Subtle. The Row Resort 2018

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Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen‘s resort 2018 collection is distinctively The Row. The designers’ subtle minimalism appears in every single piece in that short, black-and-white look-book. From a cashmere, patchworked knit to a taffeta gown with bell sleeves (note that it’s in delightful shade of pink in reality), that’s a very luxe, yet understated wardrobe for the upcoming spring.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (feautruing Cy Twombly’s artwork).

So Phoebe. Céline Resort 2018

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The rumours of Phoebe Philo leaving Céline are slowly, slowly becoming a fact. Let’s have a moment for pause.

It’s still not clear, whether spring-summer 2018 was Philo’s last collection for the house. But the resort 2018 is a prove that ‘Célinism’ is a self-reliant, important fashion term on its own rights. It’s a kind of secular belief in terms of aesthetical expression . What does it mean? Sensual sophistication (the dresses with lace inserts). Timeless and seasonless items (the trench coat; the big bag). Empowering (over-sized suits). Women, who trusted – and will continue to trust – Phoebe  know the principles of Célinism very well.

P.s. I really feel sorry for the designer, who will take her place. What a great challenge will it be to do something ‘better’? And not just to prolong her minimalist trademark? For now, it’s whispered that Philo is heading to Burberry, where Christopher Bailey has departed yesterday after a 17-year-long tenure. If that’s true – we will follow.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Ride. Miu Miu Resort 2018

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Just in time for the haute couture week in Paris, Miuccia Prada invited her guests (note Sofia Coppola’s The Beguilded cast, Kirsten Dunst and Elle Fanning, in the f-row) to the Miu Miu club, an ultra-glamorous, one-night-only venue. For resort 2018, Miu Miu girls are hot automobile riders, who wear green intarsia coats, striped jumpsuits and day-dresses in vichy checks. If somebody’s not full throttle into fast car rider theme, the designer has tropical prints and masculine, woollen coats in her latest offering. Bum-bags (surprisingly seen in Miuccia’s menswear collection at Prada a few weeks ago) are evidently having a loud revival this season, whether you’re having a problem with that, or not.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Commedia Dell’Arte. Nina Ricci Resort 2018

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Guillaume Henry is getting better and better with every season at Nina Ricci. The labels’ autumn-winter 2017 collection presented a few months ago was, for me, one of the season’s biggest highlights. Today, we’re seeing the resort 2018 look-book, which is equally exciting. The colours! The silhouettes! The creative director’s main reference was commedia dell’arte – it’s a one-of-a-kind, Nina Ricci take on Harlequin, Pierrot and Columbine. “It’s in my blood to be bourgeois; it’s just a matter of being fun about it,” Henry explained. Indeed – canary-yellow fur coat and bumpy mini-dress, exaggerated volume of shoulders, fluffy pompoms on flats and huge collars bring aristocratic, even theatrical drama. What’s even more impressive about this collection is the way how Guillaume handled the theme. Those Harlequin-inspired shirts and coats don’t look ridiculous, but unbelievably refined. Also, greet the pistachio-green Tambour, a bag resembling a miniature drum. Genius.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.