Rome Addresses

Planning a trip to Rome? You might want to take a look at the addresses I’ve discovered in this truly magical city.

Trattoria Al Moro is a proper, Roman trattoria with wood panels from the 1920’s, a very Italian, beautifully overcharged interior, and a chic ambience. Their daily specials are always a must, just like the signature Al Moro pasta. For the dessert take the profiteroles. You will ask for more, I tell you.

Vicolo delle Bollette 13

Origami is the best kept secret of the most stylish, Roman women. This unfussy boutique sells clothes of own production – think turtleneck dresses in geometric prints, gorgeous basket totes, loosely fitted cardigans, everything kept shades of ochre, rust and lilac – in very reasonable, affordable prices. The historic, wooden ceiling is an impressive addition to this spot.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 144

Dana is a store located in a former church. Even the confessional stayed, and now it’s used as a dressing room. We’re in Rome! Independent, small brands from Rome are sold here.

Via del Pellegrino 167

I bet you won’t eat a better pizza in Rome. Pizzeria Da Baffetto is a simple, compact white-tiled restaurant specializing in Roman-style, thin and crispy pizzas. They are so, so good in here. If you don’t want to wait in a line (and they get really big) better come for (early) lunch at around noon.

Via del Governo Vecchio 114

Laity Mbaye’s Metissage atelier. While this man will surely hypnotize you with his look that is a beautiful balance between Italian tailoring and Senegalese origins, please do check out the garments he designs himself and the hand-picked artisanal accessories he sells at his store.

Largo del Pallaro 18

Lou Lou sells curated, very refined brands that all share a poetic, dark aesthetic. Uma Wang, Reinhard Park, Guidi, Sara Lanzi are just some of the labels you will find on the racks of this eclectically furnished store. If you’re looking for a gift, check out their fragrance display filled with niche, Italian names that specialise in true, olfactory experiences.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 113

Oh, and Prada‘s huge store that’s just across the Spanish Steps. I mean, how can you not go inside? Some of the leather goods and perfumes are exclusives available only here in Rome.

Via dei Condotti 89

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Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Sonny

Sonny is the place where you will drink the Instagram-famous Golden Latte – which, in fact, is a combination of turmeric, lemon, ginger and chamomile. The taste can be described as some sort of spicy rhapsody. And the energy boost might be compared to a cup of good espresso! Other than that, Sonny is a daytime place, favoured by the Copenhagen locals. The menu contains regulars, like avocado toast, but not only. Try their signature Sonny Salad, full of vitamins from fresh and crispy ingredients. The Spicy Tuna is a semi-sandwich, which I found especially nutritious. The interior, which is quintessentially Copenhagen – beautiful details, lots of vintage furniture, cozy seatings – is a perfect backdrop for lunch.

Rådhusstræde 5 / Copenhagen

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Sasaya

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Ok, let’s make this clear: Sasaya is the best Japanese restaurant in Berlin. It’s just so pure in taste, and so Japanese in everything, from the simple interior to the way the asparagus tempura is served on ceramics plates (which are sold together with delightful pottery and rare sake next to the restaurant space). Sasaya doesn’t only serve sushi – which is perfect – but as well other traditional dishes and tastes like the tsukemono (pickled vegetables), the takana (fried vegetables), dashi broth or the kukiwakame (seaweed). The gyoza stick is a great addition to your portion of maki and nigiri, while green tea cake with matcha macchiato is an ideal desert (at least for me!). Really, Sasaya won’t disappoint those who look for Japanese cuisine, not some kind of philadelphia-cheee-stuffed hybrid.

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Eating in Lisbon

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Lisbon is not only great art, mind-blowing architecture and stylish concept stores. It’s also all about food! And really good food, I should admit. And no, the don’t only eat baskets of freshly picked clementines here (as pictured above) – even though a fresh juice made of them is an actual seventh wonder. Here’s my short guide around some of my favourite eating spots and dinner places in the Portuguese capital.

If you’re planning your dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro, read carefully the following: beware of the queue! No reservations, which is usual for the best restaurants in Lisbon. But before you induldge yourself in all those spider crabs, razor clams, tiger prawns and goose barnacles, you’ve got to wait for about half to one hour outside. No worries – they serve beer for the patient ones. And the waiting is really worth it.

Av. Almirante Reis N.1

After an exhausting excursion to Alfama’s most important churches and a few hours of walking down and up the hilly streets, Pois Café is the right place to take a break. The interior is an eclectic mix of brick, vintage furniture and local artists’ paintings. Food is simple, but tasty – take the plate with mozzarella bufala or the passion fruit cheesecake. A fast brunch / lunch in an intriguing spot.

R. de São João da Praça 93-95

A Chevicheria is Lisbon’s hottest dining place. The huge octopus hanging above the bar tempts to enter and try Kiko Martins’ signature seafood menu. Whether it’s a tuna ceviche with radish or St. Jacob’s mussels, you won’t be dissapointed with the restaurant, that’s for sure. Again, no reservations, possibility of waiting in a queue. But the locals know what’s good!

Rua Dom Pedro V129

Morgadinha de Alfama is not a busy, fancy kind of place, but it has one of the most romantic patios in town. And delightful tapas! It’s especially refreshing when the temperature rises and you can hide hear from the scorching sun.

Beco do Alfurja 2

Everybody heard of Time Out Market in Lisbon. You can eat anything here, from the best pata negra ham and fried squids to soaps in the most stylish packages at A Vida Portuguesa corner. The food here is good, true, but the prices are slightly too high. Also, don’t expect Berlin’s market coziness – Time Out is much more commercialised. But the flower shop located inside is a total must visit – even if you can’t buy a bouquet due to approaching airplane travel. Just beautiful.

