

I adore places like Artes & Letras Atelier, because I’m a huge devotee of print. This small store works as well as a studio, where all the notebooks, pamphlets, postcards, letters and illustrations are made. Bought a beautiful, hand-sewn notebook here and I can’t let myself use it – it’s too precious.

Rua dos Poiais de São Bento 90

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Designer Ana Costa has created the brand +351 which stands for the Portuguese dialing code. Ana’s creative process is inspired by her lifestyle, which is connected with the city of Lisbon and it’s proximity with the ocean. Influenced by her surroundings, and her surfing passion, Ana delivers clothing with an attitude, but in a relaxed day-to-day style. Once visiting their flagship boutique, take a look at all the striped tops!

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Embaixada is located in Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, one of the most iconic building in the trendy neighbourhood of Príncipe Real. This XIX century new-Arabian Palace was turned into an innovative shopping gallery that hosts a series of national brands and artists focused on Portuguese design, craftsmanship, fashion, gastronomy and culture. The result is a meeting point of people and experiences, blending preservation of the architectural heritage with the newest that Portugal has to offer.

Praça do Príncipe Real 26

Lisbon is one of the most diverse cities in the world. No wonder that you can even find a store fully dedicated to clothes coming from India. Lost In has a gorgeous selection of shirts, jackets, shawls and dresses, all kept in bold colours and made from finest cottons. Just behind the store you’ve got a bar/restaurant with the same name. Didn’t eat there, though.

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Casa Pau-Brasil is another spot that can be easily dubbed as ‘mind-blowing’. At the entrance, stuffed yellow birds hang from the ceiling of the Palácio Castilho in Lisbon’s Príncipe Real neighbourhood. Casa Pau-Brasil opened its doors in April 2017 to stage Brazilian design, fashion and beauty to the European world. This huge space sells the best of Brazil – Fernando and Umberto Campana’s surreal furniture; wooden tables from Hugo França; evening wear from Juliana Herc; sweets by Chocolate Q. And many, many others.

Rua da Escola Politécnica 42

If you’re interested in reading more posts on Portugal, or you’re planning your trip to places like Porto or the Algarve region, click here.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.