Berlin is so, so good. You meet Stefano Pilati on the street. The most stylish man ever. From the refined and sublimely elegant creative direction at (Yves) Saint Laurent to his gender-blurring Random Identities brand, I’ve been following Pilati and his sense of aesthetic for years. Meeting him was a dream – and dreams come true!
Who? Serhat Isik, Benjamin Alexander Huseby and their intriguing collaborators.
Where? Looking at the clothes, there’s only one guess – Berlin, of course.
What? According to the designers behind this off-beat label, “in German, GmbH means a company of financial limited liability, which is the German equivalent to ‘ltd.’ or ‘Inc.’ – the most common standard legal form of any German company. We didn’t really want to use our own names; as we don’t want the main focus to be on us. And it also reflects or design process. GmbH is so neutral it can mean anything and nothing at the same time.”
Why? GmbH origins from the German capital’s famous clubbing culture, but also, the diversity of this city. The clothes are not only modelled by the designers’ friends – Serhat and Benjamin are inspired by the way they dress, both for everyday and a night-out. What’s interesting, majority of the label’s one-of-a-kind products is made of deadstock materials. Over-sized jackets, PVC pants and technical fabric t-shirts are just a few of the essentials GmbH produces and sells.
No, you aren’t wrong – one of the models starring in GmbH’s new season look-book is Stefano Pilati.
Photo I took on Via Manzoni in Milan last week.
When women desperately seek a way to look like a Parisian girl, who masters the messy chic of Caroline de Maigret or does the sexy au naturelle look a la Jeanne Damas, then men do their best to be like a Milanese guy. A man from Milan is not obsessed with Versace and Dolce as you might think – the contemporary one (who is usually in his 30s, 40s…) cares about the statement: a unique, fancy detail, which seems to be nearly invisible. Also, this guy rides his Vespa with grace, showing off his perfectly matched socks which are exposed by the cropped pants. Being a Milanese guy is hard – but possible, if you know his three, quite effortless yet so, so dandy tips.
Photo via The Sartorialist
Simone Marchetti is the most stylish guy in the town, and also the best guide if talking of Milan’s tourist-free restaurants on Instagram. He can pull off a chiffon, pastel pink Gucci blouse from Alessandro Michele’s autumn-winter 2015 collection, and still keep a cool, masculine effect (even if the wool sweater is pink, too). Matching his gentle style with classical Levi’s denim pants and furry mocassins, the fashion editor at La Repubblica always nails it, when wearing a piece from his favourite Italian designer or something much more casual.
Photo via A Love is Blind
Stefano Pilati is the designer who kept Saint Laurent extremely chic before Hedi Slimane’s catastrophy; also, he left Zegna just few days ago, in order to “focus on personal projects”. His collections at Zegna envisioned his Milanese style – over-sized, woollen pants and coats are his signatures – and when writing “over-sized”, I mean Stefano’s elegant play with silhouettes. Moreover, Pilati wears the symbol of every well-dressed Milan-raised man from Milan – the neck scarf, non-chalantly tied aorund the neck. The outfit above is a total favourite of mine.
Photo via The Sartorialist
Alessandro Squarzi is a Milan-based fashion entrepreneur and street-style regular, who has a carefree approach to dressing. Squarzi is a fan of Italian’s finest Neapolitan tailoring – but at the same time, he loves the comfort of Converse trainers and t-shirts. In the look above, he looks more than great in an edgy, checked blazer and vintage boots.
When Mr. Stefano Pilati was at helm of Saint Laurent (back then still YSL), the Summer 2008 collection was all about plastic stars worn as tops and embroideries on the shoes and dresses… it was very pop and cheerful. Looking back at it, I have a feeling that Hedi Slimane’s grunge isn’t so far away from Laurent’s chic!
UNO. It’s how Stefano Pilati named his second collection for Agnona. The first one, ZERO COLLECTION, that was a ground collection, was just a good start for the new happy years that await Agnona with Pilati. UNO seems to be more complete- great evening wear, cool outerwear. The look-book is full of colours- violet, yellow and blue flowed through the river of black. Everything looks easy to go, without any… say, “wear it till you die”. Because that was Agnona like few years ago! The Italian label that was famous for great wool sweaters, had a few year depression in its sales. But now with ex-YSL designer, Stefano, the brand seem to come back to life. Just like Tod’s. And this is great that Italian labels have their renaissance time- the best quality clothing is going to arrive soon again! My favourite pieces from Agnona AW14? Definitely that melange coat. And those sculptural gowns!