Big. Victoria Beckham AW18

February 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday’s Victoria Beckham show was special – it didn’t only celebrate the label’s 10th annversary, but as well it was the last show presented in New York (the designer is switching for London, where her fam is. And Spice Girls, of course!). What you’ve seen 10 years ago in a Beckhamcollection, and what you see now, is diametrically, even dramatically, different. No more body-con, cocktail dresses and killer stilettos. Quite the opposite – loosely fit maxi-dresses, luxe hoodies and masculine coats. But what I appreciated the most in her autumn-winter 2018 collection were the felt bags – so big! Especially, the lilac one stole my heart. Really, you can carry anything in it, from let’s say kittens (as the collage above presents) to an entire, additional outfit for change. Beckham, since her radical change in fashion aesthetics, must adore Phoebe Philo – I think it’s not hard to notice some very distinct Célinisms here. But since Philo left Céline, where will ‘those’ women shop next autumn? Well, Victoria might have the answer.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

I’m Bossy. Alexander Wang AW18

February 11, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Staged in a former Condé Nast office, filled with corporate cubicle walls, Alexander Wang‘s autumn-winter 2018 fashion show’s venue promised a lot. Glass-ceiling breaking! Female empowerment! Strong, business dressing! All that came to my mind instantly. But did the designer deliver anything worthwhile? Except the Matrix reference and lots of black, nothing else, honestly. It’s hard to imagine a working woman wear any of those dominatrix mini-dresses and leather skirts with slits in the most NSFW spots. Not that sexy is bad. I’m not trying to sound puritan! But I just don’t think this theme really works for Wang, and his ‘party girl’ roots. If it was just another Wang-ish collection, it would at least feel persuasive. He tried to do something mature, maybe. Sadly, the result is a mash-up of current Saint Laurent, vintage Mugler and Gucci-era Tom Ford, in wrong context. Fingers crossed that the trip to Paris next season will be slightly more succesful for the designer…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Personal. A Détacher AW18

February 11, 2018February 11, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Even though ‘intimacy’ seems to be distant among New York-based designers, there’s Mona Kowalska of A Détacher. With her cozy store in Nolita, a growing client base of smart women, and a great sensibility for prints and fabrics, Mona’s presence on the schedule is off-the-radar, but worth taking a look at. This season, the Polish-born designer left behind the idea of references and specfic inspirations. Rather, she focused on her personal style, that has developed into something unique throughout the years of working in fashion. Distorted blazers over beige turtlenecks; crotchet knits styled with floral blouses; very lovely, shaggy cardigans worn casually over a matching in colour dress. While styling plays an important role at A Détacher, it’s the clothes that do the work – I think that’s the essence behind the label.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fine and Raw. Eckhaus Latta AW18

February 11, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

I love Eckhaus Latta. While other designers leave New York for Paris, it’s comforting to see that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta choose the Big Apple for their fashion shows. Or rather, Brooklyn. For seasons, Eckhaus Latta is a champion in model casting diversity (from plus-size girls to elderly ladies), but lately, it also impresses with the fabric choice. From knit skirts spun from Italian yarn to slinky rayon Jersey evening wear, there’s a cool sense of raw meets fine in every single piece. The lilac mini-dress is clingy, but not vulgar; masculine blazers make a statement, even though they aren’t overly sharp in silhouette. Mike and Zoe respect the body, in their own, arty way. But how do they get the idea what a woman (or man) wants? In their L.A. store, “there’s only a curtain that separates our studio from our store,” explained Latta. “We can hear when our customers are trying on jeans, when men are trying on women’s clothes, and vice versa.” There is no better feedback, than the one coming from a client. Take notes, other designers.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fierce! Tom Ford AW18

February 9, 2018February 9, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

A new make-up line. Vegan confessions and fur-free philosophy. A very successful menswear collection was presented just a few days ago. With his autumn-winter 2018 collection, Tom Ford doesn’t only open the official fashion month. He celebrates himself to the fullest.

Whether it’s informed in the 80s heavy references (animal spots leggings, acid colour sequinned dresses, zirconia embellished kitten heels) or Edie Sedgwick’s Warholian glamour, Ford’s runway collection is a splash of joyful ‘fashion is fashion’ optimism. I can’t get enough of these really fierce looking jackets and sleek suites he delivered last night. The show’s diverse casting is as well a big, big point for Ford – although he never seemed to have a problem with having beautiful models of different skin colour in his shows. The #MeToo movement got a space here as well in form of ‘Pussy Power’ clutches, covered in glitter.

NYFW, kicking it off the right, powerful way.