Ania Kuczynska’s Wave

March 29, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ania Kuczyńska‘s latest capsule collection entitled Black Celebration 1986 is an intimate exploration of memories and associations, likely kept in deep, black-and-white tones. This Polish designer, who’s the founder of Warsaw’s beloved eponymous label, continues to combine and fuse inspirations in the least expected ways. The name of the collection might ring a bell – of course, we’re speaking of Depeche Mode’s most (as for me) melancholic album, which might be a perfect backdrop for these elusive, analog snaps by Stanislaw Boniecki. But Ania goes further, nodding to new wave tendencies in Polish film and music (from Roman Polanski’s intriguing dramas to Krzysztof Komeda’s cinematic tunes). New wave era had a magnetising, truly absorbing aura – the same feelings surrounds Kuczyńska’s garments. Unisex turtlenecks à la the existentialists; below-the-knee pleated skirts; t-shirts with shoulder-exposing cuts. It’s not about pursuing the newness, but rather, focusing on essentials, perfecting them. Kuczyńska’s house codes evolve – and this collection is a beautiful addition to her creative language.

Autumn Escape

October 31, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Autumn is my favourite season.

Lena, all in No21.

Real honey.

Bee yard.

Still life in nature.

Mushroom planet.

Kamila, wearing a No21 knit.

Red.

Another mushroom planet.

Layers.

Lena, all in No21.

Gold.

No21 clothes from Concept 21 Store. Photographs by Edward Kanarecki.

Object of Desire. MISBHV SS17

September 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I can sum up my love to MISBHV in this simple way – Russians have Gosha Rubchinskiy, Western Europe has Vetements, and Poles have Natalia Maczek‘s label. So, you’ve guessed right, seeing a Polish brand having a presentation in New York makes me super, super proud. MISBHV, a label that since its very beginnings caused longing desire in my, and my friends’ hearts. Maybe that’s why spring-summer 2017 collection for women is entitled “Object of Desire“? Before, MISBHV’s main focus was on menswear, but the success of HARD CORE or WARSZAWA sweatshirts among women meant something – it was high time for a new chapter.

For her first New York show, Natalia openly admits that she was obsessed with the idea of a 17-year-old girl from 00s, who loves disco. The naive character of this girl contrasts with rough party raving and the character of techno music – she wants to look her best, trying out unconventional combinations made up of her teenager clothes. Zirconia embellished crop-tops, pink chokers in leather, raw-cut t-shirts resembling heavy-metal concert souvenirs – this is the world of MISBHV, based on nostalgic fashion horrors and DIY styling. Denim pieces, like the elongated pants or laced-up slit skirt, are my absolute favourites. Of course, I can’t be too saccharine – it’s fairly noticeable that MISBHV isn’t far from today’s most relevant aesthetic (the uglier the better). But, I don’t mind. I’m celebrating Maczek’s and her team’s success like a national holiday.

East. Ania Kuczyńska AW16

August 26, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ania Kuczyńska is Poland’s most recognizable designer for a reason. After years of working in the industry, her signature style is distinct. Her fashion is consistent, and that’s why she’s leading in Polish fashion game. Aware of her ‘trademark’ pieces, like her take on the little black dress, or Warsaw’s street-style favourite Shanghai totes, Kuczyńska’s eponymous attitude is beloved by her intellectual customers. But don’t think she’s resting on laurels.

The newest autumn-winter 2016 look-book (presented off the schedule), entitled ‘East’, might be dubbed as one of her most refined collections to date. At the first glance it’s very stern, definitely moving away from girlie sweetness which we know so well from Ania’s past collections. Mostly kept in black, with contrasting denim accents, the collection glances at the craftsmanship of the past. With nods to traditional ‘dress-code’ of Polish noblemen from 16th-17th century, AW16 is a contemporary look on elegance of historic silhouettes. Some of the names of new season’s items – for example ‘Baikal’ for a bomber jacket – make it visible that the collection is rooted in Slavic references, which aren’t too cartoonish or literal. The designer’s vision is always open for interpretation, leaving some mystery for the viewer. I, for instance, feel a connection between those incredible black coats and turtlenecks, and Paweł Pawlikowski’s masterpiece, Ida – a story of a nun who discovers her Jewish origins, and seeks the truth about her family. The black-and-white aura of this film goes hand in hand with Kuczyńska’s elusive woman.

This is Paper Store

July 19, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

This is Paper is Warsaw‘s best kept secret. Aesthetically aware and Japanese-minimalism loving, everything about This is Paper feels well-considered, and absolutely individual. Starting with their already cult, extremely durable, vegetable-tanned leather backpacks, and ending on advertising-free, signature magazine issues, this Polish brand found back in 2011 keeps on evolving up to now, being consistently true to their style. A brand, so perfect in its creative strategy, definitely should have a space, where its vision can be experienced by the others – and here it is, the newly opened, flagship store, hidden in Warsaw’s not-that-trendy district and settled on quiet Odolańska street.

When I entered This is Paper’s stationary boutique the first time, I was pleasantly shocked by the oozing peace of those white walls and wooden shelves (holding denim rucksacks, practical transfer bags, loads of plants and niche books). Everything seems to slow down here, and the time flows in the peculiar rhyme of Asa Changs & Junray’s “Hana” track. The sales assistant matches the place’s pace, too, with laid-back, unpretentious attitude. On the left, I’ve spotted the tea-room corner, and I was really surprised, when the ‘This is Paper girl’ suggested trying her favourite taste. “You can’t buy blindly – first try it” – such a hearty and down-to-earth statement to say. In awe, I sipped the delightfully refreshing tea while listening to the story of its origin. Of course, the high-quality green tea comes from Japan, and the owners of This is Paper did their best to find the most organic and pure type. Their taste buds took them to Fukuoka prefecture, were they discovered a small, family business – against mass production, the father-and-son duo care about the tiniest details of proper tea-making process. This is Paper specializes in a wide selection of teas from Fukuoka, but they also import a great brand from Berlin – Paper & Tea.

I discovered This is Paper a few years ago (prove: I’ve written a piece about them here), and when I discovered that they are opening a store, I just couldn’t wait to see it. But it was their Instagram post with ‘matchamisu’, which made me come straight to their place. Except selling tea, This is Paper uses it in a variety of little, home-made desserts, and matcha-modified tiramisu is their latest addition. I tell you, it’s heaven for the eye and for the mouth. Also, you can try out their another specialty – matcha pralines with edible green tea, roasted rice and other flavours.

This is Paper’s store (and design studio located in the back of the retail space) isn’t just a minimally furnished spot in an off-beat part of Polish capital. It’s a totally different view on commerce, which fuses all human senses and creates desire. “Less is more” isn’t a clichee here, but an asset.

Odolańska 6-8 / Warsaw