Av. 24 de Julho 49

In case of traditional Portuguese patisseries, Padaria e Pastelarias Panificação R. Sao Roque is unrivalled. Try tapas served in a more contemporary manner at Tapisco. I hope that the next time I’m in Lisbon, I will discover equally delicious places. Any recommendations, maybe?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

July in Berlin

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What’s better than spending a rainy July day on visiting your favourite Berlin spots? Going for the sale-season triathlon? Discovering new designers? Induldging yo’self in tuna tataki? I think nothing can beat those…

Few days ago, The Store and Berlin-based label Ottolinger launched an exclusive collection of tie-dyed t-shirts and sweatshirts in all tones of rusty-brown, illustrated by the brand’s friend and collaborator @ruffiodoom (Instagram nickname). Also, the paint-covered accessories caught my eye – choose between the customized Nike AF1 sneakers and the tiny-miney hand-bags with souvenir charms (you know, the tourist ones, like the ‘I love Italy’ trash) attached. One-off DIY feeling of Ottolinger is Christa Bösch’s and Cosima Gadient’s signature style, perfectly fitting Berlin’s current creative energy.

Torstraße 1 (enter through Soho House Hotel). More about The Store here.

Fiona Bennett‘s store is both a beautifully lit display of the brand’s headwear and an atelier filled with local petites mains of millinery. We were all considering one of those summer-y straw Panama hats, the house’s new addition…

Potsdamer Straße 81-83

Sticks ‘n’ Sushi is a brand new spot which explores Japanese cuisine in a modern, but quite relaxed way. From delightful sushi with wagyu and a wide selection of sashimi to bowls of edaname and signature ‘Emotion’ set, the place is the right choice for a quick-lunch. The industrial interior à la former warehouse with spacious interior makes it super appealing.

Potsdamer Straße 85

Andreas Murkudis is a must-go whenever I visit the city. This time, my favourite  concept store invites you to experience the Birkenstock Box. The travelling ‘retail experiment’ in Murkudis’ courtyard will stay there till 22nd of July. It offers slightly revamped Birkenstock sandals, created exclusively for Andreas Murkudis  If you’re not really into cult orthopedic sandals, and a massive Céline sale doesn’t excite you (ok, that’s creepy), then you will surely fall in love with the massive installation by Kostas Murkudis – a line of satin dresses hanging down the ceiling, forming a rainbow colour palette. Looks very, very impressive.

Potsdamer Straße 81e

See you in Berlin!

Marubi Ramen in Berlin

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First of all, I have never been to Japan, so I don’t know how the real, real ramen soup tastes. I’ve watched The Ramen Girl (a sophisticated comedy about a woman searching for direction in her life through training to be a ramen chef under a tyrannical ramen master, mind you) and I realise that Europeans have a very wide and imaginative view on ramen’s taste. But I think that Berlin’s Marubi is a spot, where the authentic ramen might be served. Prepared in four ways (beef, pork, shrimp or vegetarian), their warm bowl of Japanese goodness tastes simply delicious. Located in Mitte, the place seems to be out of the local fuss – no fancy interior, no big media appearance. Just ramen. And a equally great selection of dim-sum and gyoza dumplings.

Sweetly, Ladurée.

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Don’t get me wrong – it’s not that I’ve suddenly discovered Ladurée out of the blue and thought it’s worth sharing. Ladurée is a Parisian landmark, a cult patisserie. There’s no need to introduce it. Everything is so sweetly aesthetical here, from the pastel-pink plates to perfume flacons. And coming here for breakfast means that your ultimate French breakfast dream comes true. During fashion week, Ladurée on rue Royale is a perfect morning spot for gossips. While eating my eggs Benedict served on a crispy brioche, I’ve overheard how a pack of PRs devastated a Dior person’s career, bitterly complaining about her ‘terrible, terrible’ incompetence. How mean. How fashion!

Ladurée / 18 Rue Royale

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Parisian Journal

 

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Le Café des Antiquaires is the perfect spot to sit and sip Noisette in between the shows.

Paris. It’s a cliché to say that Paris is the ‘city of love’. But that’s true in some way, as it’s simply impossible not to fall in love with Paris. If Paris was a person, it would be an extremely multi-faceted, slightly arrogant, but elusive character. Not a friend – rather a great lover. I’ve visited Paris many, many times, but those few days I’ve spent during the last fashion week will stay in my mind for long. Spring is the moment, when Paris blooms. People on the streets are so beautiful. Coffee tastes better, while art exhibitions open on every corner. J’adore.

Click the images below to read the captions.

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This woman – ultimately Parisian.
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Cherry-blossom tree near Le Bon Marche.
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My mum.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Yumcha Heroes Manufaktur

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Why here? The best Chinese dumplings in town. All hand-made, without any preservatives or colorants added. Meal at Yumch is quick and nutritious – a perfect lunch before (or after) an exhausting stroll in the Mitte district.

What to eat? ‘Black beef’ (steamed dumplings with beef, ginger and Szechuan pepper), ‘Pink lamb’ (baked dumplings with lamb, cinnamon and oyster sauce) and stripes of beef with fresh coriander. And of course, a glass of home-made lemonade is a must!

The atmosphere is… crowdy, steamy and filled with beautiful Berliners. Reserve!

Weinbergsweg 8 / Berlin

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki