Reflections on Taste. Miu Miu AW16

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Although we’ve had the newcomers (Jasmine Sanders, Julia Banas), hot faces of Anna Cleveland and Edie Campbell type, Insta-fames (Gigi and Kendall) and the top-models, so the one-and-only Adriana Lima and Lara Stone, the Miu Miu girls were as nutty as the old ladies you meet on the street, and with whom you wouldn’t truly fancy a date. However, there was something appealing about these girls, wearing layered denim and furniture-tapestry maxi-skirts. As if Miuccia Prada wanted to show the risky, yet very feminine way of dressing, which is based on mixing contrasting, old and slightly cheesy clothes… but out of necessity, and not because of a current trend. Corduroy bombers and denim jackets with lace collars had something of a college girl memoirs – all of the jackets were embroidered with models’ boyfriend name tags. A nod to teenage romance, or a real-life tendency of sharing your wardrobe in a relationship?

But the youthful spirit of Prada’s sister line becomes much more mature, and less likely to feel appealing to a younger clientele. The lilac dress, worn by Lara, had the Cafe Marchesi florals everywhere, while the old-fashioned Jacquard coats and velvet belts smelled with Parisian thrift shops. These clothes are nostalgic and frivolous, and the entire collection questions good-taste. Although it was mostly slammed by the critics, I liked it.

Miu Miu always makes me feel relaxed by the end of the fashion month. With exhaustion in my fingers and a reflective mood on fashion, I am quite happy to announce that it’s the end of the autumn-winter 2016 couverage – uff!

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System Hang. Louis Vuitton AW16

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Even Nicolas Ghesquiere needs a break. Although  Louis Vuitton‘s creative director look always into the future, and wants to be as fast as his muse, Lightning, the hero of Final Fantasy XIII and face of the house’s most recent campaign, this season it’s distinctly visible that Ghesquiere is having a throwback to his best Balenciaga and Vuitton moments. Not that the collection is bad – quite the opposite, this chic, luxe Tomb Raider girl is Nicolas’ long-term concept, which both excites and sells. But it just feels like the autumn-winter collection doesn’t have this sense of new, which is always conveyed in his collections. How many sweatshirts will we see, or those satin, sporty dresses? And why are the last-season’s patent-leather boots again in the show (well, because they were best-sellers – but I doubt whether Ghesquiere’s aim is to go Valentino’s path and become an accessory-loving, commerce-wise designer)? Believe it or not, but this collection looks usual and quite easy to pull off, and even more banal, when you are Nicolas Ghesquiere. Phoebe Philo can confess she is having a chill – but I doubt Vuitton’s designer, noting the capacity of the brand, can let himself for a system hang.

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Stillness and Comfort. Céline AW16

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Fashion is in hurry, and nobody knows where is it heading to. But Phoebe Philo, just like a few other designers, says “no” to see-it-now, buy-it-now trend, which has stormed such brands like Proenza Schouler or Paco Rabanne. The autumn-winter collection from Céline has a message – calm down. Appreciate the quality, the time. The way these clothes fit on your body. “I came about it through wearing it,” she said. “It’s always that.” This time, the designer who understands women’s daily needs best, focused on her all-time favourites, from over-sized pants and voluminous tunics to suede vests and seasonless coats. Satin gave the dresses a flowing, fluid-like texture, and the fleecy, black “bubble” tops with an armhole had this sophisticated, yet effortless mood about them. The soft, pillow bags looked dreamy, and they will definitely have room for everything needed, and unneeded.. Strangely, though, this collection doesn’t look like a winter one (except the caramel shearling coats and tweed mini-dresses) – there were classical sandals on bare feet, and a lot of subtle flesh exposing. However, on the other side of the globe we’ve got summer, always. And Céline is an internationally wide-spread brand.

The collection, in fact, is full of clothes which can be worn without much consideration or (again a cliché) effort. They are the house’s strengths, and a woman who adores Céline and Philo’s touch will surely have her wardrobe completed with these everyday basics. “It’s a busy world, and I find I have this idea of stillness with Céline”.

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Art Dealer Fashion. Olympia Le-Tan AW16

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In Paris’ hottest contemporary art gallery, Galerie Perrotin, Olympia Le-Tan staged her arty and extremely French presentation for autumn-winter 2016 season. The location was the right fit for her Parisian-chic embodying clothes and bags, with her dad’s Murakami, Erró, and Sophie Calle illustrated intepretations. The pastel-pink, vichy prints worked well with the olive-green coats, while the adorable, sequinned mini dress with Damien Hirst-like polka-dots is my personal favourite – I mean, it’s a go-to choice for an art exhibition! Looking at Olympia’s models, who have helped her to envision an art auction scenario (with Sabine Getty as a posh art buyer, Le-Tan’s sister, Cleo, as a secretarial assistant and Lily Summer as an eccentric girl), the whole event / fashion show felt absolutely entertaining, and humorous. And the Christian Louboutin lace-up stilettoes, splashed with paint the other day by Katie Hillier, were pure FUN.

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Not Just a Punk. Acne Studios AW16

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You always feel an energetic attitude at Acne Studios collections, naturally caused by the bold colour palette, psychedelic prints and the 80s spirit which surrounds the clothes. The creative director of the brand, Jonny Johansson, has been inspired by a Californian punk band, The Cramps, and their rebellious, acid-dyed looks. But the autumn-winter 2016 outing wasn’t a wannabe “grunge” collection. Johansson reinterpreted his obsession, playing with silhouettes (orange, duvet jackets worn as kimono dresses, for example) and textures. From a transparent PVC top, which hid a striped mini-dress, to über-cool yellow leopard patterns on the knits and undies, the designer proves that a punk soul has many forms of its appearance – but it always keeps on looking defiant, and going against the flow!

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