Power of PR. Sies Marjan SS17

September 14, 2016September 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sander Lak of Sies Marjan has the best PR in town. It’s his second season, and his clothes are already sold by the most meaningful retailers. The hottest models and newcomers walk his shows. Out of nowhere, all the season’s fashionistas appeared on his spring-summer 2017 show. The editors are “stunned”. But is there a reason for all that fuss? I’m still in search for this ‘something’ that makes Sies Marjan a fashion phenomenon. The newest collection is good, but it’s like a deja vu of many other, on-the-radar labels. His colour compositions are called “brilliant”, but is there anything shocking about putting together the most Instagramable pastel shades? I’m quite bored with that. Lotta Volkova, the ‘Vetements best friend’, was tapped to style the show. The effect? Definitely not as jaw-dropping as everyone expected. The collection isn’t bad – scarf-like dresses in silk, platform boots, sequined gown in saucy-red – but it’s not remarkable.

After Party. Alexander Wang SS17

September 13, 2016September 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Get over it – Alexander Wang isn’t a guy who does serious fashion. I completely understood that last season, when he sent a line of weed-printed dresses and “Strict” logo beanies. Don’t fight it. Wang’s newest collection is youth, and one thing is sure: the future success of spring-summer 2017 is based on the young customers.

Basically, it’s all about sportswear and streetwear (as usual), and that’s highlighted by the fact the event launched a collaboration with Adidas (this had to happen). The main line was a ‘remix’ of the designer’s previous collections – buckled sandals from SS16, pyjama shirts à la SS14 – and it mainly focused on unlikely, messy pairings. A fur bath-robe, neon-purple bra and board shorts. ‘Groundbreaking’. Of course, there was a wide range of lux hoodies, a bunch of sultry, Cali dresses and lots of neon-and-lace combos. The last is a rip off Christopher Kane’s cult SS11, by the way. Concluding – you can be a slave to Alexander’s “fashion”, or not join the club. But then, you won’t be invited to the after show party…

Ready to Wear. A Détacher SS17

September 12, 2016September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

New York is the only city out of the big, four fashion capitals, which is a home to designers and creatives of Mona Kowalska‘s league. Brands like A Détacher aren’t based in London, Paris or Milan for a reason – their attitude just wouldn’t fit there. Kowalska’s eponymous label, which is sold in her flagship store and at few selected boutiques in the USA, is quintessence of New York style, even if this sounds like a total cliché. It’s far from pretentious and boring, but close to functional and personal. Most of all, A Détacher’s collections are created for women, who love fashion, and LIVE their lives. Those clothes, opposing any current trends, are literally “ready to wear” – and they become an organic part of a wardrobe. For spring-summer 2017, Mona delivered a collection filled with bold pieces waiting for their unique wearers. Take the knee-length, blush-pink hoodie – it’s not here because of Vetements, and the entire streetwear thing. A Détacher hoodie, with a lace skirt under, is above that. Densely layered knit looks continue to be the labels’ best-kept secret, and its a favourite styling trick among Kowalska’s fans. The season’s biggest highlight is the introduction to new denim pants. The silhouettes are loose-fitting, all in good, old blue wash. Love.

Collage by me (as usual), feauturing Kasia Korzeniecka‘s brilliant water painting print.

Lets be real. Eckhaus Latta SS17

September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Just clothing, in a sense,” Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta said backstage after showing Eckhaus Latta’s spring-summer 2017. With an art school background, Eckhaus Latta fashion, or rather style, is well recognisable – it’s all raw, and kept in a über-cool, DIY kind of way. The clothes, designed by the Los Angeles-based duo, are nothing without the attitude of the person wearing them – a non-model, or a friend, or just a person walking down the street. Denim skirts, deconstructed t-shirts, extremely exaggerated stitchings on pants: Eckhaus Latta isn’t into fooling around with themes and, eww, trends. Although the label used to be much more radical when it made the first steps in the industry, the newest collection is a statement – lets be real.

Female Contrast. Hillier Bartley AW16

September 10, 2016September 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tom Ford might have just started his new retail model – but Hillier Bartley isn’t new in this topic. Entering September, it’s the perfect (and most practical) time to think of refreshing your autumn wardrobe. Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are here to help, in time, with their see-now, buy-now collection. The British duo has already built a ‘set’ of signatures: banana pants which do look flattering; top-notch suiting in Savile Row manner; feminine dresses with chic tassell-scarves. Also, Hillier Bartley is recognized for its Anglomania attire: at a first glance, the idea is based on the wardrobe of an English-aristocrat, who belongs to an gentlemen’s club. But then, the elegance blurs with Bowie-esque, out-of-this-world knack. With that said, don’t forget Hillier Bartley is a womenswear label, filled with women’s clothes created by women.

For autumn-winter 2016, the designers went for flea-market cool, which is so timeless and eternally relevant in London. One of the coats virtually looks like a re-cut and re-shaped Persian rug. A satin robe is worn as an evening dress according to the designers, with a pair of moccasins. Icy blue, velvet suit with a black, ribbed turtleneck underneath is a total-look worth investing. The intricately embroidered gown is a cherry on the cake – I’m obsessed with the way the oriental motif contrasts with the entire collection filled with feather elements, leopard spots and romantic, Fleetwood Mac flair. Oh, and the bags line (Hillier’s part) is blooming. From ‘Bunny’ clutches to collar-box bags with lilac tassels, the range is wide and… yummy.