Gold. Koché AW18

March 2, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christelle Kocher‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection felt the most mature up to date for the Paris-based label. It seems that Koché is slowly moving away from its street sensibility and targets a grown up customer with its brand new smokings, gold-pleated t-shirt-slash-dresses and extremely compelling eveningwear. Still, for those who don’t fully appreciate Koché’s new path, Christelle presented a number of camo-print blousons, jackets and sweatpants – eventually, that was the least exciting part of the collection. My heart beats faster for those lilac pieces, whether we’re speaking of the metallic, Helmut Lang-inspired pants or distorted knits.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Manic Soul Machine. Marine Serre AW18

February 28, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Even though Marine Serre is relatively fresh on the fashion scene, it seems she’s been her for ever. Manic Soul Machine is how the designer intriguingly titled her first runway collection – and noting the cross-cultural, cross-everything approach we’ve learned from her spring-summer 2018 presentation – it was certain Marine wouldn’t disappoint. While demanding fashion seems to be a deficit today, Serre wants you to reflect on everything, from politics and spirituality to sex and society. Her already-signature crescent moon print appeared on nearly everything (athletic bodysuits, shoes, headbands), but the designer’s ‘Futurewear’ as well involves plastic raincoats and motocross jackets. But what really surprises here is the ‘scarf’ theme (see the dresses and skirts) that contrasts with the quite heavy, utilitarian direction of the collection. Still, there are so many other garments to love and appreciate this season. And, the bags, that I firstly thought were lanterns, but then realised were haute gym bags covered in printed fabric.

There’s something elusive about Marine Serre’s fashion – it’s hard to explain in one word. It’s ‘love’, ’emotions’, ‘future’, ‘intelligence’ – words that rarely can be used to describe clothes. However, they fit Marinne’s work perfectly.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Le Souk. Jacquemus AW18

February 27, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While ooking at the latest Jacquemus collection, I want summer to be back so, so badly (even though it’s an autumn-winter collection). Also, I’ve got to visit Morocco, like right now. That’s the effect of Le Souk, Simon Porte‘s newest story. “I got lost in the souks with just one thing on my mind: I want to make it my next summer collection. I came back to Paris and made my winter of it; my winter collection. Not wasting any more time, my warm winter.” The result? Well, doubtfully you will find any winter help in these clothes, that’s certain. But these caftan-dresses, clingy knits, hats (a Jacquemus best-selling signature) and cute skirts make you daydream. Jacquemus is one of Paris fashion week’s biggest excitements, and the designer brought us another reason to love him: he launches menswear. I can’t wait to see how he injects his joyful Frenchness into men’s clothes. See you in June.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Dessert. Marni AW18

February 26, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Franceso Risso embraces individuality like no other at Marni. Here, at the the most conceptual, Milan-based brand next to Prada, he distorts volumes, combines the most unlikely (peacock feathers as earrings! felted coats made from compressed, recycled textiles!) and has… fun. I bet a word like ‘trend’ doesn’t exist for that immensely talented guy, who can do lady-like cat prints and equally chic plastic wind coats in one collection. I loved everything about this collection, from the heavy dose of bold colours and stylishly cumbersome totes to the bubble-like pumps and 30s-isnpired dresses made, or rather classed, from contrasting materials. Undoubtedly, it’s Milan fashion week’s dessert.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Restart. Salvatore Ferragamo AW18

February 25, 2018February 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Actually, when was the last time you’ve heard from Salvatore Ferragamo? To me, as to most of the editors, insiders and potential customers, the Italian brand seemed to have lost its identity long, long time ago. What does Ferragamo stand for? Does it even matter today?

Fortunately, the brand didn’t end as another ‘Made in Italy’ label with airport stores, even though the verge was very near. Paul Andrew, whom you might know for his namesake footwear brand, and Guillaume Meilland (Ferragamo’s menswear designer) joined forces to create an impressively consistent, chic and, most importantly, covetable collection of autumn-winter essentials. Leather and silk foulards are Ferragamo’s biggest codes, that’s why the collection was filled with incredible suede coats, ostrich leather boots and dresses covered in archival prints. The tailoring, for both men and women, was powerful as well. Katharine Hepburn, a Ferragamo fan of the past, and her style influence were obvious – a crisp shirt, a blazer, a perfect pair of pants. It’s important that the designers develop the new Ferragamo by embracing the brand’s heritage. Even though some pieces, like the big poncho or belted maxi-dresses, felt very Phoebe Philo, that isn’t the collection’s drawback. Quite opposite – those who will not find themselves comfortable in the Hedi Slimane-era Céline should switch for Ferragamo (which you might have never expected!). Bravo!