No21 Pre-Fall’16 RE-SEE

February 4, 2016August 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Dell’AcQua, the designer behind Milan’s hottest brand N21, knows what will be strongly desired the next season by his diverse clientele. The Italian designer took an interesting twist for pre-fall 2016, refreshing his house codes and bringing new motifs – like the kitty-kat prints and embroideries on knitted, chunky sweaters and mini-bags. Long, grey coats with strips of velvet, silk dresses in military hues, series of light, masculine shirts with lace sleeves and the flawless, parachute maxi dresses in red and green are the total highlights of the season. Also, the shearling jacket, which reinteprets a classical, leather jacket is a favourite of mine after seeing it on the brand’s re-see a week ago. Just like the bow-top cocktail dress , which is an exaggerated symbol of N21, the collection is full of toned, yet cheerful clothes.

All photographs courtesy of Design & Culture by Ed

So Miuccia. Miu Miu Pre-Fall’16

February 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miuccia Prada is the designer, whose signature is so idiosyncratic and specific that you can’t mistake her designs with anybody’s else. Her use of colours, textures and textiles feels always utterly… Miuccia. So no wonder why Miu Miu‘s pre-fall 2016 collection, silently presented in rue Saint Honore store’s second floor, was filled with lace pencil skirts, socks, jewelled velvet pumps and corduroy jackets. It had the classical, Miu Miu girlie chic, which can’t be compared to “ugly beauty” theme which is constantly reinterpreted and channelled at Prada. If talking of shoes, there was the continuation of spring-summer 2016 footwear line, so the romantic and care-free ballerinas, now detailed with embroideries and buckled straps.

Poet’s Romance. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall’16

January 17, 2016February 1, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was appealed to Lorenzo Serafini‘s toned romance at Philosophy already in September – and this moody pre-fall 2016 lookbook wins my heart, even though the brand felt a bit sleepy to me in the past. Feminity, romance and lightness are the stylistic traits of the new creative director of the label, which was found by Alberta Ferretti back in 1984. Before his appointment, Stefano lead the womenswear at Dolce & Gabanna – however I can’t entirely believe in this by looking at those delicate and sensual clothes presented by the brand’s muses, Stella Lucia and Julia Jamin. Initially, the collection is about a masculine, slightly over-sized yet minimal suit – but then, Serafini keeps it more girly, introducing frivolous, lace dresses and crotchet tops. Also, the shearling coat selection is sharp – it seems like the season’s must-have piece will come from Philosophy.

Nature Force and Fiorucci. Valentino Pre-Fall’16

January 16, 2016January 22, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Valentino‘s pre-fall 2016 collection delivered by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli feels too good to be just a pre-collection. It has about 85 looks, and each of them tells a different story. The first series of looks were all about a pictorial, vivid scenario of a volcanic eruption – meticulously embroidered mini-dresses were styled with refreshing floral maxi-skirts and electric, blue high-knee boots. The force of nature, which was embraced by the designers this season was continued in the most romantic way – using the traditional, Italian way of fur-painting, the mink coats were blooming with delicate, white flowers. The Astrakhan skirt with fluffy cotton-flowers was genius, too, when styled with a classy, soft knit. However, the collection had its other side – the aim was, to make it span the worlds. The inspiration, as Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo explained in the showroom set up in Andy Warhol’s Factory in New York, was Elio Fiorucci. The Italian designer, who died last year, was focusing his fashion on influences which came from everywhere. “He was local and global,” said Chiuri, “and we think that fits with the way we work.” Moreover, the designers were drawn to Fiorucci for the 70’s lifestyle he represented in fashion, and his joy of discovery. I must admit, it was really hard to choose only a few, representative looks from this beautiful collection – so here are my definite favourites.

And if you are not familiar with Fiorucci’s pre-Instagram fashion…

He was the first designer to dress Madonna.

His work was captured the essence of Italian opulence and New York’s Warholian energy.

Elio used to have the most provoking advertisements in the industry – sexuality was his favourite element to play with.

Kaleidoscopic Florence. Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall’16

January 14, 2016January 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Massimo Giorgetti’s playful vision at Emilio Pucci keeps getting better and better with each season. The pre-fall 2016 collection is his third for the Florence-based, heritage brand, and it already feels like he has been at the house for a prolific period of time – this young, Italian designer mixes the signature Emilio prints in such a care-free, yet vibrant way. Massimo focused on reinterpreting the Pucci codes in a contemporary, slightly humorous way. The silk pants and shirts in blue-feather prints; bold lips pattern, which made the pleated skirts look, oh yes, bellissimo. The skiwear roots were revamped this season and hopefully, it will again be a game-stopper on the Courchevel route – modern V-neck knits, “kaleidoscope” jackets and boldly coloured fur coats looked luxurious, but not too excessive. Forget the image of a fancy lady with a freezing dog on the slopes. One thing’s sure – Giorgetti and his team at Emilio Pucci are moving in the right direction, making the brand’s season-to-season outings feel unexpected, lifey and beautifully eclectic.