style

Power Dressing. Tom Ford SS19

| Design & Culture by Ed

After his over-the-top, kitschy-chic fashion show back in spring, Tom Ford’s spring-summer 2019 collection felt like a colour detox mixed with self-reflection. Black, white, beiges and pale lilac were the leading shades, while the entire line-up took us down the memory lane of Ford’s career. For a moment, we all experienced again his 90s momentum at Gucci, that was all about refined sexiness and confidence – words that match the designer’s current work with the same precision. To a surprise of many, there were as well references to the few year tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, the period that shaped Tom’s aesthetic into a more sublime, after-dark vision of women.

But back to 2018. Draped skirts with lace inserts; jackets and blazers made of fake crocodile leather; satin cocktail dresses and evening gowns with pony-hair details. Some of the looks are fit for goddesses of seduction, other for cosmopolitan bosses. This one all-leather look seemed to be taken straight out of Roxy Music’s cover that featured Amanda Lear. But no, in the end this collection wasn’t created with a dominatrix in mind, but for powerful women who want garments that look equally powerful. The menswear part can be described with one word: handsome. Conclusion: when the evening comes, you want to meet both, the Ford woman and Ford man.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Sun-Kissed. Partow SS19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Who: Nellie Partow

Where: New York

What: Partow, as a label, is rooted in the present tense, so don’t expect 70s or 90s references that storm other designers and brands for the last couple of seasons. Simply speaking, it’s a brand that can be easily put next to The Row. The quality of knitwear, tailoring and pretty much everything else makes Partow a true American luxury brand, from top to bottom.

SS19: The designer listed her hometown of Laguna Beach, California, as the main inspiration behind the laid back silhouettes. Baha hoodies are a nod to the local surfers, while the toned shades of peony and tangerine remind “the peach undertones in your skin,” post-sunbathing. The collection’s highlight was definitely the hand-knit cable sweater, which was covered with paint to mimic whitewashed wood. Gorgeous! Phoebe Philo is still off the radar, so if you seek clothes that are similar to hers, Partow might be your go-to brand this season. There are some clear clues of Nellie’s love for the pre-Hedi Céline (with an É!), from the styling to several garments (far too many to list). But that’s not a bad thing! I also found the look-book itself quite intriguing, starring Tasha Tilberg and photographed by Bibi Cornejo Borthwick.

P.s. The fashion month has just begun, and I thought of changing the format for my reviews. New brands that debut on Design & Culture by Ed will have the ‘in a nutshell’ scheme (like here), while the more well-known names will get the traditional, long read.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Camille Bidault Waddington for & Other Stories

| Design & Culture by Ed

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If you know my site for a while, you might have noticed that I never write about all the high street fashion brands and their events / special collections / collaborations. Well, here’s an exception: Camille Bidault Waddington for & Other Stories. When I saw the look-book images from this extraordinary capsule collection on Instagram earlier today, I was so, so pleasantly surprised. I mean, it’s Camille! The same Paris-based Camille, who’s most frequently behind the scenes, working as a stylist for independent magazines like The Gentlewoman, Purple, Holiday or Dazed & Confused. She’s also the woman who adds her final touch to Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s Chloé. And, she occasionally walks the Eckhaus Latta runway in New York. Shortly speaking, if you want the right person to co-operate with on a capsule, Camille is the perfect choice – not some oversponsored, unexperienced, flashy blogger.

Come 6th of September, and you will meet these friends in your nearest & Other Stories stationery store (or on-line): an over-sized trench coat, olive-green dresses and pants fit for autumn layering, pencil skirts with chic slits, beige camisoles with lace inserts, faux python skin pumps… at the first glance, it all looks like a remix of Phoebe Philo’s classics at Céline (Céline with an accent, mind you). But then, CBW wore all that two decades ago, and continues to dress like that today. How down-to-earth of her to share personal style favourites with a wider audience. That’s what I call a collab.

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Fam. The Elder Statesman Resort 2019

| Design & Culture by Ed

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Greg Chait‘s Los Angeles-based label, The Elder Statesman, is where you go for the finest cashmere sweater (and not necessarily in a controlled, classic shade of beige). But for the last few seasons, Chait transforms The Elder Statesman from high price point brand to a lifestyle, that is open to questioning the pretentious term ‘luxury’. The resort 2019 look-book has a message. True, living your life in a Swiss silk knit (!) or a tie-dyed sweater from the softest wool must be a pleasure. But the photographed family (that travels Europe in a lorry truck, selling vintage and surfing where possible) suggests that ultimate luxury is not what you wear. It’s the freedom. And what goes with freedom, being not attached to anything conforming, for example trends or other conventions. Moreover, Chait represents unique style and the practicality of his clothing: how it can be combined, mixed, layred. Love that. Another conclusion: being a dad in those blue overalls or that vintage-y orange-pink jacket must be fun! If I ever enter fatherhood, I will surely look at The Elder Statesman’s collections for day-to-day outfit inspiration. As if I wasn’t peeking at it now…

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