#2015 – Phoebe Philo

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The Designers of 2015 list is topped by Phoebe Philo, of course. The woman who designs for women. The designer, who makes Celine most coveted season-to-season. Although she is praised for reviving minimalism, her fashion dictionary for 2015 is supplied with all –  femininity, sensuality, travel, eclecticism and colour.

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Pre-Fall’15 – Pre-fall at Celine usually means a selection of classical, yet sophisticated clothes kept in toned colours – this year, however, Phoebe had a playful moment, pushing her austere comfort zones.  Hand-embroidered folklore caftans, fringed ponchos and over-sized, burgundy culottes are just few of mentioned must-haves, which make most of Parisian women drool. There was also this chic slip-dress action – worn in a very Celine-ish way, it felt light and slightly infantile, but in a good way.

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AW15 – Phoebe Philo precisely described her woman for fall. “I just want to be a woman“. A woman with ups and downs, which one day is the queen of the world in a bicolor satin dresses and the second day a sophisticated poet or artist in existential, black turtleneck. She wants to be seductive or ooze with charm. But she’s more than attractive – she’s confident, open-minded, smart and knows what’s worth for her. “The best part of this job is finding out more about myself,” Philo said after the show. “It gets deeper and deeper into the roots.” And where those roots went deep today was into a new sense of playfulness. Big, fluffy pom-pons? Otters, foxes and deer as naive animal prints? Duvet coats? “Dressed-up-ness,” Philo called it. “I was never in the head space to approach it before. I find glamour and sexuality awkward. When do they feel authentic? What’s real, what’s not?” Big, rhetorical questions. And Philo addressed them with a collection that, by her own opinion, was a little Latin American. “The blood is hotter,” she said. “The approach is more dramatic.” Of course, Phoebe understands that not every lady feels like going for intense colours. “That’s why there were other times when it was more gritty, more Northern soul, less passionate.

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Resort’16 – It’s a kind of fashion tradition, that we see Celine‘s pre-collection just few weeks before they hit the stores. When Phoebe Philo introduced this rule, the fashion system shifted. No wonder why – when we see the pre-collections six months before they are really available, there is a kind of deja vu feeling later on. There is a lack of excitement. When Philo drops her pre-collection, there is this surprise effect that certainly moves the brand’s customers when they walk into the stores. The resort 2016 is a true pleasure, both for the eye and the desire sense. The collection is a modern version of a French wardrobe – here, you will surely find a striped shirt, high-waisted pants and a raffia tote from the Basque summer adventures. Also, the wardrobe contains an essence of minimal, French glamour, which was strong in the 60’s & 70’s Paris – take the green, Pierre Cardin-like vest or Yves Saint Laurent safari trench-coat, revisited with some arty patterns. There is the feeling of a “woman who travels” in this collection, too – the Babouche slippers convey the oriental mood and the eclectic jewellery brought from Milan’s most edgy flea-markets and antiquaries.

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SS16 – These dresses and coats are what women want today. And the perfect balance between masculine chic and sensual lace makes this collection an updated check-list of what a contemporary woman should have in her wardrobe. “It’s about taking her out of urban life and putting her feet on the sand. It’s where I long to be, more and more.” Although the orange-yellow-blue coloured tent foreshadowed a very bold collection, the designer delivered a discreet, but powerful outing – and, as usually under a tent, we really had sand instead of a tile or a carpet. Which felt so hearty and down-to-earth. Just like the clothes. “I am somebody who is interested in how clothes make us feel,” she said, “and in how we behave in different places. I thought, If you were traveling for a year, what would you need to take with you?” Well, the answer is – the basics. Both, a breezy and warm dress; a light-weight coat; something more intimate and something more built-up. Just like the shoes. My initial reaction to the boots was reserved, however after a moment of reflection I thought it’s a smart move. It depends where you are heading this summer – mountains? Why not. This collection is a spectrum of variations – really, every outfit, in its own way, is good for a specific occasion, creating a beautiful combination of daily essentials. And Phoebe Philo knows, what’s essential. We trust her.

Surely, 2016’s Celine will nail it every single time.

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#2015 – Nicolas Ghesquiere

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Nicolas Ghesquiere is praised by many as the designer, who perfectly highlights the quintessence of a 21st century wardrobe of a woman – his absolutely wearable and hi-techn clothes are all about comfort and a kind of refreshing, neo-eclecticism. His year at Louis Vuitton is also a year full of diversity – definitely, Nicolas and his team represent the French maison as a multi-cultural and stereotype-breaking brand through beautiful pink and afro haired models walking their world-wide runways (we have even came across Palm Springs this year for the Resort 2016 collection)! Thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton has become a label that is more than clothes and a vast range of accessories – now, Louis Vuitton is an open-minded, lifestyle project.

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AW15 – Autumn-winter 2014 was about 70’s. Spring-summer 2015 was looking forward to vintage florals and denim. The autumn-winter 2015 collection was “looking into the future”, as Nicolas Ghesquiere stated backstage. And, it really did. Presented at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, the designer’s muse, Freja Beha, walked down the boldly coloured runway in a fluffy, white shearling coat. Then, the model favourites like Lineisy Montero and Fernanda Ly wore abstract peplum tops, satin suites with logo appliqued t-shirts and lace dresses. Kept in a rich colour palette, Ghesquiere’s conceptual take on the winter wardrobe is both über-feminine and simultaneously casual, noting the luxe sweat-pants and lovely tank-tops.

