Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland are a good duo for Salvatore Ferragamo. The first does womenswear, the latter menswear, but their visions are well coordinated and balanced for a brand that’s all about Italian luxury goods. In their second season, consistence and neatness is the key. Andrew’s approach is “dressing toe to head”. It all began from a dig in the brand’s rich archives. A shoe from 1942 (a multicolored patchwork suede wedge) informed the collection’s kaleidoscopic palette and the patchwork motif that ran through it. It’s a nice fun fact, but it doesn’t really reflect in the clothes that are brilliant, just as they are. A pin-striped deconstructed dress; a butter-y nappa leather jacket in cobalt blue; a rustical, plaid blanket skirt; sleeveless knit worn over a masculine shirt… I see lots of delightful daywear here. The appearance of all the gorgeous, mature model veterans – Liya Kebede, Maggie Rizer, Kirsty Hume, Georgina Grenville – and their appearance in these clothes made another statement: Ferragamo’s wardrobe is a real wardrobe.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.