Queenie. Richard Quinn AW18

February 21, 2018February 21, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Some young designers appear on everyone’s lips thanks to their strikingly unique talent. Some luckily get to the mainstream by dressing a celeb, or rather an Insta-girl. Meanwhile, Richard Quinn‘s phenomenon got elevated through an exceptional combination: the guy has the talent. And, the guy had Queen Elisabeth II in his show’s f-row. I suppose the biggest names in the industry would be life-fulfilled after such an honour. For Richard, it’s just the beginning.

Quinn is the first recipient of Her Majesty’s British Design Award that is here to raise and support UK’s emerging fashion stars. With his knack for collage-ing and manufacturing prints in the most fantastic ways, there’s no wonder why the designer won. “It all feels a bit surreal,” Quinn exclaimed backstage of the show. “I only found out a few days ago that I’d won. When I saw the blue cushion on the front row, I knew it was real; I knew she was coming.” The emphasis that Richard puts on prints and patterns is impressive not only because he does wonderful ball gowns with a modern twist or floral-shocker puffas. It’s the sense of unity he builds among young designers and fashion students in London with his print studio in Peckham – it’s there, where he shares and lets for an open-access to printwork. And who would have thought that he has graduated with a master’s from Central Saint Martins just a few years ago? A bright, bright way future is there for Quinn, I believe.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Slowing Down. JW Anderson AW18

February 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

The autumn-winter 2018 collection from J.W. Anderson was the first time the eponymous label showed womenswear and menswear together. Jonathan Anderson just felt it’s the right time to decrease the number of collections per year and… slow down the pace. This certain ‘chill’ has its reflection in the collection’s mood, which is a compelling set of over-sized, laid-back knits, ruffled blouses in paisley and maxi-dresses. In other words, nothing ground-breaking is going on in here – but does it make this collection less intriguing? Absolutely no. There was something very sensual about this offering – the subtly sheer pants and trench coats worn on bare body are just that.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fashion. Marc Jacobs AW18

February 16, 2018February 16, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Huge flourishes, bold gestures, broad strokes and silhouettes expressed in rich and gorgeous fabrics from double-faced cahmeres, meltons, and tweeds to failles, moirés, iridescent and flocked taffetas, radzimir (!), velvet and warp print statins. Marc Jacobs‘ autumn-winter 2018 wasn’t just a lesson on fabrics – it was a lesson of fashion. Inspired with the 80s mega-designers – Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent – Marc had the very best to show in his spectacular collection. Polka-dots, big shoulders, XXL bows and ruffles – that’s a wardrobe of Mrs. Glam, who’s wearing a chic bolero hat. Jacobs, whose company is reportedly in a financial crisis, seems to show the middle finger towards commerce, for fashion’s sake. There’s no way you can’t respect that. And who knows – maybe that kind of extravagance will sell better, than any cheaper sister-line filled with sweatshirts? All the hope in the clients.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Daily Delights. Rosie Assoulin AW18

February 14, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While for the past seasons, Rosie Assoulin earned a reputation of New York’s best place to shop for unpretentious eveningwear, the designer focused a bit more on daywear this time. And especially, outerwear, which is just a delight.The marble print – Rosie’s current obsession fuelled by a newly found book on marbling techniques – looked equally great on the reversible jackets, as on the pants in scarf-like silk. Tailoring is also a brand new area for Assoulin, but she manages to pull it off in a distinctly bold way (see the blue suit!). Flares are back, stronger than ever. But this wouldn’t be a Rosie Assoulin collection, if there were no dresses. From more day-to-day options to red-carpet spotlight stealers (that sculptural, micro-pleated gown), it’s impossible not to be mesmerised. Or even, enchanted!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Lucid. Sies Marjan AW18

February 12, 2018February 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While for the last few seasons I didn’t really understand Sander Lak‘s phenomenon, his autumn-winter 2018 collection looks, well, really good to me. Since the start of his eponymous label, Sies Marjan, Lak indulged himself in pastels mostly. “Last season was light, a dreamy state. This is still a dream but an intense one. Not a nightmare, not a happy dream, not a wet dream.” Then, a lucid dream! This time around, it’s more about psychedelic ombré of iris purple, crimson red, deep blue and forest green. Colour has always been his soft spot, and the collection shows how good the designer is in mixing and crushing the most unlikely palettes. From gowns draped with taffeta and cute shearling jackets to slouchy suits and relaxed pajama shirts, it’s like a delightful, yet demanding, spectrum of must-haves. If Sander’s latest collection had its colour palette’s name, I would definitely call it the ‘sweet melancholia’.