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Resort’16 – Nicolas Ghesquiere amazed me during his recent Resort collection. Louis Vuitton‘s is the first collection, in which he shows he is really the boss of the brand. The collection, presented in Palm Springs, California, was a sunny blast of fresh, slightly eccentric fashion. Nicolas showcased the silhouettes, that have never been present in his previous shows for the house and Balenciaga. Long, woman-warrior dresses with embellished gems; high-waisted trousers with harness belts; beautifully laser-cut leather jackets, which reminded me of the Victoriana era, brought the mood of Nicolas’ favourite musician, Grimes. But also, some sexy shorts and crop-tops appeared, giving us the vibe of the real all-American summer.  What should I say more? California suits Nicolas Ghesquiere as much as Paris.

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SS16 – This season, Nicolas Ghesquiere really did show his refreshing stance at Vuitton – cyber luxury is the best term that reflects the mix of exclusive logo prints and pink-haired model wearing highly hype (whatever this means nowadays) clothes. Nicolas definitely had Japan on his mind this time – the Harajuku girls with manga-inpired robot tiaras and platform sandals make this collection sharp, but with a slight bit of kawaii flavour coming straightly from Tokyo. However, the collection had something more ethnical, too – note the lovely hand-stitched embroideries on suede biker jackets below. Or the feather details on mesh tank-tops and badass gloves. This how you do ethno, Valentino – keep it discreet, but appropriate. But what really hit me this time, is the amazing talent of fusing fashion history that the designer is known for – the Victorian blouses with leather vests and medieval inspired gowns (Resort 2016 continuation) have never, ever looked so modern as in Nicolas’ vision. These shirts, dresses, motorcycle leggings and, yes, jumpsuits (!) are highly in need. Also, I am drooling over these leather, pleated totes – the beauty of these accessories makes them conceptual objects, rather than just “bags”.

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For Concept 21‘s Instagram (@concept21store, check it out!), I took a few photographs of Ania from Piece of Cake – an adorable cafe with delicious coffee by The Barn and great cheese-cakes, baked every morning by the owners. This time, we styled the new arrivals for Pre-Fall 2015 by No21. The runway mohair sweater and mini-skirt with a bow look beautiful together… just like the quiet patio which is on the back of this lovely place. With brick walls, wild ivy and vintage stools from local flea markets, this patio is a go-to for an ultimate tune-out during the warm days.

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Playful Simplicity. Celine Pre-Fall’15

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There is always a kind of strong anticipation while waiting for the release of Celine’s pre-collections. What Phoebe Philo is going to propose to us this season? Pre-fall at Celine usually means a selection of classical, sophisticated clothes kept in toned colours – this time, Phoebe went slightly more playful, pushing her austere comfort zones. After seeing the AW15 collection, I wasn’t surprised its pre-version will be kind of fun. Hand-embroidered folklore caftans, fringed ponchos and over-sized, burgundy culottes are just few to mention. There was also the slip-dress action – worn in a very Celine-ish way, it felt light and slightly infantile, but in a good way. In overall, a confusion between mature elegance and childish innocence was presemt  in these as usually great clothes. Can’t wait to see it strike the stores!

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Pre-Fall Dibs

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Pre-Fall 2015 approaches with big steps… and that Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquiere outfit lands on the A+ list. Mica Arganaraz photographed by Juergen Teller looks more than chic in this tuxedo blazer, orange turtleneck and normcore-ish pleated polo.

Pre-Fall by Dell’Acqua

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According to Alessandro Dell’Acqua, fashion is chic. And both, at his own label, No21 and Rochas, he shows off with easy tips for Pre-Fall 2015. No21 is more into romantic sportswear, lace and pants. While at Rochas, we’ve got elegance with an edgy twist of embroidery. But whatever they say, this is great. And while in Milan, I am really feeling the Italian vibe…

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Gris. Jacquemus Pre-Fall’15

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Jacquemus gets commercial… and this is his first pre-fall collection. This look-book is not the thing you would expect from Simone Porte – his usually naive, colourful collections are contradictory to this mature, sharp and, as the name suggest, grey-shaded pre-fall. The background seems to be disturbing, too – factories and desolated beach… if talking of the clothes, we can observe exaggerated shoulders, school-uniform lengths and rounded “panels” jutting out of the skirts and tops. Personally, I prefered Jacquemus being more… conceptual? Not that muted?

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Autumn Breeze. Lemaire Pre-Fall’15

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After he left Hermes to concentrate on his own label, Christophe Lemaire is now showing pre-fall, too. The one for 2015 is his first one, and it’s… gorgeous. Presented on the beach in the Southern France, Lemaire dressed the model in his all time signatures – denim jacket and jeans combo, high quality wool & cashmere knitted sweater and the masculine coat. Isn’t that a timeless warbrobe? Also, we’ve saw red in his new designs – it looked dynamic, but at the same time toned and chic. In reality, with the word “chic” you can easily describe the whole collection. It’s absolutely stylish, wearable and perfect for autumn breeze. Biarritz… Firstly published on nuicons.com

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Innovative. Acne Pre-Fall’15

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For pre-fall, Acne thought about experimenting with texture – lace mixed with knittwear, lurex combines with leather, patch-work – all of that brought an interesting fuse. The first look was all about “wild” knitted sweater which totally confused the proportions of the model. Also, there was the cute knitted hat in lilac – a must-have. The signtaure vests and coats are here, too, but in new colours. The only thing that disturbs me are the shoes…

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