Parma’s Addresses

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Parma (about which I wrote a separate post here) is a place where you can buy both, a pair of linen pants tailored by a small Italian family brand, and a jet-set era Gucci bag. And, while shopping, make sure to meet and talk to the local sellers and shopkeepers, who truly adore fashion and truly live their chic, Italian style. But also, Parma has this secret (to tourists, at least!) spot where you can dine in front of a church as if you lived in a Fellini film. Scroll down to discover my favourite addresses in the city, that isn’t just ham and Parmesan cheese.

Gazzabuglio di Letyzia

A tiny boutique with first class vintage. Chanel tweeds, Louis Vuitton suitcases, Hérmes foulards, Gucci leathers. All curated by Letyzia, a gorgeous, Italian signora that seems to know every seem in every single piece she sells.

Borgo XX Marzo

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Soffio

This menswear store is heaven for tailoring devotees who don’t want to look too formal. Great shoes, pants, shirts… well, everything. Note the interior, that’s filled with Italian design gems. Second floor is in the making, so expect even more of Soffio’s selection in the upcoming months.

Borgo Giacomo Tommasini 3/D

Laura Nocco Gioielli

I think I’ve spent an hour at Laura Nocco’s Parma boutique. Especially, I took my time to thoroughly examine her latest ‘tribal’ collection, which consists of metal hoops, rings, necklaces and bracelets. Nocco sought for inspiration in books about masks coming from different parts of Africa and Mexico, and captured their mystical aura in those unique, wearable artworks. Other than her own works, this designer as well sells rare, vintage jewellery (like this gold-pleated hand brooch).

Str. Duomo 1

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Store 333

This place reminded me of Berlin’s Voo Store and Porto’s Early Made. From Henrik Vibskov’s playful apparel to the most comfortable sneakers I know, Veja, Store 333 is the go-to address of the locals who might from time to time take a rest from the ‘Made in Italy’ tag.

Borgo Giacomo Tommasini 12

O Luxury

Parma’s biggest luxury multibrand that has multiple stores located on one street (each with different character, from the ‘hype’ one to ‘rich Italian woman’ one). Here you will find Gucci, Attico, J.W. Anderson, Vetemets and even Rick Owens for Birkenstocks.

Via Nazario Sauro

Croce di Malta

That’s my favourite restaurant in the entire Parma – it’s the one located in front of an old, no longer attended church. The food is simple, but so, so good. And that evening mood when you sit outside is unforgettable.

Borgo Palmia 8

Galleria Borgobello di Peppe Jervolino

Again, vintage – but more focused on jewellery and furniture. Peppe Jervolino’s vast selection of camelias, pearls, pendants, charms and pretty much every type of jewellery is impressive. It’s quite funny to see how today’s Valentino and Marni simply hit the vintage stores to find some inspo for their new season jewellery…

Via Repubblica 92B

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So, those are my favourites if speaking of Parma. Few more addresses are as well here.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Mistu

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If you’re coming to Porto (see my guide around the city’s loveliest spots here), make Mistu your must-go restaurant. It’s the best restaurant I’ve been to in entire Portugal – it’s heaven. After recovering a neo-Arab building and transforming it into the Flow Restaurant & Bar, the restaurateurs’ desire to develop new experiences at the table took them to a former locksmith’s shop behind the Stock Exchange Palace. Black, white, brass, straw and green are the tones that predominate here, creating a chic, groovy atmosphere. But what’s most appealing about Mistu is that several gastronomic cultures of the orld with references of Asia and South America arrive at the table with an Portuguese accent. Chef Rui Mingatos is a magician! Try the tuna ceviche for starter, Uruguayan picanha for the main course. An ecstatic experience! Oh, and you better book a table in advance.

Rua do Comércio do Porto 161 / Porto

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Eating in Lisbon

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Lisbon is not only great art, mind-blowing architecture and stylish concept stores. It’s also all about food! And really good food, I should admit. And no, the don’t only eat baskets of freshly picked clementines here (as pictured above) – even though a fresh juice made of them is an actual seventh wonder. Here’s my short guide around some of my favourite eating spots and dinner places in the Portuguese capital.

If you’re planning your dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro, read carefully the following: beware of the queue! No reservations, which is usual for the best restaurants in Lisbon. But before you induldge yourself in all those spider crabs, razor clams, tiger prawns and goose barnacles, you’ve got to wait for about half to one hour outside. No worries – they serve beer for the patient ones. And the waiting is really worth it.

Av. Almirante Reis N.1

After an exhausting excursion to Alfama’s most important churches and a few hours of walking down and up the hilly streets, Pois Café is the right place to take a break. The interior is an eclectic mix of brick, vintage furniture and local artists’ paintings. Food is simple, but tasty – take the plate with mozzarella bufala or the passion fruit cheesecake. A fast brunch / lunch in an intriguing spot.

R. de São João da Praça 93-95

A Chevicheria is Lisbon’s hottest dining place. The huge octopus hanging above the bar tempts to enter and try Kiko Martins’ signature seafood menu. Whether it’s a tuna ceviche with radish or St. Jacob’s mussels, you won’t be dissapointed with the restaurant, that’s for sure. Again, no reservations, possibility of waiting in a queue. But the locals know what’s good!

Rua Dom Pedro V129

Morgadinha de Alfama is not a busy, fancy kind of place, but it has one of the most romantic patios in town. And delightful tapas! It’s especially refreshing when the temperature rises and you can hide hear from the scorching sun.

Beco do Alfurja 2

Everybody heard of Time Out Market in Lisbon. You can eat anything here, from the best pata negra ham and fried squids to soaps in the most stylish packages at A Vida Portuguesa corner. The food here is good, true, but the prices are slightly too high. Also, don’t expect Berlin’s market coziness – Time Out is much more commercialised. But the flower shop located inside is a total must visit – even if you can’t buy a bouquet due to approaching airplane travel. Just beautiful.

Av. 24 de Julho 49

In case of traditional Portuguese patisseries, Padaria e Pastelarias Panificação R. Sao Roque is unrivalled. Try tapas served in a more contemporary manner at Tapisco. I hope that the next time I’m in Lisbon, I will discover equally delicious places. Any recommendations, maybe?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Markthalle IX

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That’s Berlin – you go down the street and suddenly find a place you never want to leave. Exactly this happened to us when we came across Markthalle IX in the Kreuzberg district. As the name suggests, it’s a ‘market hall’. But not that usual. Actually, it contains dozens of local butcheries, stalls with bio-vegetables and pop-ups of Berlin’s trending restaurants. There are freshly cut flowers and wild oysters; there’s salami in every possible size and taste and even Italian patisserie. The best part – you can try everything. And eat one of the best lunches in Berlin, if you find an empty bench! I tell you, this place is worth a visit.

Eisenbahnstraße 42/43 / Berlin

When in Gdańsk

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Gdańsk, a Polish port city, is beautiful – especially, during the festive season. We’ve dropped into the town on our way to the New Year’s Eve destination, and honestly, couldn’t leave for a while. All those details of the Old Market, the truly captivating architecture pearls and the jaw-dropping heights of St. Mary’s Church made us stay here till the evening. If you ever visit Gdańsk, you can’t miss Corrèze. Located in the modernised dockyard district, the restaurant induldges its guests with exquisite cuisine. Corrèze specializes in creating taste wonders out of local ingredients. We tried the fallow deer and goose giblets goulash and the Kashubian goose thigh confit – all of that was beyond! Just ike the delicious meringue cake. Also, there’s nothing better than a pre-New Years walk near the cannal with a lit view on the historic city. Gdańsk, love you.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.