So Phoebe. Céline Resort 2018


The rumours of Phoebe Philo leaving Céline are slowly, slowly becoming a fact. Let’s have a moment for pause.

It’s still not clear, whether spring-summer 2018 was Philo’s last collection for the house. But the resort 2018 is a prove that ‘Célinism’ is a self-reliant, important fashion term on its own rights. It’s a kind of secular belief in terms of aesthetical expression . What does it mean? Sensual sophistication (the dresses with lace inserts). Timeless and seasonless items (the trench coat; the big bag). Empowering (over-sized suits). Women, who trusted – and will continue to trust – Phoebe  know the principles of Célinism very well.

P.s. I really feel sorry for the designer, who will take her place. What a great challenge will it be to do something ‘better’? And not just to prolong her minimalist trademark? For now, it’s whispered that Philo is heading to Burberry, where Christopher Bailey has departed yesterday after a 17-year-long tenure. If that’s true – we will follow.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Ride. Miu Miu Resort 2018

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Just in time for the haute couture week in Paris, Miuccia Prada invited her guests (note Sofia Coppola’s The Beguilded cast, Kirsten Dunst and Elle Fanning, in the f-row) to the Miu Miu club, an ultra-glamorous, one-night-only venue. For resort 2018, Miu Miu girls are hot automobile riders, who wear green intarsia coats, striped jumpsuits and day-dresses in vichy checks. If somebody’s not full throttle into fast car rider theme, the designer has tropical prints and masculine, woollen coats in her latest offering. Bum-bags (surprisingly seen in Miuccia’s menswear collection at Prada a few weeks ago) are evidently having a loud revival this season, whether you’re having a problem with that, or not.


Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Commedia Dell’Arte. Nina Ricci Resort 2018

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Guillaume Henry is getting better and better with every season at Nina Ricci. The labels’ autumn-winter 2017 collection presented a few months ago was, for me, one of the season’s biggest highlights. Today, we’re seeing the resort 2018 look-book, which is equally exciting. The colours! The silhouettes! The creative director’s main reference was commedia dell’arte – it’s a one-of-a-kind, Nina Ricci take on Harlequin, Pierrot and Columbine. “It’s in my blood to be bourgeois; it’s just a matter of being fun about it,” Henry explained. Indeed – canary-yellow fur coat and bumpy mini-dress, exaggerated volume of shoulders, fluffy pompoms on flats and huge collars bring aristocratic, even theatrical drama. What’s even more impressive about this collection is the way how Guillaume handled the theme. Those Harlequin-inspired shirts and coats don’t look ridiculous, but unbelievably refined. Also, greet the pistachio-green Tambour, a bag resembling a miniature drum. Genius.


Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Stay or Go. Rosie Assoulin Resort 2018


Whether you’re staying at home or going out – Rosie Assoulin‘s collections are always a pretty good idea. For resort 2018, the designer has a truly inviting offering of clothes you want to wear, when everything starts to bloom and you feel like living again. From the spring-ready green coat and adorable bucket bags to pink overalls and striped pajama pants in navy, everything is insanely beautiful and most of all, wearable. Off to your local bodega or a gallery opening, these clothes perfectly balance between utility and this kind of arty edginess (take the fluroscent pleated gown, for instance). If you’re not entirely the ‘active’ type, no problem – Rosie has the super-slouchy knit awaiting your cozy day at home. Bon weekender!


Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Edouard Manet’s ‘Luncheon on the Grass’).

I’m Mrs Power. Thom Browne Resort 2018


Thom Browne does best tailoring-with-a-twist in New York, that’s sure. For resort 2018, however, the designer decided to leave surrealism for the main collection and rather focused on some of his most empowering looks to date. Those intriguingly cut suits, mid-lenght pleated skirts, cropped pants are elevating the meaning of corporate dress-code to another dimension. Crisp, white shirt is Browne’s brand essential, so no wonder why nearly every single look has something to do with it. But the Thom Browne woman isn’t only a lover of not-that-ordinary uniforms. Let’s not forget it’s a resort. A splash of yellow, blue and red is warmly welcomed in form of shirtdresses and light blazers. The designer has your back for black-tie events, too: PVC pencil skirt with a matching jacket; trompe l’oeil gown with over-sized shoulders; remarkably big, fur coat in deep black (of course). Love it all.


Collage by Edward Kanarecki.