Looking at Demna Gvasalia‘ pre-fall 2018 collection for Balenciaga, it’s quite clear that the designer has fully consolidated his persona into the maison. To such extent, that within his five seasons at the brand he has established cult pieces and cult vibe (like the spandex pantashoes, the Knife mule, the tea-dress, THAT “messy” look). Also, wherever you look, Balenciaga is an international top-seller. But once you take a peek at Gvasalia’s past approach towards fashion (that made everyone feel obsessed with him and his Vetements pals), and see what’s at Balenciaga now, I guess the ‘bad guy’ of fashion dramatically became a success story of the big luxury corporation, Kering. I know a pre-collection should sell, but right now it’s just about flipping prints and switching one neon colour for another. The spark that used to be there with every Balenciaga collection by Gvasalia, even the commercial ones, has gone. Let’s hope it’s a temporary phase…
Yes, it’s the sad truth. Phoebe Philo‘s pre-fall 2018 really is the last collection for Céline. And, once you calm down after a minute (or two), let the tears dry, face it – this collection is a gift that keeps on giving. I think I’ve went through the images dozens of times by now and I constantly discover something new, something completely fresh, something only Philo could do. As Sarah Mower wrote for Vogue, it’s a collection of “souvenirs”, collectibles to wear and adore in memory of Philo’s Céline era. Those wool ponchos; heavy rubber boots; Margiela-esque duvet coats; the white fur coat with an equally fur belt; simple, Katharine-Hepburn-would-approve blazers. The spontaneous shots of Binx Walton, Jess Cole, Karolin Wolter and Maggie Maurer (all the beloved Céline girls) by Juergen Teller get me freaking excited as well. That’s a very, very precious fashion moment to me. And I really can’t wait to see and get hold of some of these pieces once they hit the stores this summer.
Sportswear is basic, I know. But the burgundy track suit can’t be ignored.
Also, I’ve realised Juergen Teller wore this fur coat to his latest shoot for Pop Magazine.
That. Look. In. The. Middle. I can’t.
Well, that’s all. All good things come to an end, even if we don’t want to end.
Looking for a well-curated vintage store in Berlin‘s Mitte district? I’m sure The Golden Circus will please you in every possible way. The place is a fruit of a long-life passion for fashion and crafts that Sonia, the owner, has. Ancient silk kimonos made according to traditional Japanese techniques; ethnic textiles from Central Asia; handmade accessories (if you’re here, note Caralarga, a Mexican jewellery brand, and those Sicilian bags from 1950s Italy); vintage clothing from Burberry, Moschino and others. “Wearing these pieces, Sonia explains, makes you aware of the incredible amount of work and the fantastic workmanship that was put into them. In this sense, all of them are real treasures.” Can’t agree more with that. Rather than going for another mass-produced coat, why not invest in a piece that has its story?