Men’s – Bundle Up. Rick Owens AW17

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I thought, ‘God, I’m getting really earnest,’Rick Owens explained Dazed & Confused backstage of his autumn-winter 2017 collection. “Instead of whining so much, it has to be about rejecting oppressive, turbulent times and defying it. When I look at the collection, it’s very much about bundling up, it’s about wrapping up. It’s like getting ready for turbulence.” This season, designers openly respond to the current political oppression, which is happening around the globe. From ‘peace scouts’ at Prada to defiant London-based designers, it’s about a modern-day armour. Owens takes part in the rebel, dressing his man in shelter gear: wrapped-around-body duvet jackets, voluminous pants and colossal puffa cocoons. We’re strong.

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Draped Ethereal. Rick Owens SS17

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After seasons of contemplating on humanity, Rick Owens looks at the brighter side of things for spring-summer 2017. Nina Simone on the show’s soundtrack (the show-note claimed that the designer listens to her everyday in his studio); joyous colour palette dripped in yellow; models wearing voluminous, extravagant silhouettes. Draping is a keyword for Owens’ latest creations, and this season isn’t an exception. Drifty dresses with fantastically sculpted, furry hems at the front stole the spotlight, just like the ethereal closing looks. For the last few pieces, Owens collaborated with Maison Lemarié, a Parisian atelier specialising in work with feathers and plume. The effect? Three, impressively fluid-like capes covered in ostrich feathers. In the dark world of Owens, it’s rare to say something is fairly tale magnificent: for spring-summer 2017, it’s a must.

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