Ethereal Punks. Ann Demeulemeester SS15

September 27, 2014January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sebastien Meunier, whose the second season at Ann Demeulemeester feels like a vocabulary of the house’s heritage, was shown yesterday at Paris Fashion Week. The clothes were black & white, mesh and romantic fabrics were seen. The models had those punk-ish hair, but mostly it all felt silent and ethereal. In other words, it feels like if Ann was still present in the house, but with lack of progress. Beacaues that’s metaphorically true- Sebastien uses old house codes and hits, just to make it all more “commercial” and too Demeulemeester. The collection is not bad- but it feels like if the new creative director didn’t really try that hard as he should to make this Belgian brand be loved and respected. Hope the next season will be better…

Punk. Rodarte SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kate and Laura Mulleavy came back to their extraordinary roots, where punk and spirit plays a role! For Summer, the sisters did a major work. Their concept? Bring everything, that Rodarte woman is made of. Embroidery. Serenity. Punk. Piercing? Yes. The metallic half circles were glued to model’s eyebrows, to make a big statement in NYFW’s beauty. If talking of the clothes, we had every Rodarte girl- from the Harley Davidson gang, up to a sea siren and the downton NY babe. I am simply stunned with all of that! It simply takes all the words away. Simply see those Lea Colombo photographs from backstage.

La Dame. Undercover AW14

February 27, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jun Takahashi’s dreamy AW14 collection for Undercover yesterday got really stuck in my mind. ‘Once upon a time, there was a Parisian dame, which wore crowns made by the Japanese hairstylist, Kamo. She was a queen, but in her mind. The dame wore bourgeois coats with Chinese porcelain print, long gowns in royal colours… She didn’t live in a queen’s palace, but in small apartment on Le Marais. Our dame never gave damn and always wore what she felt like, in very slouchy way.’ Jun Takahashi is the Asian version of Vivienne Westwood- he also has this punk attitude as she… And this Undercover collection is just damn awesome!

What’s Hot (14.9.13)

Image | September 14, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tuscany: Fausto Puglisi X Ungaro

August 18, 2013August 18, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

I am crazy in love with Emanuel Ungaro by Fausto Puglissi at the current moment! While you live in Italy for two weeks, you are like getting the idea of kitsch in fashion- Dolce Gabbana is all about tradition; Moschino is aristocracy; Prada is the new modernity; and Fausto Puglisi is a new comer of Italian fashion that is really messing around with his punk checks, embellished caps and leopard printed sexy dresses that are favourites of Coco Rocha. I was long observing this young designer, and after seeing the AW13 collection for dying label, Ungaro, I feel he, and few more young Italian designers will be leading the next era in Milan fashion! As I wrote, Emanuel Ungaro for a period of time s really dying. About a Lindsay Lohan catastrophy and lost of Avenue Montaigne boutique in Paris, this label needs a rescue boat in killing fashion world… So here it is- Puglisi!
As you see, the pieces I saw in the showroom here in Tuscany look very exciting and sexy… The prints, golden embroideries, in other words luxury! Fausto Puglisi is the name that is certainly one to watch, and Ungaro will again shock the world! 😄😄😄

Here something more about this talented designer! “Fausto Puglisi was born in Messina and started his carreer exporting his talent to the USA. When he was eighteen, he moved to New York and started collaborating with worldwide known stylists and photographers. His outfits gained great success and many Hollywood celebrities have been dressing Fausto Puglisi outfits at the most important events. Fausto Puglisi loves visual culture. He is inspired by the mix between the high culture and popular elements and the result is a really complex brand identity: heroic Sicily, Italian neo-realism movies, American star system, Roman gladiators, modern architecture and the richness of the Mediterranean Baroque. His geometric creations express a rich and defined style, focusing on color contrasts and embroideries research. His clothes embody an ideal of beauty based on strength, to design a contemporary glamour. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana appreciate Fausto Puglisi’s talent and asked him to be part of their “Young Designers” project, that gave him a great visibility inside their concept store Spiga2 in Milan. Fausto Puglisi dresses have been worn during important events like the Super Bowl 2012 halftime show and his company is fast growing among International buyers and press, thanks to this Sicilian designer’s determination and commitment.”