Le Nuvole. Ania Kuczyńska AW17

October 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ania Kuczyńska‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection, elusively titled Le Nuvole (meaning ‘clouds’ in Italian), is a minimalist heaven at the first glace. But is it just plain minimalism? The Warsaw-based designer is known for encoding various references and personal obsessions in her sharply cut, yet tactile garments. This season, it was a nod to her beloved Italy. Don’t associate that tip too superficially, though, as there is nothing like cliché in Kuczyńska’s creativity. Morning black coffee served in Palermo; a glass of Sicilian wine (well relates to the burgundy colour of the must-have ballet slippers); the shade of navy that resembles the Italian, night sky. Then, there’s also Monica Vitti’s ethereal grace in those silk dresses and feminine blouses. The 3/4 skirts ooze with a Luca Guadagnino film sensuality – yes, think of Tilda Swinton’s character in A Bigger Splash. The expressive silhouette of Ania’s new season pieces reflect the motion of Tarantella – folk dance in the Southern part of Italy, characterized by a fast upbeat tempo. Although that seems like quite a lot for one collection, Kuczyńska pulls it off like no other, keeping it true to her style. The mood, the texture, the silhouette – Le Nuvole is what you call eccelente, in every aspect.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki, feauturing Wojciech Plewiński’s shot from ‘Italia ’57’ series. Photos by Stanisław Broniecki, beauty by Marianna Yurkiewicz.

Teen Spirit. Miu Miu SS18

October 5, 2017October 5, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

While at her main line in Milan, Miuccia Prada discussed real heroines and the female gaze through comic-like prints, in Paris she sparked the 80s / 90s teen spirit. Ballerina-length lace dresses, checked lumberjack shirts and college sweaters were like the thrift-shop finds of rebellious students, who are about to spend a night playing in their garage band. But a bit more prettier. That’s precisely something a true Miu Miu girl will fall in love with the next season. I also liked the grunge / prairie girl contrast. But the overall effect is not too sophisticated and rather goes back to Miu Miu’s original roots: those are clothes for a younger audience. What really felt like a ‘moment’ this season was the perfectly balanced model casting: over half of the models were non-Caucasian, which tells one simple thing: yes, it’s possible, fashion industry. Please, take notes from Anita Bitton, the brand’s casting director.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Personal. Céline SS18

October 5, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In the past, Céline wasn’t the same Céline we know today. In 2017, the label is associated as an epitome of minimal, edgy chic. Actually, Phoebe Philo‘s spring-summer 2018 endeavour was to revive the Céline woman of the 70s, 80s. Those were the pre-Juergen Teller times, when the brand’s campaigns were presenting beige-loving, bourgeoisie ladies whom you would rather see on the crème de la crème of Parisian streets – the Avenue Foch.

Does this woman exist in 2017? Well, she’s rather carrying a croco Birkin, than a Céline plastic tote or, let’s say, orthopedic, rubber sneakers. But for Philo, it wasn’t about trying to do something forced or pretentious. Eccentric, charming, yet nonchalant – those are the words that well define this collection, which has both, an embellished sequin evening dress with a turtleneck and a thick-wool poncho for weekend escapes. “It certainly felt personal“, the designer told the press after her show. She surely meant that the line-up wasn’t meant to be single-themed, but more of an intimate, very elusive vision. Whether in an all-beige suit or a boldly striped gown, carrying a blanket or dressed head-to-toe in white, the Céline woman is definitely not unequivocal in her style choices. Just like fashion in the past that was free of ‘influencers’, all that social media dictatorship and trend rushing. It was about experimenting and having that ‘spark’ in your look. You had it, or not. I fear not everyone will be able to pull off these looks – they really do need that personality, not the wallet. But that’s the reason why Céline stays one of the most sophisticated labels existing today.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Mature Seduction. Haider Ackermann SS18

October 2, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s rare to see a designer, who throughout time is true to his or her style, and at the same time is keen on evolving. Haider Ackermann is the perfect example of such designer. Since designing for Berluti, a solely menswear luxury brand, its visible how Ackermann’s tailoring skills have improved and grown up. But still, his signature sensibility is as alive as a decade ago. The spring-summer 2018 isn’t only about breathtaking tailoring (although if every designer had at least one impressive suit in their collection, precisely in a deep shade of burgundy, I would be more than pleased), but also a long-lasting affair with modern-looking draping. I mean, how good are those evening dresses? Dreaming to see Tilda Swinton wearing one on the red carpet, oozing with some unconventional, anti-glamour seduction. In overall, the collection was very mature and minimal, but there were some charming remnants of the ‘old’, badass-pirate-style Haider. The jackets in precious gold (a striking contrast to soft lilac and light yellow) were made of a ‘cracked-up’ fabric, and if you scan it thoroughly, you will notice that it looks like a tattered wallpaper. Really, really good. Well, I should also add ‘as always’ in case of Ackermann.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Show Girl. Nina Ricci SS18

October 1, 2017October 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Honestly, I really can’t understand why other fashion critics heavily underrate or slam Guillaume Henry‘s work at Nina Ricci. I think what he does at the heritage French maison looks extremely exquisite and at the same time isn’t too obvious. Even if we’re talking about a military-inspired jacket that had a moment at the Les Invalides fashion show. The collection started calmly: there was an ecru coat with extra-large shoulders styled with, yes, biker shorts. To a surprise of many, it ended with a vivid splash of radiant pink and eye-catching yellow. The most remarkable looks were all about feathers – from head-pieces to mini-dresses – and had something of a chic, Belle Époque inspired show girl. If all the world’s a stage, fashion must be a circus (note that even the runway was under a festive tent). As for me, just let Guillaume have a blast.