That Look. Prada ’08 Goodness.

November 23, 2016November 23, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

You know, there are those certain looks that stuck in your head for longer than one season. Miuccia Prada‘s genius autumn-winter 2008 collection, which was a subversive take on a Sunday-at-church look (I was drooling over it here), is filled with lace pieces and ruffled heels that will never, ever, become outdated. Look 22 is particularly impressive, from the top to the bottom. Every detail counts. Vlada Roslyakova wore a beige turtleneck with a kind of mini-collar, layered under a soft, same-colour knit. The knee-lenght skirt, kept in a pale shade, looked fantastic, styled with gold pumps and a matching, cute ruffle bag. If you ask me, what’s a Prada look, then I will show you this picture. 101% sure.

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Beauty corner! Charlotte Tilbury ‘Kate Moss’ Lipstick, Charlotte Tilbury ‘Eyes to Mesmerise Kit’ & Byredo ‘Mojave Ghost’ eau de parfum .

What’s Hot (18.11.16)

November 18, 2016November 18, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Prada silk-faille midi-skirt, Prada embellished velvet boots & The Row bags.

Amen! From Communion Dress to Sexy Lace.

November 12, 2016March 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who isn’t obsessed with Paolo Sorrentino’s ground-breaking drama series, The Young Pope? I’m on the fifth episode, and I can’t stop watching. And it appears that the fashion industry is into it, too – it’s quite visible on Instagram feed of Massimo Giorgetti. When HBO airs the new episodes, be sure to see his favourite stills. It’s impossible not to praise Jude Law for the role of frustrated-with-life pope, whose cynical attitude plays on nerves of old cardinals. He smokes cigarettes in Vatican’s holiest chambers, badass. And has those psychedelic visions and dreams… Also, what the pope wears each time catches my eye specifically – the most intricately embroidered mitres, traditional silk choir dresses and fancy papal shoes, kept in red velvet. Amen.

Fashion has never been far from the topic of religion, and we can frequently observe how designers play with various stereotypes. Lately, Catholicism is having a ‘moment’, if you can say so, spanning from Stefano Pilati‘s 2010 outing at Saint Laurent to Miuccia Prada‘s constant love for uniforms – specifically, the “nun look” is her favourite to experiment with. What comes with the feeling of sacrality in fashion is a certain type of refined elegance. As Prada put it in the latest issue of System Magazine, “for me, lace is only beautiful if it’s black, and funeral, and super chic. Or white, for a baptism”. And that’s obvious, if you look at her autumn-winter 2008 collection, which entirely focuses on usage of, somewhat, seductive lace. There’s no wonder why a lace dress seems to be both, very Sunday-at-church, but at the same time a romantic essential of every wardrobe. Italian women, like the ones you can spot in Siena or Palermo, know that, just as their grandmas did.

Prada AW08

Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati intepreatation of a modern-day nun-woman.

Saint Laurent AW10

Simone Rochas SS17

Simone Rocha SS17

Simone Rochas SS17

Simone Rocha SS17

Meanwhile, Simone Rocha staged her spring-summer 2017 show in Southwark Cathedral, where the models walked down the gothic aisle. The venue matched the charming sublimity of Rocha’s latest line of delicate textures and girlie silhouettes, and it smoothly worked with the collection’s British accents. While working on the collection, the designer took a glance at baptismal gowns and communion dresses, reworking them in authentic broderie anglaise lace. But don’t expect to see a traditional wedding dress here. Simone Rocha’s fascination with perversion oozes in those not-so-bride-ready gowns. Although we’re talking about sacred and holy, the designer’s pieces are far from innocent. Sheer organza sheath with elongated sleeves shyly exposed nipples, while a tulle skirt with embroidered flowers showed some leg… accidentally. Note the models’ patent wellies and synthetic-white, rubber gloves. Red lips and wet hair. Rocha’s Catholic girls coming from good village families are naughty. In a very elusive, gentle way.

