Boys in Paris. Proenza Schouler SS18

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Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are the boys, who for years defined the contemporary chic of New York’s fashion scene. Hearing about their unexpected departure to Paris last season was quite a surprise. Everybody asked: what will New York fashion week be like without Proenza Schouler? Well, one thing’s sure – the Big Apple undoubtedly sobs that it didn’t witness one of the couples’ strongest and most beautiful collections.

But why Paris? And why so early for spring-summer 2018, while it will be presented by other labels in September? First, the brand decided to expand its recognition internationally, as Paris, not New York, is the place where all eyes look at. Second, the designers decided to dissolve the pre- and main-collection into one, consistent line-up, leaving more space (and time) for their intimate, creative process. Vetements done it, with success; Burberry has a similar business model; Rodarte, which presented its collection the same day in the French capital, takes the same risk this season.

But lets talk about the clothes, which in the end are the most important. As I’ve mentioned earlier, that was a truly impressive collection. Form low skirts and ready-for-everything blazers to statuesque ruffled dresses and stark red florals, Lazaro and Jack searched for a balance between arty edginess and comfortable elegance. Wait, we’re in Paris, just on time for haute couture shows – this explains the last looks, pimped up by the local petites mains. Looking like moving fluffy clouds from a distance, those were intricately inserted feathers on Sasha Pivovarova’s art gallery owner jacket or Mariacarla Boscono’s show-stopping evening dress à la Black Swan. Actually, each look is worth a paragraph. Also, please take a look at the low-heeled shoes with pointy-toes, kept in simple black or embellished with colourful beads. An instant need.

I think that a warm ‘bienvenue’ is the right term to greet Proenza Schouler at their new, European home!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: combination of different installations and artworks by Kate MccGwire).

Yohji

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Publication: Love Magazine #14 Fall Winter 2015
 Model: Adriana Lima, Alek Wek, Carolyn Murphy, Cierra Skye, Dree Hemingway, Gisele Bundchen, Iman Abdulmajid, Julia Nobis, Lily Donaldson, Missy Rayder, Raquel Zimmermann, Riley Montana, Sasha Pivovarova 
Photographer: David Sims
 Fashion Editor: Katie Grand

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Mature Chic. Proenza Schouler AW13

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Proenza Schouler is getting with every season even more mature and better! When the opening model of the show was Sasha Pivovarova, that is that is doing her big comeback, I thought that this will be good! And it was! The collection was very minimalistic, kept in black, white and neutrals. It was easy and classy. The ultra cool tailored jackets look really casual and perfect for a windy weather. And these ski like leather gloves look like lots of fun!

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There was a comeback of asian inspired kimono dresses with straight peplums! The crepe dress in beige with some subtel dots was also a big highlight of the show. And I loved the serie of two models in sweatshirts that were presented on skirts or dresses made out of something looking like feathers! That was kind of parodoxal! A street chic mixed up with mature elegance. The shoes of the collection were incredible because they were just simple. A small fragile leather ribbon on a minimalistic high heel with stretch in the middle.

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Now that’s a real bye bye time NYC. And we will meet in Milan (or in London, I am always forgetting!) 😃