School. Miu Miu SS27

A year ago, Miuccia Prada sent aprons down the Miu Miu runway – blue, floral, not unlike the ones worn by Bożena at my favourite greengrocer. As usual with Prada, her fascination with the supposedly mundane first caused confusion, then collective obsession. The apron became less a fashion statement than a political one. For spring-summer 2027, Prada takes us somewhere else entirely: from the market to the schoolyard. More specifically, the gym. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Miu Miu Leather Slingback Mules



Miu Miu Logo-Knit Silk Sock

Miu Miu Diagonal Rib Silk Skirt

Miu Miu Contrast-Striped Cotton-Blend Polo Shirt

Miu Miu Embellished Satin Slide Sandals

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Boutique-ness. Courrèges SS27

I actually really liked Drew Henry’s debut at Courrèges. This is possibly one of the most difficult houses to make sense of in the 21st century. His predecessors either went blindly too space-age or focused solely on the vinyl jacket. Nicolas Di Felice seemed to have the vision, but I always thought the brand wouldn’t mind a little more warmth.

Henry, a Phoebe Philo alum, approached it with a certain boutique-ness, which is a rarity in Paris lately, where everything must be bigger and louder. It feels like something you would look for in a small shop somewhere in France, where the owner is named Françoise or Francine, has the best style in the world, and however hard you try, you will never dress like her (but you can try!).

There were very chic-looking colour-block jackets and pea coats in a 1960s cut that wasn’t too on-the-nose; an otherwise simple look of a black T-shirt and yellow pants sharpened with a pair of driving gloves; a quirky little hat here and there. The male models wearing the signature André Courrèges A-line mini dresses? It felt like a spontaneous, not-overthought decision that just radically worked. Something is germinating in this house again. Just please give it time to bud.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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American Style. Polo Ralph Lauren SS27

And just like that, for the second season in a row, Polo Ralph Lauren’s presentation is one of the best things to happen during Paris Fashion Week. Along with Celine’s Michael Rider (who previously designed at Polo) and The Row’s Olsen twins, Karen Brown Body is leading the pack of Americans conquering Paris – and the tastes of the Old Continent.

But we’re no longer talking about revisiting preppy here. Polo’s senior brand creative director is finding a new way to tell the story of American style, one that effortlessly brings together the dressed-up polish of the Upper East Side and the laid-back spirit of Malibu surfers. And yes, she does it in a way that makes the Parisian fashion crowd drool with excitement.

White jackets and tuxedo shirts worn with red swimsuit bottoms and flip-flops; madras checks contrasted with faded Hawaiian florals; an otherwise very elegant ensemble completely loosened up with strings of coral and a cap. This is 100% Ralph Lauren’s language, but done in a way that feels modern, desirable and, crucially, easy to repeat at home. And what I love most about Polo’s renaissance is that, even as its shows move to Paris, the brand stays true to its affordable price range.

ED’s SELECTION:


Polo Ralph Lauren Logo-embroidered Cotton-blend Cardigan



Polo Ralph Lauren Embroidered Cotton Twill Cap



Polo Ralph Lauren Fringed Leather Jacket



Polo Ralph Lauren Logo-embroidered Cotton Bomber Jacket



Polo Ralph Lauren Leather Knee Boots



Polo Ralph Lauren Boyfriend Jeans

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Unresolved. Dior SS27

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson wanted to achieve a sense of lightness. It’s probably one of the most difficult things to pull off, because if something goes wrong midway, the result can easily look clumsy and unresolved. And that is exactly what happened with this collection. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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End Of An Era. Saint Laurent SS27

The first days of Paris Fashion Week are already lined with a growing feeling of melancholy. The “Roaring” Twenties are slowly approaching their end. Will the Thirties be the new Great Depression?

Anthony Vaccarello’s not-yet-officially-final collection for Saint Laurent felt like a heartfelt good-bye, but to me it also read as the final ball. Nobody knows what tomorrow will bring, so let’s just have a party. The collection was to-the-death 1980s, walking a thin line between high-octane glamour and numbing tackiness. The overscaled chandeliers echoed those of the InterContinental Hotel, where Yves Saint Laurent used to present his collections (especially the very last ones, which were actually the least critically acclaimed). The little chanson Charlotte Gainsbourg sang for Anthony only added to the maître de cérémonie energy. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


SAINT LAURENT Guermantes 95 Patent-leather Slingback Pumps



SAINT LAURENT EYEWEAR Sl 902 Howl D-frame Acetate Sunglasses



SAINT LAURENT Woven Midi Skirt



SAINT LAURENT Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Camisole



SAINT LAURENT Bo Coeur Fetiche Gold-tone And Crystal Clip Earrings

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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