Classics. Salvatore Ferragamo SS19

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It’s the second season at Salvatore Ferragamo for Paul Andrew (who does womenswear) and Guillaume Meilland (menswear), and it seems that the two are a perfect match for this Italian, heritage house that specialises in leather goods. The designers, who gracefully coordinate their roles in order to create a harmonious image of the brand, prove their integrity with this grown-up, well-considered line-up. From the casting (Stella Tennant opening the show, Carolyn Murphy closing) to the colour palette (neutrals, like sun-kissed beige and khaki, contrasted with bright turquoise or orange), it’s all about classics. There’s shirting; there’s gorgoeus outerwear; there’s evening wear that stuns with craftsmanship. Menswear is equally good – we’ve got absolute essentials like trench coats and elegant pants, all refined and kept in a loose fit. The footwear and bags (the stuff that Ferragamo sells the most) are as well refreshed. Somehow, after all these years, you want to enter the brand’s store and take hold of their goods. Paul and Guillaume, bravo!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Re-Invention. Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2019

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It’s the second season of Salvatore Ferragamo‘s re-invention for Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland. The two designers managed to wipe off the dust of the Italian house already back in their brilliant debut collection. Now, the question is – will they thrive? And, will the client return to Ferragamo after the year of oblivion? Well, since Phoebe Philo exited Céline and the customer who wants that kind of luxury won’t stay for Hedi Slimane, they can turn to Andrew and Meilland (as well as to Lemaire and Hermes, but why not give a try to an Italian brand?). Knitwear is offered in the most high quality yarns, meanwhile shirting looks, well, like tailorship perfection. Archival prints were used for plissé silk, and the label’s signature Gancio motif was woven on canvas jacquard. Smart integrity between the past, and now. But, wait – the shoes! That’s Paul’s job mainly. Those burgundy boots in eel skin are gorgeous. “The shoes really dictate a lot at Ferragamo; here they have their own special voice” is how he summed up the footwear line. I think there’s bright future for Ferragamo with these guys.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Mr Porter US