HC: In The Garden. Chanel SS15

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Am I the only one who thinks Karl Lagerfeld starts to be boring? This haute couture collection feels so… without life. The models were all dressed up as gardener wives, wearing ugly, anti-couture boots, widow straw hats and strange silhouettes, which are totally not eye-catchy. Definitely, if not the high retail of bags and cosmetics, the brand would feel some crisis. He claimed the show came to him in an electronic flash. “One morning in bed, I saw it in a second.” Or maybe he had a peek at the archives? SS10? Ring a bell? Same theme – cute dresses and a garden. But, then, the dresses were really cute.

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HC: Latex Dreams. Dior SS15

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Raf Simons did some crazy latex knee boots with rhinestone crystal inside. Having Allen Jones provoking furniture and art on his mood-board, Raf Simons fused Great Gatsby jumpsuits, 60’s prints and flattering 70’s silhouettes into one, beautiful collection. “My first Couture shows were exercises in understanding the history. The more you understand, the more you see what it can become.” Definitely, Raf is more into couture at Dior… thoses striped tulle skirts are mesmerising! So tribal. The jumpsuits look chic and stylish. And latex shoes which covered the legs made it all a bit eccentric, sexy, flirty.

Photos by Lea Colombo

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HC: Elite de Paris. Schiaparelli SS15

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I mean, Schiaparelli didn’t gave much time to Marco Zanini. After two seasons, he’s out. Well, if it’s couture, then don’t count on high retail, right? Duhh. If talking of the collection – I am a bit annoyed. The collection was designed by Schiaparelli studio, so it doesn’t have any fresh touch. It’s just about taking archive pieces from pre-war period and making them a bit more modern. But from the other side, the dresses were impressive with all those embroideries. Then, the beaded saris and white smoking brought the old good Parisian elite to life. But… I want something more. I want the house to respect it’s legacy, but at the same time represent something individual, fresh. Hmmm…

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HC: Galliano. Maison Martin Margiela SS15

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At the end of the show, every Instagram post said one thing: he’s back. Who? Of course John Galliano. The biggest couturier of 21st century, the story-teller of fashion, the provocateur – is back in great form. At Maison Martin Margiela.

His debutant show was presented in London – which is a major change because all previous Margiela collections were presented in Paris. But in reality, London was the main inspiration behind the Artisanal presentation. It’s youthful attitude, beautiful people and monarchy vs. punk conflict strongly influenced John throughout his career and while creating the collection.

The first look was suprisingly Margiela, but not that much at the same time – Galliano trailed toy cars across the collaged landscape of a tiny suede sheath. The sheath is the signature Martin Margiela piece, but the infantile elements are making us think of John’s spirit of fantasy. Within this excessively embroidered collection, we’ve met so many bold characters. The red queen coming straight from a fairy-tale. The tribal leader wearing a pagan veil. The rebellious dame looking like Vivienne Westwood. The chic dandy in black suite. Many of them were unknown to the house codes, but they feel close to it with their strong identity and need of experimenting.

With a blink-and-you-missed-it bow, John Galliano was seen wearing an iconic white coat from the Margiela atelier. Famous for showing off with his own outfit, this time he thought that’s not needed – the collection itself was so fearless, daring, heroic and stunning, that only the visual experience can express it!

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Woman’s New York / Advent 2014

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December 20: New York Fashion Week was never so full of female designers- Rachel Comey, Mara Hoffman and Carin Rodebjer are just few examples. This means, that real women want to design for real women! Designer guys, you’ve earned new girls on the block… Rachel Comey, Mara Hoffman, Rodebjer, all SS15.