Fierce Victoriana. Givenchy AW15

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Rather than make-up, models wore jewellery at the Givenchy show. For AW15, Riccardo Tisci went classy Victoriana with blooms of sportwear – jacquard blazers, slim tank-tops and enchanting lace gowns made me think of Altuzarra which showed earlier this month. The opulent, dark side of Tisci is well known to us – he serves it to us each season. There were a lot of old signatures which seem to be flipped every three months by Tisci like a old steak on a grill party. The religious prints, the cut-out skirts or even the peplum is all a deja vu. I need some fresh air at Givenchy. Please.

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Men’s – Haunted Race. Givenchy AW15

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Riccardo Tisci pleases me from time to time – and this collection is good. It’s spooky, artistic, haunted, mysterious… the models had their faces painted in abstract ways and all of them looked superb on that red glitter runway. The boys wore strongly embroidered varsity jackets while girls… couture. Yep. Riccardo Tisci brings haute couture back to Givenchy. And that’s just great in my opinion. Thankfully, Riccardo goes away from the commercial side, and thinks beauty and craftsmenship again!

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Joan D’Arc. Givenchy SS15

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Well. Riccardo Tisci AGAIN comes back to his roots, where he was all about stripes and graphical prints. And the harsh sexuality. I hoped this will never come back… but it did. The summer collection, which is totally not for summer, is all about leather, Jesus, heavy metal and, as Riccardo said, Joan d’Arc. Maybe there was something about Joan d’Arc in this collection… the provocation? The over-use of crosses and Christian symbols? I think this Madonna-ish trend died together with punk. The collection felt so, so weak, even dough the embroideries are certainly breath-taking. The collection didn’t introduce nothing new- it made woman look over-sexy and over-bossy. The last few seasons were pretty good, but this broke the timeline. And seeing the Kim and Kanye family ‘like all the time’ during the show looks seriously faux pas. We need a fresh breath, Tisci.

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Men’s: Darkness. Givenchy SS15

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“I always come back to the dark side. It’s what I’m most attracted to,” Tisci explained. This season – like many of his collections – he explored the duality between something quite aggressive and uniform and something much more romantic. Leather thigh-high lace up boots were worn with pearl embellished floral print garments, and all of his models emerged onto the runway with their hair pushed back inside black hairnets. His female models – including Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel and Irina Shayk – made their way around the industrial show space in sheer dresses (which revealed bondage-style underwear) and thick black cat eyes. The show was in good taste, it was elegant and glam, but at the same time very arrogant and non-chalant! In the middle of the show venue, we had a huge, deconstructed airplane made by Dutch artist Paul Veroude, which was a chic approach to luxury and the 30s, which very influenced the collection.

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Indian Summer. Givenchy AW14

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Already the setting told me, that something will be another than it used to be before at Givenchy. By meaning “the setting”, I mean lack of huge pile of old cars, basketball field or church organs. The setting was… A narrow runway. And that’s it. That possibly means that… Riccardo Tisci will concentrate on clothes, and not on performance. And I was right! The collection was like a flashback to Riccardo’s first shots at Givenchy- embroidered, romantic gowns, fur jackets, tuxedo trousers with over-sized pockets… And no more t-shirts with digital prints. No more coolness kept in the picture (although Kanye and Rihanna sat in the front row…). That was the real, romantic Givenchy we missed so much.
The AW14 was like an Indian Summer (or rather Indian Winter). Models wore exotic leathers, beads mixed with braids on their heads, fur vests and tribal-appliquéd dresses and skirts for example. There were some connections to menswear AW14- these trousers. Inspired with basketball players, Riccardo applied these rapper sweatpants too, into this interesting collection. I must admit- I prefer this kind of Givenchy rather than the commercialised one. Because here, only few pieces will land on-line… P.S. The models: Maria Carla Boscono, Karen Elson, Stella Tennant, Kendall Jenner, Natasha Poly and Joan Smalls. A perfect cocktail.

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