Dadaistic silhouettes. Primitively covered faces. Barefoot. Nudity. Simone Porte Jacquemus continues his “naive” fashion journey, keeping his AW15 the most mature of all. With faces painted by Sebastien Bieniek, which felt very abstract (and creepy), the collection provokes and at the same time shows primitive cuts and simple way of attaching textiles. Explaining that he wanted to capture some of the instinctual feel of being a child, the designer said: “I cut jackets like little kids will do—sometimes the cut is weird, there is just a half top. I like this randomness.” But what does the NSFW dose mean? In my opinion, just like the twirling black hands, it’s a part of some kind conceptual performance which Jacquemus shows off. The whole collection, full of exaggeration and peculiar sex-appeal felt even more artistic and disturbing when you looked at the venue “designed” by Alex de Betak – walls with hole, camping chairs for the guests, dust and a smell of fresh paint. Escapism at its full strength. Although this collection might feel eerie for many, I like it’s elusiveness – it’s magnetising. And, let’s be honest – for a while, we didn’t see any show that was really strange and more than entertaining.
Simon Porte Jacquemus
Jacquemus / Advent 2014
La Piscine de Jacquemus
French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus chose to show his Fall ’13 collection at a public pool in Paris’ Bastille neighborhood. Fitting, considering the range was inspired in part by French actress Isabelle Adjani and her 1984 hit song and swim-centric music video, “Pull Marine.” Dreaming of Adjani in the water led Jacquemus to formulate a “tender” ideal of classic French sportiness with a hint of “Cocorico” patriotism.
Jacquemus gave homage to his homeland, France showing the patriotic flags on the shirts. Evident in his white, red, and blue palette and the fabulous white shirt with a Tricolore pocket. Other standouts included a cropped crewneck jacket paired with a low-slung pleated skirt, sweater-skirt combos, a T-shirt dress with trompe l’oeil red bathing suits, and lots of navy and white pin-striped cotton. This label is on my Hot list (the pool idea is stunning) and as for me it’s a bit similar to Julien David! Like if even Jacquemus was trained by David…


















