On Wednesday, at 7 in the evening, the Gucci party at Warsaw’s Vitkac started. In this calm, black building, which holds brands like Celine, Saint Laurent or Louis Vuitton, the craftsmen from Tuscany were invited to host a very special event- personalising the Gucci leather products (bags and accessories were welcomed). In a traditional, Italian way, guest’s bags had their initials written on with the iconic gold font, while others could drift away in a huge selection of beautiful clothes and shoes for the fall season. The Bamboo shopper, Jackie clutch and Soho bag were all present. The crowdy, but chic atmosphere was fulfilled with Poland’s hot names: Joanna Horodynska and Justyna Steczkowska, which were both very nice and warm. Everything felt simply perfect, with that luxurious, Italian precision. Thank you Vitkac and Gucci for inviting me and Lena for this fantastic event! Here are some of my photos I took on the party.
While seeking talented fashion designers and artists on the social platform, Instagram, I discovered Reed Anderson (@iamreed), who is creating unique artworks in Brooklyn, New York. His practice draws from a background of printmaking and cultural arts, creating an interesting mix of modern fantasies, making you imagine what you feel like. The heart of Reed’s current body of work uses large pieces of intricately cut paper as a stencil, which is folded and painted upon itself multiple times to create an image. Paper that has been cut out of these drawings are further embellished and collaged into the larger drawing, while smaller artworks arise from “detritus” printed elsewhere while working.
I hope you will enjoy this special interview with Reed that is only available here, on Design & Culture by Ed!
ED How would you describe your artistic techniques? They look really unique…
REED Thank you… I think primarily my work comes out of printmaking and painting… The cut paper works are hand-cut into large painted and printed stencils that become the tools that effect other work, but they also become works unto themselves. Pieces that have been cut out of the paper reappear as collage as things are patched and disorganized …reorganized. This time-consuming cutting of paper is countered by a more irreverent way of working with it once this process is complete …I like countering the super intricate with the fucked up messy things, it’s more true to life.
ED What is the “Papa Object” all about?
REED These paintings steal auction catalogue images and reproduces them as large photographic images that are printed on, painted, cut, collaged, altered and walked on to re-present the object as a kind of painting. PapaObject is specific to a group of these paintings I mailed to locations around the globe as a kind of research experiment before deciding to show them publicly. Places included a sweatshop in China, a research vessel in Antarctica and an office cubical at MOMA. (can we get Poland with you?) The project can be seen at http://www.papaobject.com. I am currently looking for someone to help publish this as a book.
REED I always feel grateful to be showing my work anywhere …but yes, opportunities to show in New York are especially “mind-blowing” as you say, because of the scale of audience that you reach. This will be my fourth show at Pierogi, and I feel very lucky to have them representing me here in New York.
ED What is behind “The Way You Look is The Way I Feel” title that is the name of your Pierogi exhibition?
REED Titles are important to me, but less so about specifics and more about an energy they give …also important is how they feel in the mouth, when you say them. This particular exhibition title came from something someone said. I knew immediately I had to take it. The more I thought about it, talked to people… it became clear how many different ways we could see it. Was it a pick-up line at a bar or was it about people looking at art or each other? It’s really funny to me, but there’s always something serious when we’re laughing.
ED While working, do you plan before creating or you do it spontaneously?
REED If you want to take a trip, you’re just a tourist if you carry a map. The work embodies some of the processes of printmaking, a kind of plan, but later this map is always tossed out for the forward spontaneity of painting. I would get bored if I always knew where I was going…
ED Do you have any motto you would like to share with DACBE’s readers?
REED This Buddhist monk and I were talking about worry (…this sounds like I’m telling a joke) and he said to me, “don’t live in the ruins of your future” … I think about this any time I’m starting to get freaked out about stuff. It keeps me in the present and allows for an optimistic blind faith that is necessary to continue working.
Reed Anderson’s show at Pierogi Gallery runs through April 27th. The gallery is located at 177 N. 9th. Street, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City www.reedanderson.info
Welcome to the new, clear DACBE. This is a short on-line magazine that is available on designandculturebyed.com and covers the hottest stuff of season’s fashion! In the first issue of NOTHING BUT THE BOOM you will find out more about coolest shoes of SS14, Chanel summer show and the hottest (and warmest) colour of Pre-Fall… Click here to view the issue!
On the 15th of November, at the Theresa store on Maffeistraße 3 in Munich, a very special and one-in-a-kind event took place. While I was arriving to the store, a big mass of people stood there, with cameras and phones. Then I thought, that this is something really big. After a stare of people around me, I entered the warm place, where labels like Celine, Saint Laurent or Dries Van Noten got their hangers on. The event was happening on the second floor, so when I went upstairs, I was pleasantly surprised… The atmospheric music was on, Veuve Clicquot was poured into the champagne glasses and white roses mixed with Diptyque candle aroma gave an delicate, but refreshing scent around the space.
