Kate and Laura Mulleavy are back on the New York fashion week schedule for good (after a stint in Paris and look-book presentation). And for their comeback show, the Rodarte designers chose the New York City Marble Cemetery, which appeared to be a perfect backdrop for the ethereal, fairy-tale, yet somehow supernatural collection. No mourning widows here, but a line-up of dramatic, eye-popping ball gowns made of tulle, crotchet, ruffled leather and lace. To be precise, this was a classic Rodarte collection, over-the-top and completely uncommercial. Some of the ‘bridal’ gowns were even too much, with all the floral embroideries and heavy shoulder meringues. ‘Romance’, ‘decadence’ and ‘daydreaming’ are easily coined while browsing the collection. Yes, those are alien terms that are growingly uncommon in New York, but alive for Rodarte (and the pack of actresses who fancy their dresses for the red carpet events). But, in a way, this season’s excess felt exhausting and unfocused. Noting the amount of work needed to make at least one of those dresses, I can’t help but have this sense of unneeded… exaggeration. Still, I’m glad to see the sisters supporting the NYFW calendar again.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.