Elegance. Haider Ackermann AW17

March 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

With a critically acclaimed debut collection for Berluti, Haider Ackermann‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection was a nothing to add, nothing to take away line-up. Although the designer seems to distance himself from earlier love for spontenous draping around the body, his new collection is as intriguing as usual. And it was all about black (with hints of dark blue and white). From leather slim-fit pants and knee-lenght boots to fur inserts and desirable coats, Ackermann decided to show his affection for daily essentials in the most poetic colour of all. Don’t expect something new this time around. Instead, appreciate Haider’s wearable, dark elegance.

Sainte Nitouche. Vanessa Seward AW17

March 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sainte Nitouche. “It means coy.” Vanessa Seward explained backstage of her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show. “Nice, but naughty“. That sign was on one of her ultra-chic t-shirts, worn over a delightful, floral shirt in indigo. With one boutique in Los Angeles, one in London and three in Paris, that’s evident that Seward’s style appeals to women. This season,the designer went Yves Saint Laurent-like glam: voluminous fur coats, smoking jackets and feminine midi-skirts were the show stoppers, just like beige turtlenecks. Vanessa Seward isn’t a designer who wants to revolutionize fashion, but she isn’t interested in temporary hype neither. Her clothes are classic and French, ignoring the fact that it sounds like a boring cliché. Believe me – it’s far from boring, but rather seductive. And easy. That’s why women across the world feel so affectionate about Seward’s brilliant pieces.

In the Dark. Loewe AW17

March 11, 2017March 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In a completly darkened venue, Jonathan Anderson presented his autumn-winter 2017 collection. But darkness doesn’t neccesarly mean ‘dull’ for the creative director of Loewe. Quite opposite: Anderson sent down a line of sublime and feminine dresses, whether in pastel pink polka-dots or with shoulder-exposing sleeves. Then, those haphazard, yet elusive details that always catch one’s eye at a Loewe show: toast print on a hat, a kitty cat handbag. Trompe l’oeil effect in a number of his clothes was, just like the venue, an intriquing game with the viewer. “The collection is a continuation. Where will she go next? How does she survive?” If wearing a Loewe rabbit fur coat is the answer, I’m totally fine with that.

Ceremonial. Rick Owens AW17

March 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rick Owens doesn’t care, if you’re laughing at his autumn-winter 2017 abstract headpieces or distorted proportions. Although his collection looked somewhat dystopian, the designer said it was rather ceremonial – and ceremonies are important, whether we’re speaking of rituals or deeply-rooted tradition. “People are coming together to collectively pursue common goals and ideas.” Today, a fashion show might be lightly called a ceremony, too, as people coalesce and celebrate their ambitions and aspirations. But not only the headgear made the viewer gasp with confusion during Rick’s show. The collection’s eerieness has no end, just like the amount of elongated sleeves and duvet covers. It’s about wrapping, draping, layering, things that Owens does religiously, following it every season.

French Charm. Lemaire AW17

March 7, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re reading my blog from time to time, you might surely know how much I love Lemaire. So you can imagine how happy I was, when I visited the brand’s showroom on Le Marais for the first time, just a few days after Christophe Lemaire‘s and Sarah-Linh Tran‘s autumn-winter 2017 fashion show.

But before I will start drooling over the pieces I’ve seen in the showroom, let’s take a look at the collection. Inspired with 40s sport chic garments and Chinese uniforms, the duo had a balance of soft and austere on their mind. But the inspirations behind the collection served just as small concepts, ideas – Lemaire is never over-referential, but rather stays true to its minimal aesthetic. Corduroy tailoring, manish volumes, curved sleeves, distorted silhouttes and all of that kept mostly in flesh tones and classic black. Occasionaly, white see-through stockings peeked out; eclectic jewellery, hand-made in a Parisian atelier, brought charm; pony-hair heels defined understated cool. Lemaire and Tran always pay attention to the clothes’ quality, that’s why all the knits felt even fleecier than usual. I can’t forget to mention the denim pants. The cognac-brown tote. The shirt with XXL sleeves. I need. To. Stop.