In the past, Céline wasn’t the same Céline we know today. In 2017, the label is associated as an epitome of minimal, edgy chic. Actually, Phoebe Philo‘s spring-summer 2018 endeavour was to revive the Céline woman of the 70s, 80s. Those were the pre-Juergen Teller times, when the brand’s campaigns were presenting beige-loving, bourgeoisie ladies whom you would rather see on the crème de la crème of Parisian streets – the Avenue Foch.
Does this woman exist in 2017? Well, she’s rather carrying a croco Birkin, than a Céline plastic tote or, let’s say, orthopedic, rubber sneakers. But for Philo, it wasn’t about trying to do something forced or pretentious. Eccentric, charming, yet nonchalant – those are the words that well define this collection, which has both, an embellished sequin evening dress with a turtleneck and a thick-wool poncho for weekend escapes. “It certainly felt personal“, the designer told the press after her show. She surely meant that the line-up wasn’t meant to be single-themed, but more of an intimate, very elusive vision. Whether in an all-beige suit or a boldly striped gown, carrying a blanket or dressed head-to-toe in white, the Céline woman is definitely not unequivocal in her style choices. Just like fashion in the past that was free of ‘influencers’, all that social media dictatorship and trend rushing. It was about experimenting and having that ‘spark’ in your look. You had it, or not. I fear not everyone will be able to pull off these looks – they really do need that personality, not the wallet. But that’s the reason why Céline stays one of the most sophisticated labels existing today.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.