Poetic

Although poets and writers rarely resort to high fashion, Lemaire‘ spring-summer 2018 is the way I imagine a creative soul to dress on the daily. Equally melancholic as their imaginary (or not) muse, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran went against the flow and showed a rather elegant, toned collection comparing to other designers this season. But that doesn’t make Lemaire’s offering less charming. Quite opposite – it’s sophisticated and wearable at the same time, oddly seductive and refined. Satin apron dresses, shirts in watercolour print, brown masculine blazers and interestingly fitted tuxedo looks in shades of khaki, navy and dark purple. It’s not for every person that feels comfortable in minimalism, though. You’ve got to be the ‘character’ to really enjoy those not-just-chic pieces. Lemaire’s prime interest is in the clothes, not the entire frame around it. Certainly, the creative duo behind the label pulled it off well, with no big, common for Paris, fuss.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

I AM RED WITH LOVE was the statement that perfectly captured the mood of Sébastien Meunier‘s spring-summer 2017 offering at Ann Demeulemeester. We’ve seen romantic guys at Haider Ackermann and Pigalle earlier in Paris, and Demeulemeester man is also utterly into poetic love. “Rebel in love,” the designer mused backstage. “Love is a colorful emotion for me. And we can say also I am black with love. But we blush and we become a bit red when we are in love, so there is all of that. I wanted to give something that was a bit shy—emotion, charming emotion.” Meunier feels like at home after a few seasons spent at Demeulemeester, and he uses Ann’s signatures with grace – light, satin shirts covered with layers of feather pendants and charms, military jackets in black, and sheer tank-tops with stitched, red-thread slogans. The chunky knits looked impressive, too, oozing with hearty-arty slouchiness.