Men’s / Gameboy. Prada SS18

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“They are hand-drawn, human, simple and real. Even if they contain of course all the worst fantasy, they look simple. . . . They are little fragments of life, which is what you get now from the information, the media: So I was more and more attracted by them. Even if I never liked them.” What’s Miuccia Prada talking about this season? Comic books!

The venue of the spring-summer 2018 fashion show was all covered in James Jean’s and Ollie Schrauwen’s graphics and prints, presenting some utopian, subverted reality – a reality, that has always been Prada‘s fantasy. The pieces covered in comics illustrations, like bumbags and knits, will surely end as the season’s most coveted pieces of Prada maniacs. Miuccia associates reading comics with young boys, that’s why the Prada gameboy went for geeky Velcro straps, a collar-up shirt and lots, lots of nylon. Childhood naivety in pure form: the boys are happy with their gaming achievements, while wearing red pants and sandals with socks. But Prada doesn’t want her male customer to infinitely fall into infantilism. Note the voluminous, wool coats. “Everything was a little bit too naive, too simple, so we thought these heavy coats would be the right counterpart. That is just fashion—because we love it.”

One can’t ignore the fact that it was the first men’s Prada collection in a while lacking the women’s looks. As the female part got a separate resort show a month ago at Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the guests had to focus solely on menswear. Surely, that was the aim of the brand’s management – to some extend, you rather got more ecstatic about those few dresses and gorgeous pumps than the line-up of suits. But showing both men’s and women’s clothes in a show used to be Miuccia’s vision, so…

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Looks for Twin Peaks Life

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Miu Miu pre-fall’17

I guess we’ve all watched the same thing yesterday evening – Twin Peaks 2, of course. David Lynch is in great, twice edgier and even more eccentric form, and we really did meet 25 years later… so, after the first have episodes aired, it’s quite the right time to think of alternative, matching Twin Peaks looks of the season. I mean from this literal season (autumn-winter 2017, for the concerned ones), not from some another, Lynchian dimension.

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Prada autumn-winter 2017

Miuccia Prada has mentioned Lynch many times, while discussing her collections. His portrait of female characters is just the right amount of elusive femme fatale style and cardigans – read: a Prada woman in American suburbs.

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Balenciaga autumn-winter 2017

Those voluminous coats with strange buttonings by Demna Gvasalia will surely get your hands twisted and feel like from another time lapse.

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Saint Laurent autumn-winter 2017

Anthony Vaccarello has accidentally created a perfect, modern-day Laura Palmer dress.

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Brock Collection autumn-winter 2017

This one’s from the episodes. That outfit is so, so the principal’s wife look, pre- and post-murder. No spoilers! Watch yourself to get it right.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

In the Osservatorio. Prada Resort’18

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Time is understood differently, but the fashion industry has the most abstract sense of it. Although Miuccia Prada doesn’t put her newest collection into a specific season, let’s face it: we’re heading towards resort 2018, a summer pre-collection, that will hit the stores just before Christmas.

(And it’s May. A very breezy May. Spring-summer 2017 collections are hitting the stores, like, right now.)

Ironic, yes. But the collection is remarkable. Prada chose Galleria Vittorio Emanuele’s attic-like Osservatorio space, which is just above the brand’s historical flagship boutique. With an enchanting view at Milan in the background, the models walked the runway wearing every pastel colour possible. From soft pink to light lilac, Miuccia revisited her signatures in springish tones: intricately embellished sheer sheaths, femme-fatale coat-dresses, nylon tousers, feather headbands. All the components, that make the sophisticated and modern Prada woman become reality, not just a designer fantasy. Miuccia invited James Jean – the same artist who did the iconic fairy prints for the brand in 2008 – to work on accessories and mini-dresses, injecting this already cute collection with rabbit illustrations. But was this collection that cute, though? Not really – nerdish knee-lenght socks and pointy shoes reminded everybody, that Prada is about ugly chic, after all.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.