Power of PR. Sies Marjan SS17

September 14, 2016September 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sander Lak of Sies Marjan has the best PR in town. It’s his second season, and his clothes are already sold by the most meaningful retailers. The hottest models and newcomers walk his shows. Out of nowhere, all the season’s fashionistas appeared on his spring-summer 2017 show. The editors are “stunned”. But is there a reason for all that fuss? I’m still in search for this ‘something’ that makes Sies Marjan a fashion phenomenon. The newest collection is good, but it’s like a deja vu of many other, on-the-radar labels. His colour compositions are called “brilliant”, but is there anything shocking about putting together the most Instagramable pastel shades? I’m quite bored with that. Lotta Volkova, the ‘Vetements best friend’, was tapped to style the show. The effect? Definitely not as jaw-dropping as everyone expected. The collection isn’t bad – scarf-like dresses in silk, platform boots, sequined gown in saucy-red – but it’s not remarkable.

Challenging. Victoria Beckham SS17

September 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Velvet is having its big comeback in fashion, and we’ve seen it in various forms throughout the last few seasons. Spring-summer 2017 is into velvet, too, and Victoria Beckham‘s brilliant collection is a clear evidence for us. Just look at the flowing velvet dresses kept in this fascinating, crushed effect. The silhouettes, kept in aquamarine-blue, lilac-purple and snow-white shades, were liquid-like, nearly dripping down the models’ bodies. But velvet wasn’t the only hot topic during Beckham’s outing. A play with proportions has been visible – Victoria’s high-fashion wellies looked so unnaturally big when styled with slim, ribbed-knit dresses or pencil skirts. A boxy top in floral print over a pleated, turquoise skirt: the volumes were utterly disturbed, and the look is far from banal. But that’s the spark of this collection – it’s intriguingly sophisticated, and nothing seems to be there by coincidence. I might even say that it’s the designers’ most challenging and somewhat uncommercial collection to date. A big thumb up.

After Party. Alexander Wang SS17

September 13, 2016September 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Get over it – Alexander Wang isn’t a guy who does serious fashion. I completely understood that last season, when he sent a line of weed-printed dresses and “Strict” logo beanies. Don’t fight it. Wang’s newest collection is youth, and one thing is sure: the future success of spring-summer 2017 is based on the young customers.

Basically, it’s all about sportswear and streetwear (as usual), and that’s highlighted by the fact the event launched a collaboration with Adidas (this had to happen). The main line was a ‘remix’ of the designer’s previous collections – buckled sandals from SS16, pyjama shirts à la SS14 – and it mainly focused on unlikely, messy pairings. A fur bath-robe, neon-purple bra and board shorts. ‘Groundbreaking’. Of course, there was a wide range of lux hoodies, a bunch of sultry, Cali dresses and lots of neon-and-lace combos. The last is a rip off Christopher Kane’s cult SS11, by the way. Concluding – you can be a slave to Alexander’s “fashion”, or not join the club. But then, you won’t be invited to the after show party…

Ready to Wear. A Détacher SS17

September 12, 2016September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

New York is the only city out of the big, four fashion capitals, which is a home to designers and creatives of Mona Kowalska‘s league. Brands like A Détacher aren’t based in London, Paris or Milan for a reason – their attitude just wouldn’t fit there. Kowalska’s eponymous label, which is sold in her flagship store and at few selected boutiques in the USA, is quintessence of New York style, even if this sounds like a total cliché. It’s far from pretentious and boring, but close to functional and personal. Most of all, A Détacher’s collections are created for women, who love fashion, and LIVE their lives. Those clothes, opposing any current trends, are literally “ready to wear” – and they become an organic part of a wardrobe. For spring-summer 2017, Mona delivered a collection filled with bold pieces waiting for their unique wearers. Take the knee-length, blush-pink hoodie – it’s not here because of Vetements, and the entire streetwear thing. A Détacher hoodie, with a lace skirt under, is above that. Densely layered knit looks continue to be the labels’ best-kept secret, and its a favourite styling trick among Kowalska’s fans. The season’s biggest highlight is the introduction to new denim pants. The silhouettes are loose-fitting, all in good, old blue wash. Love.

Collage by me (as usual), feauturing Kasia Korzeniecka‘s brilliant water painting print.

Feather-Light. Ryan Roche SS17

September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ryan Roche is New York’s go-to designer in case of anything connected to timeless, luxurious knitwear. Throughout the few last seasons, she introduced us to the most fleecy, cashmere cardigans and sweaters ever. Also, she’s the modern-day queen of beige – in fact, a majority of her looks are kept in different shades of this warm, underrated colour. Yes, that sounds like a strong foundation for a brand to stay in its comfort zone. But Roche won’t rest on her laurels anytime soon.

Spring-summer 2017 was Ryan’s first runway show, and that let her present a visual experience for he guests. Julian MacKay, a soloist with the Mikhailovsky ballet, travelled from St. Petersburg to stage a dancing performance among the designers’ models dressed in knitted skirts and evening wear. The lightness of those knits is comparable to MacKay’s grace. The clothes were so different comparing to the last seasons, and that felt really exciting about Roche’s outing. Margiela-like, leg-of-mutton sleeves came with white blazers; romantic lace appeared in slip-tops and dreamy, maxi dresses. Cashmere scarves and shawls were worn the Marlene Dietrich way – so soigné! With the help of a new Italian factory, Ryan created her version of a suit – high-waisted trousers cinched at the waist and a semi-cardigan with light knit cables. Seeing Roche on new ground is one of my favourite moments of this New York Fashion Week so far.