Men’s – Thought Provoking. Prada AW15

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Back to 90’s? Back to  ugliness and uniforms? Prada says so in her recent AW15 collection for men and pre-fall 2015 for women. Kept in black, grey and beige colour palette only, Miuccia Prada made it a bit dull and very melancholic. Every men’s piece seems to be same. Suits, shirts, shoes, bags. The hair also seems to be super common for office-guys who do paper work and this type of stuff. While the girls seem to be as boring as their dates. The only thing that caught the eye was the hair – “A bow wraps a present,” Miuccia mused. “Am I presenting woman as object?” Well, hopefully not. And if talking of the shoes – that’s a horror, in my opinion. A comeback to Aqua World? They seem to be so anti-attractive. As I usually find something amusing and beautiful in Prada’s collections, this time I just can’t.

But one thing’s sure: the shared aesthetic this time was simple. “Uniform, severe, elegant: This is the fashion I like at this moment.” Miuccia seems to be down with her mood. Well, who wouldn’t after this what happened lately in Paris? Now it’s your turn to interpret this collection.

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Not That Perfect

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 Cedric Charlier

The SS15 season is all about 70’s- so, how you might know, a theme full of colours, imperfections and prints. The designers truly thought of “raw” touches in their pieces- Cedric Charlier, the Paris-based designer, made the red & blue threads go out from the black fabric in his dresses; Miuccia Prada mixed vintage silk materials with linen, creating a chaotic “not so perfect” feeling. J.W. Anderson at Loewe and Yohji Yamamoto simply through the mish-mash embroideries and cottons on the model’s bodies. Although it’s not about clean lines, this kind of lightness feels pretty much appealing, isn’t it?

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Ellery

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Celine

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Yohji Yamamoto

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Loewe

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Proenza Schouler

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Prada

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Marques Almeida

Prada’s Feet

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As the SS15 shows go on, we’ve already got our first shoe favourites- this time, it goes to Prada, which brings leather patchworks on her massive clogs, high heeled stompers and granny-like pointy nosed pumps. All worn with a bold coloured socks, these shoes feel like the thing for the next season: 70’s. We are still discussing if they are comfortable… but surely they are real works of art.

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Intrigue. Prada SS15

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Staring at undulating purple sand dunes from the deep aubergine carpeted seating, the audience spent a good half an hour getting spaced out to a sci-fi whirring soundtrack that only built up the anticipation. And then the denim stitched coats came out, with Gemma Ward having an epic appearance. And then the Victoriana skirts. And it all changed into intrigue. Darkly romantic, beautiful with imperfections and shinings of the past without literally referencing tropes of the decade – we are totally convinced that we all need to look at the seventies through Miuccia-tinted glasses. Even these mysterious kimono dresses worn by types like Lara Stone felt slightly perverse but very sublime. Art by Mickalene Thomas.

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