Luis De Javier, Spanish-born, London-based designer, presented his spring-summer 2024 colection in a space smack in the middle of Hollywood, just above Sunset Boulevard. The designer brought on a new stylist – his mentor, Riccardo Tisci. Judging by these few sentences you can already predict this was a hot fashion moment. Against a techno soundtrack, de Javier presented a collection that has evolved from his previous ones, with a matured sense of proportion and volume. He continued his exploration of political commentary through clothing inspired by Spain’s 1990s hardcore rave movement, La Ruta del Bacalao. Since it was shut down by an oppressive government, the collection imagines a utopia in which the movement would still be alive today. Corseting was the common denominator, as it was in past seasons, communicated in different materials such as leather, canvas, and latex, and layered under and over other pieces. A latex coat with exaggerated shoulders draped fluidly; constructed as a corset or dress, it covered the body as if it were poured over it. The bling came by way of chains and cords draped over jersey dresses, and unlikely materials, such as extra-long ballerina nails, that were reimagined as dramatic fringe on an asymmetrical evening dress. Mixing club kid vibes and Cristobal Balenciaga-inspired could easily go wrong. Tisci’s mentorship lends refinement to de Javier’s vision. Where his past collections had obvious references, this one is more subtle, and what might have previously been rough around the edges now came with the romantic darkness Tisci is known for. Tisci’s touch in the styling was evident as well, via the restrained color palette, the delicate mix of lace and leather, and belts cinched tightly across the bust. The jersey t-shirts worn over the head recalled a nun’s veil, which is in line with the religious references Tisci used during his time at Givenchy. This was a strong, evocative collection, and also a big reminder that fashion needs more of Riccardo Tisci.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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