Perfect Conditions. Loro Piana SS27

Today I woke up with a realization: I really don’t want late fall (the rainy part of it that lies ahead after the very comforting yet unreliable gossamer), and winter? I’m signing out. But I’m very much here for the not-too-serious layering season that, sadly, at least in Poland, lasts barely two weeks sometime in October and then briefly reappears in April.

Oh, how I would love to wear Loro Piana’s spring-summer 2027 collection during those couple days of just perfect weather, neither hot or cold. READ THE FULL TEXT HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Loro Piana André Herringbone Linen Shirt



Loro Piana Bale Small Leather And Canvas-trimmed Nubuck Tote



Loro Piana Cashmere Jumpsuit



Loro Piana Leather-trimmed Cashmere Jacket



Loro Piana Open-knit Silk Top



Loro Piana Venice Embroidered Cashmere-blend Flannel Slippers



Loro Piana Pleated Pinstriped Wool And Cashmere-blend Wide-leg Pants



Loro Piana Fobello Cashmere Sweater



Loro Piana Checked Wool And Cashmere-blend Flannel Shirt



Loro Piana Jekel Leather-trimmed Shearling-lined Suede Jacket

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Phoebe Philo Collection F

It’s become a tradition: Phoebe Philo releases her lookbook about a week after fashion month ends. And every time she drops a new collection, she further underscores just how out of touch with reality many designers are, especially those showing in Paris. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Warmer, But Not Hot. Alaïa SS27

Pieter Mulier turned Alaïa into a cold house – which is why I’ve never been entirely convinced by his vision there. Now that he’s working on Versace, the Parisian maison has been left to its own devices. And maybe that’s for the better. This studio-designed collection felt a tad warmer (but not hot) than the house’s repertoire of the past few years, while also being more essential. Gone were the weird, overly architectural structures Mulier couldn’t seem to stop using to cover women up. What Alaïa needs – and deserves – now is a bit of va-va-voom. Maybe the studio has it. We might just need a season to see it fully unleashed.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Fashion Can Be Fun. Vaquera SS27

Imagine two enfants terribles crashing the atelier of Coco Chanel or Cristóbal Balenciaga, ripping apart chiffon dresses and splashing gowns in acidic green. That’s exactly what you got in Vaquera’s latest collection. Designers Bryn Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio keep delivering much-needed fun to Paris through their very New York way of doing things, reminding us that fashion can, indeed, be hilarious. And sometimes bigger than life. There was plenty of irony, too: the lady of the house decked out in grand feathers, her private chef in a tiny parachute dress and an enormous toque (was Ratatouille hiding inside?), and a maid in a flirty little apron. Honestly, fab.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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So Bad It’s Great. Valentino SS27

At first, I found Alessandro Michele’s latest Valentino collection so obnoxiously tacky that I was close to completely dismissing it. But then I went back to it. And again. And again. And I still can’t stop looking. I realised that, with all its va-va-voom, Michele is ferociously fighting the current status quo of fashion: the safer, the better. We are so indoctrinated with ideas of “good taste” that his collection feels like a much-needed danger – a slap on the wrist that shakes you up. The colours are gloriously pop and motley, the silhouettes delightfully old-school, and there’s something very, very enchanting about how profoundly un-modern this collection looks. In a fashion landscape obsessed with restraint, Michele is making a case for excess, awkwardness and sheer visual pleasure. It’s so bad, it’s great.

ED’s SELECTION:


Valentino Garavani Bow-detailed Gathered Satin-trimmed Wool-crepe Jacket



Valentino Garavani Printed Lace-trimmed Cotton T-shirt



Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Velvet Pumps



Valentino. A Grand Italian Epic by Taschen



Valentino Garavani Gold-tone, Crystal, Faux Pearl And Resin Earrings



Valentino Garavani Embellished Satin-trimmed Cropped Cotton-blend Velvet Peplum Top

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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