For her resort 2027 collection for Chloé, Chemena Kamali turned to the archives – but not those of Gaby Aghion or Karl Lagerfeld. Instead, she looked to the late 1990s, when Stella McCartney arrived at the house with an unprecedented sense of youthful confidence. Back then, the British designer transformed Chloé into the go-to destination for women seeking a great Savile Row–esque suit that could just as easily be thrown over a frivolous lingerie top. The echoes of that masculine-feminine flirtation are back, and it’s hard not to fall for the lacey dresses, satin jackets, and ballet skirts, which never veer into saccharine territory because they’re grounded by washed denim, robust furs, vintage-inspired hardware, and sharp, down-to-business tailoring. Kamali’s work carries a natural feminine energy that’s perfectly in tune with Chloé’s enduring charm, and it makes you want to be that girl – no matter the season.
For resort 2027, Magda Butrym reframes sensual power through big-time femininity and soft intimacy. Not a character to be imagined, but a woman already living. In a moment when notions of strength are being redefined, Magda proposes an alternative vision of female empowerment: one rooted not in performance or conquest, but in self-possession, intimacy, and the rituals of everyday life.
The collection draws inspiration from the elusive photographic oeuvre of Teresa Tyszkiewicz, the Polish artist who, throughout her practice, created erotically charged self-portraits depicting a self-aware woman at the height of her power. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Tyszkiewicz used photography – alongside her experimental film work – as a tool for self-analysis and the construction of a private mythology. Immersed in domestic surroundings and fully embracing her feminine instincts, free from shame or concern for external judgment, Tyszkiewicz embodied a formidable presence that resonates deeply with Magda’s vision of designing for women. The female experience so poignantly evoked by Tyszkiewicz became a powerful source of inspiration for the resort 2027 collection – and its elegantly fetishistic undercurrents.
The lookbook presents an array of feminine codes in which contradictions are celebrated as markers of real attitude. The resort 2027 woman envisioned by Magda can be both regal and nonchalant, pristine and distressed, covered and exposed. A white ruched dress emanates sexual confidence, while tailored jackets with dropped waists and exaggerated shoulders evoke a masculine stance. Signature hourglass silhouettes, which make a woman appear impeccably dressed with effortless ease, meet flapper-inspired shapes that recall the spirit of the Roaring Twenties. Bustiers are hyper-exaggerated, challenging conventional notions of proportion, while plays on transparency render sensuality suggestive and unspoken rather than explicit. A floral apron-housecoat layered over a lace-trimmed slip dress serves as an ode to a woman at work – dressed functionally and pragmatically, yet fully attentive to and embracing of her feminine nature.
This is an ode to the idea of domestic chic – and to the growing insistence that the ever-evolving codes of femininity, emotional complexity, and the beauty of homemaking are not antithetical to power, but central to it.
CREDITS: Creative Director Magda Butrym / Photographer Mark Kean / Video Tatiana + Karol / Stylist Jacob K / Talents Apolline, Alaina Rae / Casting Director Julia Lange / Make Up Artist Lucy J. Bridge / Hair Stylist Tom Wright / Nails Marzena Kanclerska / Stylist Assistant Ioana Ivan / Set Design Anna Szczęsny / Art Coordinator Edward Kanarecki
Valentino and teen-inspired coolness aren’t exactly two concepts you’d expect to find in the same sentence, but Alessandro Michele somehow makes the combination feel entirely natural. The designer has long been fond of punctuating his own eclectic wardrobe with a slogan cap – often sourced from Idea Ltd – and for resort 2027, he decided to bring the trick to Valentino.
The result? His “Villain Teen” caps look surprisingly chic paired with heavily embroidered jackets worn over ripped jeans, floor-sweeping retro dresses, heirloom furs, and all the glorious shoulder-padded excess of 1980s glamorama. You can easily imagine the Valentino girl and boy spending their parents’ money on antiques at Paul Bert Serpette, draped in their grandmother’s jewels, wrapped in bourgeois silk scarves, and indulging in a touch of aristocratic cosplay.
These are modern-day villains, but the kind who know how to have fun. The cap is the crucial ingredient: it stops everything from feeling like costume and makes it read as genuine personal style. Michele has been gradually loosening Valentino’s collar with each outing, and this feels like the most convincing expression of that approach yet. It’s a direction he should continue to pursue.
Balenciaga has released its resort 2027 lookbook. It’s Pierpaolo Piccioli’s strongest work for the house so far – which doesn’t necessarily mean it’s good. Maybe he’s getting there. But I still think he needs to decide what exactly he wants his Balenciaga to be, because at this point, I’m still clueless.
The collection spans more than 80 looks, photographed inside Cristóbal Balenciaga’s couture salon. The space itself carries enormous symbolic weight, especially considering it was Demna who restored, reclaimed, and reactivated it not a while ago. Using it this early in Piccioli’s tenure feels almost too obvious. Rather than communicating a convincing new chapter, the setting keeps pulling the conversation back to the previous one. Visually, it feels less like a fresh beginning and more like reheated nachos. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki. Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.
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Tory Burch‘s woman belongs to a distinctly New York species: one part Joel Meyerowitz photograph, one part Substack phenomenon. She’s a fabulously eccentric Big Apple fixture who looks to Amy Fine Collins and Leandra Medine for contemporary inspiration, while keeping one eye firmly on Claire McCardell and the generation of 1940s womenswear designers who helped define the language of American style.
That blend of wit, intelligence, and easy elegance runs throughout Burch’s resort 2027 collection. The clothes are full of charming surprises, from a wallpaper-print raincoat to a beautiful dress with a faux-dickey neckline that makes it look as though a beloved sleeveless T-shirt has been casually slipped underneath. The styling never feels forced; rather, it captures the kind of woman who gets dressed for her own amusement first and everyone else’s admiration second.
And that cropped brown animal-print jacket? Future vintage, without question.
Design & Culture by Ed 