Rick Owens

After seasons of contemplating on humanity, Rick Owens looks at the brighter side of things for spring-summer 2017. Nina Simone on the show’s soundtrack (the show-note claimed that the designer listens to her everyday in his studio); joyous colour palette dripped in yellow; models wearing voluminous, extravagant silhouettes. Draping is a keyword for Owens’ latest creations, and this season isn’t an exception. Drifty dresses with fantastically sculpted, furry hems at the front stole the spotlight, just like the ethereal closing looks. For the last few pieces, Owens collaborated with Maison Lemarié, a Parisian atelier specialising in work with feathers and plume. The effect? Three, impressively fluid-like capes covered in ostrich feathers. In the dark world of Owens, it’s rare to say something is fairly tale magnificent: for spring-summer 2017, it’s a must.

The world becomes dramatically devastated due to climate changes, but Rick Owens stands in defence, letting his men out this season. “I’m thinking about that a lot, thinking about the challenges that the world is facing, and how people deal with changes,” he shared backstage. “You can put up a defensive facade – which is great, and I’ve done that, we all do that, and that can be totally fine. But this season, I thought I wanted to do something more gentle.” Comparing to autumn-winter 2016 season, which was all about heavy layers, Rick’s spring collection is all about revealing the inner side. It’s definitely gentler in form, with oversized trousers and draped tops. The models look like soldiers, but not entirely fighting types – rather like the peace-keepers, in their fluidic robes and body-adapting silhouettes. Empowering pieces for a tough world we live in.