70’s Twist. Jonathan Saunders AW15

February 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Twisted 70’s. Jonathan Saunders falls into his routine, bringing nearly same prints each winter. Turtlenecks, A-skirts, slightly flared trousers – it all seems to be an old topic. Why do some designers always go into “now I am all about 60’s, but next season I am all about 70’s”? Yes, I understand those were important periods for fashion, but come on – they are constantly repeating. In reality, this collection by Saunders reminds me of Miu Miu Resort 2015 and many other 70’s inspired presentations. Even if we have all those fun and bold prints – Jonathan makes me yawn.

Jane Eyre and Marimekko. Suno AW15

February 15, 2015February 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

What happens when Jane Eyre’s drama meets Ikea-like Marimekko floral prints? Then, Suno gives a tip. Helena Severin, which opened and closed the show, looked both awesome in the splitted skirt and brocade shirt-dress. Stripes went through beautifully embroidered roses while boots and socks nicely contrasted with over-sized silhouettes. The total favourite look is the one with the slim V-neck dress – attractive, but relaxed. And so Suno duo Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis must be congratulated on their main idea this season, not only for directing themselves to this interesting theme of two strictly different things, but also for attacking it with real vigour, and from unexpected angles.

Stella Jean Entertainment

February 6, 2015February 1, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although being relatively new to the scene, Stella Jean, the Italian-Haitian designer who is one of Milan’s rising stars, has already found her own highly recognizable fashion recipe. Bold prints, optimistic attitude. That’s the label the Milanese women wear.

Joan D’Arc. Givenchy SS15

October 3, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Well. Riccardo Tisci AGAIN comes back to his roots, where he was all about stripes and graphical prints. And the harsh sexuality. I hoped this will never come back… but it did. The summer collection, which is totally not for summer, is all about leather, Jesus, heavy metal and, as Riccardo said, Joan d’Arc. Maybe there was something about Joan d’Arc in this collection… the provocation? The over-use of crosses and Christian symbols? I think this Madonna-ish trend died together with punk. The collection felt so, so weak, even dough the embroideries are certainly breath-taking. The collection didn’t introduce nothing new- it made woman look over-sexy and over-bossy. The last few seasons were pretty good, but this broke the timeline. And seeing the Kim and Kanye family ‘like all the time’ during the show looks seriously faux pas. We need a fresh breath, Tisci.

70’s Suits Come Back

August 13, 2014August 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marni

There are these awkward fashion moments, when ugly and kitsch things come back with a huge boom. Like for example the printed, colourful, so-70’s suits. Covered with flowers, veggies, twirls and other super optimistic patterns, the nightmare of kitsch appears more than once for Resort 2015. The kaleidoscope of loud, proud, floral and psychedelic print pantsuits by Miu Miu, Marni, Louis Vuitton and Mary Katrantzou will try to encourage us, to wear these the next spring. For now, I feel a bit scared. But we must be all brave.