A similar look… Valentino lace midi-dress, Balenciaga ankle boots and Manu Atelier bag

Helmut Lang SS90

Gucci AW16

Gucci AW15

Gucci AW16

In the 90s, the prince of minimalism – Helmut Lang – expectantly presented a look that shocked his biggest followers. A shoulder-exposing black knitted dress would become Lang’s typical classic. But the big, heart necklace (à la Madonna’s Like a prayer) was a statement. Worn like a big cross, that was the moment when Helmut questioned his signature minimalism with use of ornaments. And all types of opulent decorations are close to Vatican’s richness, and the Pope’s collection of heavily embellished signet rings. Alessandro Michele, another Italian who gets Italian women best, isn’t scared to pull off a number of rich rings, necklaces and bracelet at a time. For the last few seasons, Gucci is loved for its jewellery, which defines the term ‘neo-kitsch’.

Balenciaga SS17

Demna Gvasalia’s take on Balenciaga is profound, taking under consideration all aspects that were important for Cristobal Balenciaga. For women’s autumn, the creative director delivered flamenco dresses in florals, mentioning Balenciaga’s Spanish origins. This instantly brings on the idea of Catholicism, which was moved this season for the boys. Cristobal was a passionate Catholic, and it was his everyday habit to go to a church on Avenue George V, a stone throw from his atelier. That’s why the last looks were ornamented with Vatican lace, liturgical red and purple silks. As for a menswear debut, Gvasalia nailed it, even though one could be skeptical whether the up-to-now male clients of Balenciaga, used to basic white shirts and sneakers, will devote themselves to this new style religion.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW16

Balenciaga SS12

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW16

Balenciaga SS12

Of course, I can’t forget about high fashion habits, re-invented by such visionaries like Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood or Nicolas Ghesquiere (when he was still at Balenciaga). In case of the latter, the headpieces became must-have beach hats of that season.

Hallelujah.

What’s Hot (8.11.16)

Image | November 8, 2016October 18, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Warm November Dibs

November 5, 2016November 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I always find November as a very complicated period for dressing. At this point, let’s forget about the pleasure of September clothes, which feel so fresh, when you take them out of your wardrobe after summer season of shorts and t-shirts. Still, November isn’t December: Christmas and festive mood isn’t present yet. November is November. Occasional sun deceives you, just like the yellow leaves – in fact, it’s so, so COLD.

Some designers, who live in a real world, understand those down-to-earth human needs, which touch all of us in the late autumn. I’m honest: I’m really not into resort collections, which start to hit the stores. Also, the idea that I will need to survive entire autumn in a biker jacket, as most of pre-fall and winter collections say, doesn’t appeal to me even a bit. That’s why I treasure brands like Holland & Holland. Re-invented by two, fantastic women, Stella Tennant and Isabella Cawdor, the historic British brand puts emphasis on classical tweed, knitted goods, shirts, outerwear, tailoring and accessories. Tennant and Cawdor certainly know what does it mean to feel the November chill – both of them live in Scottish highlands, and are surrounded by moors since childhood. Looking at the look-book of their autumn-winter 2016 collection, you will believe them – a pair of woollen pants and a fur-trimmed parka won’t let you catch a cold. Just like at The Row, where Olsen sisters wait for you with ankle-lenght astrakhan coats and double-face cashmere sweaters.

Holland & Hollad AW16

Holland & Holland AW16

The Row AW16

Phoebe Philo, the woman for women at Céline, knows that layering is the key, and there is no autumn without over-sized pants, soft turtlenecks and well-tailored coats. That’s obvious, looking at her newer, and older collections (which seem to be endlessly relevant, by the way). No one does wool jackets like Hillier Bartley – modelled on classic British riding styles, a Hound’s-tooth ensemble instantly stole my heart. British and American designers are the ones who you can rely on in case of autumn essentials. Count on Italians, too – Miuccia Prada’s genius AW16 at her main line has a say in terms of coats and knits.

Hillier Bartley AW16

Parisian designers have a different attitude towards November-dressing, and to understand that, take a glance at Lemaire‘s autumn outing of pure French chic. Subtle silhouettes, like fine, black coats or cable-knits with Elizabethan sleeves define the word ‘cozy’ like no other. You can grab those clothes, and go out, without a second thought.

One of my favourite collections ever, which I tend to look back at quite frequently during November evenings, is Haider Ackermann‘s 2014 collection. Kept in various shades of grey and brown, Ackermann took a new spin on his eveningwear, delivering floor-sweeping coats and ultra-feminine wide trousers in wool. Pencil skirts and thick blazers – maybe November isn’t that bad, after all? From layers and layers of cashmere to dapper power-dressing, November is the season when you can truly embrace a kind of toned, stately elegance.