Leisure and Athleisure. Emilio Pucci AW16

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Milan is in the spotlight for the last, few seasons – it’s the refreshing time, when the big houses are revisited by younger, talented designers who are likely to make the brands more commerce-wise, and contemporary. Although this can’t be fully said in case of Alessandro Michele at Gucci, who looks back at the 16th century art and 70’s legacy, Massimo Giorgetti at Emilio Pucci totally matches this description. His runway debut in September was slammed by the critics, as it felt too busy with confusing embroideries and senseless layers. However, the autumn-winter 2016 outing is much better, and not only because the designer listened to his own, creative instincts – it reflects the Pucci soul, but in today’s world. Originally, Emilio Pucci focused on lounge-wear, rather than on athleisure – but Massimo smartly touched the topic of skiing. A score in the bull’s eye, if speaking of all the zip-neck velvet pullovers and colorful après-ski pieces. Really, the skiing market is a sad place in the fashion industry, and by showing a collection filled with lovely winter wear, Pucci surely gains a clientele for the next season in this field. This collection also proves that Giorgetti feels more freedom, when using the signature, Pucci kaleidoscope prints – they are playfully exposed on his experimental silhouettes we know from his namesake label, MSGM.

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Kaleidoscopic Florence. Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall’16

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Massimo Giorgetti’s playful vision at Emilio Pucci keeps getting better and better with each season. The pre-fall 2016 collection is his third for the Florence-based, heritage brand, and it already feels like he has been at the house for a prolific period of time – this young, Italian designer mixes the signature Emilio prints in such a care-free, yet vibrant way. Massimo focused on reinterpreting the Pucci codes in a contemporary, slightly humorous way. The silk pants and shirts in blue-feather prints; bold lips pattern, which made the pleated skirts look, oh yes, bellissimo. The skiwear roots were revamped this season and hopefully, it will again be a game-stopper on the Courchevel route – modern V-neck knits, “kaleidoscope” jackets and boldly coloured fur coats looked luxurious, but not too excessive. Forget the image of a fancy lady with a freezing dog on the slopes. One thing’s sure – Giorgetti and his team at Emilio Pucci are moving in the right direction, making the brand’s season-to-season outings feel unexpected, lifey and beautifully eclectic.

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