Spring Romance. Rosie Assoulin Resort’17

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Rosie Assoulin is always true to her style, and never forgets about that. But it’s wrong to think that she’s resting on her laurels – in fact, season-to-season, her signatures evolve and evolve, becoming even more craved. Staged in Meatpacking District, the presentation of resort 2017 is filled with those “wow, I need it now” thoughts. The designer makes you literally gasp, when you see one of her chiffon mega-flares worn effortlessly with a ruffled, checked top. Statuesque, but with a smile.

Rosie is known for dressing the stylish women of New York, but this season, she goes a bit farther, supposedly to Havana (which has a moment in fashion). Dancing maxi dresses, voluminous skirts and feminine silhouettes ooze with Cuba’s heat, while the joyous colour palette (from toned khaki and mustard yellow to crimson red and aqua blue) makes this collection a perfect transition wardrobe for both, winter months of deliveries, and the spring days, when these clothes will be “theoretically” worn. Not only the colours and shapes made this romantic collection so tempting. With a help of embroidered watermelons, carrots and grapes on an organza frock, Assoulin’s latest look-book is a feast for the eye. And definitely an essential top-lister of the resort shows.

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Big Pants Tale

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Lena in her N21 flares

Although big pants / flares aren’t always pleasantly seen in the society, let’s be cool about them – if styled well, these pants can easily become an essential of your wardrobe. Noting that the floor-sweeping length is having its appearance everywhere, from Celine Resort 2016 look-book to Rosie Assoulin’s AW16 collection, flares (which not necessarily must be denim!) seem to be an old-school alternative of culottes, which unfortunately don’t suit everybody due to their very, very difficult silhouette. Worn with a lace, slip top or a DsQuared bomber with a badass, J-Lo fur hoodie, the big pants work with almost everything. And, what’s the most attracting about this unsung must-have, is that you can truly have fun with them. Make them look slouchy (Y/Project autumn-winter 2016), chic (N21 cappuccino shaded version) or on fleek (Balmain AW07) – and remember to free your inner Jane Birkin.

So, are the big pants having a 2016 tale?

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Y/Project AW16

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Eckhaus Latta SS16

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Céline AW16

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Carla Bruni in her apartment

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Rosie Assoulin AW16

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Céline Resort 2016

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Balmain by Chistopher Decarnin SS07

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N21 SS16 on Lena

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Maison Margiela in the 90’s

Good Things. Rosie Assoulin AW16

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Considering all the fresh names that appear during New York Fashion Week, not many enter the game with a purely unique vision, or even a mind-striking collection. Sometimes, it looks like a slightly modified Celine or The Row copy-and-paste method fits all the occasions, while the venue of the show or presentation is limited to a modestly furnished uptown loft (there are too many of those this season, too). But in case of Rosie Assoulin, one of the most prolific and talented millennials in the fashion industry, everything works in the other way – meaning – every step the designer takes is utterly her’s, and not of somebody else, and what’s the most important – she doesn’t lead her eponymous label onto a mainstream path (well, you may say that her jumpsuit appeared in Beyonce’s Formation video a week ago and that her gowns appear to win the celebrity’s hearts on the red carpets – but still, her creativity keeps to be offbeat).

The autumn-winter 2016 presentation was, honestly, the most beautiful of all the New York brands I’ve seen this season. Firstly, the place where Rosie showed her new collection felt like the perfect spot to show these joyous clothes – the diverse models walked around a wooden installation of colourful, burning candles, creating abstract wax veins on the concrete floors. The rawness of brick walls, the elegant, but kinda off-duty black piano filled the atmosphere with Assoulin’s presence.

Another asset that Rosie had this season was the intimacy her show held – the guests could discover the pieces on the models up and close. And what’s more, the clothes were really interesting, which sometimes is missed by other designers nowadays! Dark blue velvet-trimmed pajamas (and chokers), a lipstick red jumpsuit with a caped back, a one sleeve cable knit worn over a ruffled, beige skirt – the woman portrayed by Rosie deserves a wow on a party. And for those, who prefer something more everyday, the female designer who understands all aspects of a woman’s wardrobe presented some great, olive-green pants, breezy tops with sexy shoulder cut-outs and arty blousons. I’m not mentioning the coats, as they look perfect when styled with one of these cargo pants…

Rosie knows what’s good. Slay.

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