Men’s / Gameboy. Prada SS18

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“They are hand-drawn, human, simple and real. Even if they contain of course all the worst fantasy, they look simple. . . . They are little fragments of life, which is what you get now from the information, the media: So I was more and more attracted by them. Even if I never liked them.” What’s Miuccia Prada talking about this season? Comic books!

The venue of the spring-summer 2018 fashion show was all covered in James Jean’s and Ollie Schrauwen’s graphics and prints, presenting some utopian, subverted reality – a reality, that has always been Prada‘s fantasy. The pieces covered in comics illustrations, like bumbags and knits, will surely end as the season’s most coveted pieces of Prada maniacs. Miuccia associates reading comics with young boys, that’s why the Prada gameboy went for geeky Velcro straps, a collar-up shirt and lots, lots of nylon. Childhood naivety in pure form: the boys are happy with their gaming achievements, while wearing red pants and sandals with socks. But Prada doesn’t want her male customer to infinitely fall into infantilism. Note the voluminous, wool coats. “Everything was a little bit too naive, too simple, so we thought these heavy coats would be the right counterpart. That is just fashion—because we love it.”

One can’t ignore the fact that it was the first men’s Prada collection in a while lacking the women’s looks. As the female part got a separate resort show a month ago at Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the guests had to focus solely on menswear. Surely, that was the aim of the brand’s management – to some extend, you rather got more ecstatic about those few dresses and gorgeous pumps than the line-up of suits. But showing both men’s and women’s clothes in a show used to be Miuccia’s vision, so…

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Out of The Studio. Marni SS18

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Although Francesco Risso‘s third collection for Marni wasn’t well-received by the critics,  his spring-summer 2018 collection works like a charm as for me. The collection has a lot to do with Marni’s main house-code: utility-meets-edgy. These clothes are the right fit for men, who like it slightly too big and comfortable simultaneously- but not falling into passé normcore or the up-and-coming corpcore. For Risso, style is arty, most of all. That’s why he invited octogenarian ceramic artist Magdalena Suarez to make prints for his intriguingly tailored shirts. I doubt any artist wears Marni while painting or sculpting – but the “out of the studio” look matches the label’s sophisticated aesthetic. Some of the styling indirectly refers to Prada (Francesco used to work for Miuccia) or Raf Simons kind of appearance – see the striped tank-top worn with a man-skirt hybrid or the slouchy voluminous suits. But who isn’t inspired with these two nowadays?

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop featuring Joan Miro’s ‘Self-Portrait’ from 1938 & Ugo Rodinone’s ‘Clown’ sculptures).

Stay or Go. Rosie Assoulin Resort 2018

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Whether you’re staying at home or going out – Rosie Assoulin‘s collections are always a pretty good idea. For resort 2018, the designer has a truly inviting offering of clothes you want to wear, when everything starts to bloom and you feel like living again. From the spring-ready green coat and adorable bucket bags to pink overalls and striped pajama pants in navy, everything is insanely beautiful and most of all, wearable. Off to your local bodega or a gallery opening, these clothes perfectly balance between utility and this kind of arty edginess (take the fluroscent pleated gown, for instance). If you’re not entirely the ‘active’ type, no problem – Rosie has the super-slouchy knit awaiting your cozy day at home. Bon weekender!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Edouard Manet’s ‘Luncheon on the Grass’).

I’m Mrs Power. Thom Browne Resort 2018

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Thom Browne does best tailoring-with-a-twist in New York, that’s sure. For resort 2018, however, the designer decided to leave surrealism for the main collection and rather focused on some of his most empowering looks to date. Those intriguingly cut suits, mid-lenght pleated skirts, cropped pants are elevating the meaning of corporate dress-code to another dimension. Crisp, white shirt is Browne’s brand essential, so no wonder why nearly every single look has something to do with it. But the Thom Browne woman isn’t only a lover of not-that-ordinary uniforms. Let’s not forget it’s a resort. A splash of yellow, blue and red is warmly welcomed in form of shirtdresses and light blazers. The designer has your back for black-tie events, too: PVC pencil skirt with a matching jacket; trompe l’oeil gown with over-sized shoulders; remarkably big, fur coat in deep black (of course). Love it all.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

In Motion. Marc Jacobs Resort 2018

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For resort 2018, Marc Jacobs wanted to convey the feeling of movement, which is so vibrantly present in the designer’s latest obsession: Robert Longo’s drawings of dancing figures. In fact, those clothes won’t look as good on a rack – they were designed to be worn, with grace. The little black dress is pure chic, and Marc might want to consider going this  path of gorgeous dressses. Pencil skirts in pastel blue, lilac and pink are trimmed in plastic beads, making them ready for any night-out. To keep it downtown and Jacobs’ way, denim and slouchy knits were styled with more ‘event’ pieces.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.