Neo Retro Lady. Saks Potts AW18

February 9, 2018February 9, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Since its runway debut in 2015, Copenhagen-based label Saks Potts has quickly garnered the attention of the street-style stars and trending editors. With a focus on creating timeless, yet bold outerwear, founders Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks mix colours and textures when designing their statement coats. Their autumn-winter 2018 presentation in New York felt retro edgy, with the new addition of eveningwear, pussy bow dresses and gorgeously looking umbrellas (!). All those pretty pastel combinations are well contrasted with polka-dots and strong shades of green and fuchsia. What I loved about this collection was the slightly cinematic sense of America’s 60s style. I can easily imagine the a woman wearing one of these belted coats down the Bowery back in the past. But as well now, in 2018.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Free Spirit. The Elder Statesman AW18

February 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Elders Statesman autumn-winter 2018 collection is the best prove that the season’s most precious and rare collections don’t need the fashion month rush (just around the corner…) in order to be fully appreciated. Greg Chait‘s knitwear (and not only) brand is for the chilled out people, who love quality, and a certain type of free-spirit present in their environment. “In Topanga, you have all these guys and girls who look like gurus, but I argue that you don’t have to look a certain way to meditate.” Well, who doesn’t love a loosely fit, yet delightful, knitted robe or a very, very fine cashmere pullover in tie-dye? While ‘Meditate‘, ‘Absolute Nirvana‘ and cannabis motif reappeared throughout the collection, one can also note the Kama Sutra positions motif on the fleecy knits. I was also happy to see Jatinder Singh Durhailay (whom I’ve met in Berlin and wrote about few years ago) collaborate on this collection. The artist painted the original miniatures of technicolor yogis that appear as a playful patterned lining. In other words, this collection suddenly makes me feel a great urge for moving to Cali and lead Big Little Lies’ Bonnie kind of life.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Handcraft Glamour. Proenza Schouler AW18

January 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Skipping New York fashion week for the Paris couture season works for the Proenza Schouler boys. That’s perceivable – their second collection in the French capital is a bomb. Reflecting on who their woman is, and what are the PS codes, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough combined globe-trotter craftsmanship with contemporary glamour for the label’s autumn-winter 2018. “We took it back to California, to handcraft, women’s lib,” Lazaro said backstage. “But we were thinking about this voyager, picking things up as she goes along. A voyager across borders.” Whether she’s wearing a crotchet, midi-dress in bold red, a handful of bracelets or one of these shearling coats, that woman certainly travels in style. The mood of the collection was comfortably relaxed – the bags are bigger this season, the knits feel clingier, while the multi-colour tie-dye looks give a laid-back, surfer-girl attitude. Fringing and velvet were here too, as well as big, eclectic necklaces that looked like treasures brought back home from remote destinations.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / New Glamour. Maison Margiela AW18

January 21, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In his first menswear collection for Maison Margiela, John Galliano does what he tries (sometimes with success, sometimes not) at the womenswear line – present the new glamour. From deconstructed trench coats to elongated and exaggerated Savile Row jackets, that was a very bold outing of show-boys in their rubber swimming caps and mummified head-pieces. When speaking of Galliano, it’s always about the tiniest detail – he’s the haute couture craftsman, after all. Even if I’m not a total fan of this collecton, I like that idea of over-the-top glamour that John leads towards the men’s wardrobe – like the biker jacket corset. Also, I’m happy to see him venture again into menswear. Waiting to see more.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / UGG in the Hood. Y/Project AW18

January 18, 2018January 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

To be honest, it was quite predictable that at some point, with ‘ugly’ shoes having a moment, UGG will also hit the high fashion runways. But I never thought that in such way as presented on yesterday’s Y/Project runway. Glenn Martens earned his fanbase with elongating and distorting nearly each garment possible; so he did in his collaboration with the Australian footwear brand, known for the fluffiest and cosiest boots. The effect? Well, really, really perfect for snowy winters. But the label’s autumn-winter 2018 wasn’t only about big feet, but layering. Layering, layering, layering, whether we’re speaking of extra-large hoodies, tartan shirts or tailoring.