Excited, I didn’t know at what should I be concentrated first- at the amazing dresses, guest’s outfits or chatting with others about the event… Then I saw Justin O’Shea, the main shopper for Mytheresa, whose style is my favourite to watch during the fashion weeks! After having a small talk with him about the whole party, the most expected moment came- the biggest star of the evening arrived! Her fragile and as always chic posture moved promptly into the centre of the room. Yes, that was Victoria Beckham. Full of grace, wearing a coat from her new collection and killer-heels on, Victoria was at Mytheresa and hosted the party. Taking mine place in the front row (believe me, seeing your name in then front row is a mind-blowing experience!) the show started. As I discovered from Justin, the whole trunk-show was about Beckham’s first ever Resort collection. So, while the models wore all these super sexy and full of colour dresses and coats for Spring, Victoria was telling about her inspirations, occasions for wearing these treasures and the way she styles them . And the best thing was, that Victoria commented at these in such a humorous way, that she immediately made the atmosphere warm and friendly! All the models looked beautifully, just as the outfits they had on!
When the show ended, there was a time for having a short Hello with Victoria Beckham, and a photo taken with her. I was quite shocked, so I just could say “I am happy to meet you” to her, but thankfully Victoria supported me with an answer back and a little hug… After this short meeting with the designer, there was a time to try the dresses from the main line, Victoria by Victoria Beckham and Denim from the Resort 2014 collection, plus seeing up close the stylish totes and mirror clutches. The detailing was really impressive, just as the quality of fabrics- very soft and stretchy. I really fell in love with everything that was orange- this energetic colour looked even more fun in Victoria edition. The classical bags from the main line are already iconic for their delicate leather and minimalistic forms, while the exclusive Mytheresa box-clutches with metallic reflections and custom leather details on, surely will be soon the new bestsellers!
Writing this, I still feel super happy and honoured to be invited for this event together with Lena. Only 50 customers world-wide of Mytheresa could get their invitations, so this is an additional privilege. I met so many amazing people and fashion experts in one place. And of course seeing Victoria for real was incredible. Surely this experience will be for me unforgettable! Thank you very much, Mytheresa!
Helen Bullock (Central Saint Martins BA, MA) is a textiles-driven label, using strong silhouettes as a platform for bold prints of a visceral nature. Throughout the seasons, work has been featured in publications including Dazed Digital (Rise), i-D, and Vogue. And… She’s up on DESIGNANDCULTUREBYED exclusive interview!
EDWARD: Hi Helen. You are a young fashion designer from London, who graduated Central Saint Martins MA and BA, having your own label Helen Bullock and doing amazing illustrations during the fashion weeks. It’s all really impressive. Well, I hope you are doing fine?
HELEN: I AM!!!!
ED: What inspired you for this season’s collection? It’s so FULL of prints! And as I know, all textiles are designed by you.
H: Yes! all about the prints! As always a look across many different paths of imagery in an attempt to create my own visual story. At first I was driven by the bold honesty of graphic 60s prints, alongside a carefree image of Peggy Moffitt, combined with the intensity and composition of Keith Herrings work. Bit of a whirlwind really.
ED: Many designers usually find out they are going to be in fashion industry after sometime of studying different staff. But when you were choosing your college, did you feel from the beginning you will be a fashion designer?
H: As the cliche often goes it really was something I dreamt of as a kid – but no more so perhaps than other options that preoccupied me. I eventually started studying fashion a little later than normal, and was a little resistant as thought the fashion pathway was a little predictable, and was thinking of myself as a fine artist. That all stopped though when I came across the idea of print … something that I’d never considered before, but seemed to bridge the gap so well between art and faaaashion!
ED: If you could choose, who would you love to wear your pieces? This can be an alive or dead person…
H: Well … I absolutely love it when Julie (Vehoeven) wears them …. but on a wish list Peggy Moffit would be super … and Iris Von Apfel would surely rock it!
ED: Who is your biggest fashion idol?
H: Anyone really who is prepared to take a risk and walk down the street holding their head high. I’m sat next to a lady Linda right now wearing a wonderful explosion of a Diana Freis dress…and dolly curls in her hair – we work together every Monday, and she never fails to impress.
ED: hile you are a fashion designer, at the same time you’re contributing your fashion illustrations for A Magazine. How would describe your drawing style?
H: Intuitive, sparing and in equal measures intense, at times awkward.
ED: Looking at your print erupting clothes, it seems you have a very energetic personality. Does your everyday style reflect the collections?
H: I hope so. I feel at a low if I’m not wearing brightness.
ED: If it’s not a secret- what are your next future steps for your label?
H: I’m trying to work my label as a limited edition made to order product. So rather than stockists, I’m almost searching for a place to exhibit the garment. At present though I’m setting up an on line shop, and have various collaborations in the pipeline.
I’m also hoping to add a range of scarfs to my next collection.