Men’s / For Robert. Ann Demeulemeester SS18

June 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sébastien Meunier‘s spring-summer 2018 collection for Ann Demeulemeester was a clear message: a romantic ode to Robert Mapplethorpe, the late New York-based photographer. While some designers resign from mood-boards and straight-forward references, Meunier decided to fully convey his respect for the artist. In fact, the forever elusive persona of Mapplethorpe has much to do with Demeulemeester’s house-codes and legacy. For instance, the New Yorker of the 70s and 80s had an intense love relationship with Patti Smith – a muse and long-time friend of the brand’s founder. That’s quite a connection. Then, the dark aesthetic of Robert’s work and his personal style. Probably, if you could pick the best Ann Demeulemeester kind of man, then the choice would be clear. The clothes say it all: loosely-fit black trousers; sheer tank-tops; robes with a poet-like feel. But also, crumpled white shirts and lots of charms and pendants. Although Meunier definitely took the softer image of Mapplethorpe (distant from leather kinkiness), the designer succeeded reaching his goal.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs).

Men’s / Boyish Hues. Dries Van Noten SS18

June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

After celebrating a significant anniversary last season – specifically his 100th collection – Dries Van Noten decided to show pure, menswear brilliance. Everything is in-demand: the hues (which spanned from pigeon grey and pastel blue to military green and peach), the outerwear (see those trench coats) and even the extra-short shorts (most debatable trend of the fashion week in Paris). Van Noten’s boy might both, sit in the library for days or be a member of an alternative rock band. Whoever he is, I’m secretly planning to steal his wardrobe…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Soigné. Haider Ackermann SS18

June 24, 2017June 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann cuts a suit like no other. The lilac one (pictured above) worn by runway favourite Paul Hameline is defining the term soigné in menswear. It’s simple in its form, but decadent, noting that the model wears it on his bare body. But this wasn’t the only highlight coming from Ackermann’s spring-summer 2018. Pin-stripe goes laid back with the designer’s to-die-for blazers and pantalons, while the creamy tank-top styled with nonchalantly tied scarf feels eternally chic. The women’s part (understood as resort 2018 segment) is as desirable as the men’s summer, with lots of seductive flesh exposing and cropping. Haider, this one’s so good!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Handsome Volumes. Y/Project SS18

June 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Glenn Martens‘ aesthetic matures and simultaneously evolves into very exciting fields at Y/Project. The designer leaves behind his signature ‘trashiness’ and pulls off his own take on classiness. Delightful shades of beige, olive-green and burgundy emerged down the street runway in gargantuan silhouettes. Extreme layering an draping have always been rooted in Glenn’s style-codes, but never before were they so refined. The clothes were as diverse, as the casting. Literally, every single piece of clothing coming from this collection can be worn in multiple ways, according to your preference. A cotton shirt with disturbing volumes; deconstructed coats and jackets; not-your-average sweatshirts with zippers in the weirdest places. “You really have to make a choice; you have to think about how you want to wear the clothes,” the designer mused after the show.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: a still from Abbas Kiarostami’s film ‘Close Up’).

Commedia Dell’Arte. Nina Ricci Resort 2018

June 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guillaume Henry is getting better and better with every season at Nina Ricci. The labels’ autumn-winter 2017 collection presented a few months ago was, for me, one of the season’s biggest highlights. Today, we’re seeing the resort 2018 look-book, which is equally exciting. The colours! The silhouettes! The creative director’s main reference was commedia dell’arte – it’s a one-of-a-kind, Nina Ricci take on Harlequin, Pierrot and Columbine. “It’s in my blood to be bourgeois; it’s just a matter of being fun about it,” Henry explained. Indeed – canary-yellow fur coat and bumpy mini-dress, exaggerated volume of shoulders, fluffy pompoms on flats and huge collars bring aristocratic, even theatrical drama. What’s even more impressive about this collection is the way how Guillaume handled the theme. Those Harlequin-inspired shirts and coats don’t look ridiculous, but unbelievably refined. Also, greet the pistachio-green Tambour, a bag resembling a miniature drum. Genius.