Sultry, defiant punk girls walked down the aisles of St. Barts Church in the heart of New York – it’s visible from the first sight that Alexander Wang pushed hard to provoke. But did he achieve his aim? Not really, even though the view of the Byzantine cupola was breath-taking. But lets not lie – in the Instagram age, it’s hard to shock with both, the clothes, and the venue. And if talking of the clothes, it’s visible that Wang again feels his NYC freedom he had before his three-year Balenciaga tenure – the looks ooze with “I don’t give a f***” attitude from every angle. Mohair cardigans and leg-giving mini-skirts smell with teen spirit, but not with Kurt Cobain – it’s more about dressing up as a “punk” girl of Sky Ferreira origins and putting on your Supreme beanie (I nearly thought the designer collaborated with Supreme on these “Strict”, “Tender” and “Girls” slogans). But what really described the Wang-gang girl were the cannabis-motif embroideries on patent white dresses. This felt both kinda youthful and Tumblr. However, I doubt a lot of 17’s and 18’s can afford this “high fashion” stuff.
Chic Punk. Haider Ackermann AW15
Haider Ackermann’s latest presentation for fall exuded chic and rock ‘n’ roll at the same time – the models red pussy bow shirts, pirate jackets, safety pins in their hair and leather trousers. Basically, that was a collection full of cool Haider signatures. The clothes were slim, but chaotic at the same time thanks to the mastered layering; the embroidery, which seemed refreshing for Ackermann was all about metallic stationery and print mash-up. “I wanted colour, I wanted to have fun” was how the designer described his collection. Definitely, that’s a go-to collection for a Parisian party with loud music, alcohol and cigarettes.
Le Depot. Vetements AW15
Demna Gvasalia invited the guests to a 70’s famous, gay club “Le Depot”, where his fall collection was presented. The Maison Margiela alumn nailed it, just like last season – the clothes had this “whatever” attitude shouting all over them; it’s rare in Paris nowadays to see such an alternative fashion show – just like Jacquemus, Gvasalia brings old fresh mood in interesting venues. If talking of the clothes, we can observe two major things going on in here. First, the over-size trend which seems to be a signature for this brand. Second, the “Sapeurs-Pompiers” and “Sécurité” T-shirts, which looked like they might’ve been brought out in response to the Charlie Hebdo attacks that terrified the world earlier this year. And, of course it’s impossible not to mention other pieces – the exaggerated aviator jacket, the patent leather XXL boots, the mohair mini-skirts and the motor-bad-girl jacket.
But why was the show presented in “Le Depot”?“ “In Paris all of the good clubs shut down in the 70s,” said one of the designer after the show. The club culture that once gave birth to subversive subcultures might be dead, but Vetements team are ready to inject the city’s fashion scene with a punk spirit. There was no better place for it, than a red light-lit sex club. “I feel like there is a new energy in here. We want to push it – not necessarily to bring anything back, but to give it a new life. Things are still quite dusty, old and conservative.” You better keep your mind on this brand.
Comme to me
To Meadham Kirchhoff
I need to confess something. When I heard the news, that Meadham Kirchhoff won’t show it’s AW15 collections becaues their “debts have caught up”, I nearly started to cry. That might surprise you- right, I never really wrote anything special about Meadham Kirchhoff. On my blog, I post only this what I like and feel- and Meandham Kirchhoff’s style is not always on my taste radar. But I always, always observe their collections with some kind of amusement and respect. They were, and are, so brave. In the sea of minimalism, normcore or 10,000 euro Valentino dresses, it’s hard to have a label with clothes which do not match any of those three categories. Well, only if you are some kind of Versace. In reality, Kirchhoff’s pieces are pricey, but they are as beautifully embroidered, as for example Erdem. Then, another problem strikes. “The way the industry works, you’re driven to do all these grandiose shows, all these things that are incredibly expensive,” Benjamin Kirchhoff said. “and then one day, the sponsorship runs out. You’re on your own.” Meanwhile, Edward Meadham pointed to the struggle to fulfill orders for stockists: “It’s always seemed like, ‘How do we do this? How do we keep up?’” In other words, Meadham Kirchhoff didn’t have trouble until they became an REALLY independent label.
But what’s interesting, is the fact that Meadham Kirchhoff is seriously loved by Londoners. They are so true, real. I think it is the last big something after Vivienne Westwood’s SEX shop and Alexander McQueen years in London. It’s punk, it’s cool, it’s something buzzy and fuzzy. The glitter jumble; the ribbons attached to every pair of boots; the tampon tree at SS15 show venue. Kitsch is sick, but in both meanings at Meadham Kirchhoff. Well, what can I say more. I just wish them a bright future (and this type of talent always finds it’s right path). The rumour has it, that possibly Benjamin and Edward are going to takeover Schiapparelli which was suddenly abandoned by Marco Zanini. And that would be EPIC. I also see them at Oscar del la Renta, if not that boring Nina Ricci guy.
Y-A-W-N to fashion without Meadham Kirchhoff.