Vetements lounge pants &
Gucci ‘Dionysus’ bag
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style
9 1/2 Weeks of Style
9 1/2 Weeks directed by Adrian Lyne is a cult film from the 80s, blurring the lines between refined romance and subtle erotica. Elizabeth McGraw (played by super-bombshell, Kim Basinger) and John Gray (young Mickey Rourke) find each other in New York’s Chinatown, and their relationship becomes a journey of love with ups and downs.
But what really strikes you, when you watch the film, is this something sensual about Elizabeth’s clothing. Her knitted sweater is three sizes too big, but the viewer is appealed by the way her body is hidden. As an assistant of art gallery curator, Liz prefers unconventional for her daily wear: pastel-blue tights, Jane Birkin-like basket and her favourite cocoon trench-coat. When with John, she loves her boyfriend’s businessman wardrobe, and choses to wear tailored blazers with shoulder pads and pin-stripe pants. No wonder why the two shop at Comme Des Garçons-like store (which in fact might be one), filled with Japanese avant-garde garments.
LEMAIRE Twisted Cotton And Silk-blend Poplin Wrap Shirt
SAINT LAURENT Double-breasted Twill-trimmed Grain De Poudre Wool Blazer
New York fashion scene was going through a lot, and all-black was a statement. For exhibition openings, Elizabeth was likely to be seen in a black mini-dresses with exposed shoulder, wearing dark tights of course. Watching this film, I just can’t stop thinking that fashion hasn’t changed even a bit. From Lemaire‘s slouchy shirt-and-pants chic to Jacquemus over-sized jackets, it’s clear that the spirit of 80s feels relevant up to today. While Anthony Vaccarello’s spring-summer 2017 debut for Saint Laurent is pure 9 1/2 Weeks, really: leather secretary skirts, strip-tease-perfect cocktail dresses, killer heels.
From left: Jacquemus AW16; Saint Laurent SS17; Celine AW14.
From left: Lemaire SS17; Lemaire AW16; Lemaire AW14.
COS Single-Breasted Wool-Blend Long Coat
The Frankie Shop Alsen Knitted Midi Wrap Skirt
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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That Look. Prada ’08 Goodness.
You know, there are those certain looks that stuck in your head for longer than one season. Miuccia Prada‘s genius autumn-winter 2008 collection, which was a subversive take on a Sunday-at-church look (I was drooling over it here), is filled with lace pieces and ruffled heels that will never, ever, become outdated. Look 22 is particularly impressive, from the top to the bottom. Every detail counts. Vlada Roslyakova wore a beige turtleneck with a kind of mini-collar, layered under a soft, same-colour knit. The knee-lenght skirt, kept in a pale shade, looked fantastic, styled with gold pumps and a matching, cute ruffle bag. If you ask me, what’s a Prada look, then I will show you this picture. 101% sure.
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A similar look… Equipment sand cashmere knit, Jil Sander beige knit
, Tom Ford cashmere and silk turtleneck
, Facetasmt satin skirt
& Valentino ‘Mary Janes’ shoes
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Beauty corner! Charlotte Tilbury ‘Kate Moss’ Lipstick, Charlotte Tilbury ‘Eyes to Mesmerise Kit’
& Byredo ‘Mojave Ghost’ eau de parfum .
Men’s – That Guy. Stella McCartney SS17
I can’t remind myself the last time I have written anything about Stella McCartney on my blog – her women’s fashion doesn’t appeal to me that much lately – but her first menswear collection is just too good.
Men’s fashion at Stella McCartney? That’s quite unexpected, honestly. The look-book dropped yesterday, just a few days before first spring-summer 2017 clothes hit the stores. Without any fuss, any special announcements. A great surprise for men, who felt close to Stella’s aesthetic, but didn’t find their sizes on the racks. The clothes aren’t presented on typical models, but on a pack of street-casted guys and cool-creatives, which is totally different to McCartney’s main line, where we’ve got hot names and top models in advertising campaigns. If I had to choose from this collection, I’m sure I would catch every single piece – from those chunky knits to over-sized trench coats. These are contemporary essentials, I guess. Pajama look is so me; lovely knitted sweatpants and slouchy cardigan are on my list since right now. Stella, Stella. I’m hopelessly in love with your vision of men.
Rave with Chic. Balenciaga Resort’17
Here it is: Balenciaga resort 2017 collection. Logistically, the look-book has been released just few weeks before the actual clothes hit the stores – and it’s already a craving desire to see those pieces in real-life. It went public yesterday, causing my heart to skip a beat for a longer moment. So, what’s Demna Gvasalia up to for his first, fully designed pre-collection at the French maison? First thing’s first – the caps. Some might say that sending out a line of logo caps is a desperate move to become somewhat affordable, or at least relevant for a brand. But in case of Gvasalia, it’s different. His creative background at Vetements is based on underground, rave-like style. He doesn’t have to make himself look younger in the fashion industry. He loves going out with his friends on the weekends. And, I must confess – those BALENCIAGA caps work well with voluminous, striped caftans and maxi-dresses. There’s no philosophy behind, really.
The Georgian designer looks forward to the new season through smart continuity. He’s not a type of designer who flips prints and colours every season: over-sized, bazar totes are here since his first collection, just like the elevated corporate jacket. However, there are a few exciting additions, like the exaggerated flares, scuba-diving tops and beautifully ugly bermuda shorts. Gvasalia seems to understand the idea behind a pre-collection quite well – he’s aware that it’s the commercial part of his job, unlike the runway show. For some designers, who get too frustrated with all those pre-falls and resorts, it’s still a secret.
