Cherish the Day. No21 Pre-Fall’16

December 23, 2015August 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s again all about Alessandro Dell’AcQua – however, this time we are talking about the designer’s home-label, N21. After the festive pre-fall collection which he delivered at Rochas just a few days ago, the Italian designer took an interesting twist at N21, refreshing his house codes and bringing new motifs – like the kitty-kat prints and embroideries on knitted, chunky sweaters and mini-bags. Also, the current European weather, which is definitely not about a white Christmas, makes this collection look and feel perfect for the moment – long coats with strips of velvet, silk dresses in military hues, series of light, masculine shirts with lace sleeves and the flawless, parachute maxi dresses in red and green are the total highlights of the season. Also, the shearling jacket with delicate embroidery had a moment. Just like the bow-top, which is an exaggerated symbol of N21, the collection is full of toned, yet cheerful clothes. And surely, Alessandro and his studio have a reason to celebrate – 2016 will start with an opening the first European flagship store in the heart of Milan, and later on, the brand will set a launch of the childwear line. The optimistic attitude is visible in both, the pre-fall 2016 look-book and the designer’s Instagram feed!

New Year Eve Tips. Rochas Pre-Fall 2016

December 21, 2015December 21, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Even though these clothes will hit the stores only in June, Rochas delivered its pre-fall 2016 collection just in time before Christmas and New Year Eve fuss. Literally, this collection is a treasury of tips for a chic party outfit. Alessandro Dell’AcQua, who celebrates his second year at this heritage couture house, knows the codes of Rochas inside out – the meticulously embroidered silks, masterful Chantilly lace usage and the richness of textiles is not strange to him at all, but rather makes him feel like in his opulent fashion heaven. Also, Alessandro’s all-time favourite fashion trick for a slight granny-elegance update is here – socks worn with fancy pussy-bow pumps. This season, the fur game is strong for Rochas, too – the beautiful shades of blue, chestnut and burgundy made the variety of outerwear look more than fun. The non-chalance kept in the slouchy, fur stoles and the on-the-go idea of putting a slip-dress over a t-shirt will never disappoint or bore. And definitely not during a tasteful, New Year party.

Modular. JW Anderson Pre-Fall’16

December 20, 2015December 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson never fails to deliver a provoking and literally mind-blowing collection for his own, eponymous label. For pre-fall 2016, the J.W. Anderson woman is continuing her wardrobe musings from the summer outing – the remarkable, leg-of-mutton sleeves and bra-like crop-tops blurred with the stereotypical appeal of fish-net tights. “Modular” is what he called his lookbook, meaning the way the silhouettes overlap each other and the Edwardian-like sleeves which are a minimal nod to the past. However, “modular” might also mean the interesting way Jonathan mixes different textures and elements – strips of fur are combined with cloud-like pillows, creating a very sculptural jacket. Just to make it even more extraordinary, take a note of the shoes – the nylon covered, 90’s studded boots make this collection even more… unexpected. And surely one-of-a-kind!

Designers of 2015 – Stella Jean

December 12, 2015December 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Born in Rome and of Caribbean descent, Stella Jean’s aesthetic is a fusion of her Creole heritage and meticulous, Italian craftsmanship. As a designer who respects ethnical matters, Stella Jean should be praised not only for her breath-taking clothes, but for her idea of giving women and men around the world (from Burkina Faso to Kenya) a chance to do their craft in ethical and comfortable conditions!

AW15 – At the end of March, I went to Milan to preview Stella’s AW15 – the embroidery, the prints, the colour combinations looked impressive. And what’s interesting, thanks to mixing classical, Italian heritage with the Bollywood-inspired theme, the AW15 collection is absolutely avoiding the word “kitsch”. There’s nothing too excessive about this collection – basically, Stella delivered a set of wearable pieces decorated with mesmerizing embroideries and bold print matchings. These voluminous skirts look so great with the ethno-patterned knits and simple, checked shirts!

AW15 Men – For autumn-winter 2015, Stella focused on India and Nepal – warm colours, enchanting embroideries and oriental silhouettes appeared not only in her womenswear collection, but also in men’s. The boys look good in this lifey, printed splendour! The kaleidoscopic jackets, hand-stitched pea-coats and turquoise trousers rule. Also, this collection brings Wes Anderson’s emotional Darjeeling Limited mood to the men’s wardrobe.

Ave Cesaria by Stromae started to beat from the speakers. The ultra-modern venue of newly opened MUDEC Museum striked all of the guests. Just like the absolutely unexpected collection delivered by Stella Jean, the most bold and ethical-fashion thinking person in Milan. Stella Jean’s spring-summer 2016 collection marks the geographical and emotional map on which the main stages of Italian migrant identity are charted. And that’s not all. South America, North America, Africa and Europe are the destinations, that the Stella Jean woman reaches. As the show-note said, “the port of departure, so to speak, is Italy, represented by its sharp, sartorial qualities” – comfortable, wearable silhouettes were visible in over-sized pants and Euro-sleekness of polo shirts. Then, the journey continues, and Stella takes us to Brazil, full of raffia ruffles and Cariocan multi-coloured flounces. The imaginary “travel” itinerary is ready for the next place – the Andes, represented by artisanal and hand-painted motifs including pinatas, daily life of women wearing traditional bowler hats and striped tunics which reflected Andean style.

The ethnical beauty of the collection is contrasted by American varsity jackets and over-sized cowboy shirts, while trench coats and men’s formal striped shirts made a sign of London’s well-known Savile Row needle. However, it is worth to note that some of the fabrics were hand-made in Burkina Faso. Stella Jean and her SS16’s flowing dresses, boxy jackets and “amphora-like” skirts not only made a strong impression, but also felt very right for the current, migration conflict. The collection was like a melting-point of cultures, filled with beauty and creative freedom. Also, it proves that fashion can be politically important.

In a Pompeian Villa. Gucci Pre-Fall’16

December 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The first Pre-Fall collection by Alessandro Michele dropped, and one thing is sure – the creative director of Gucci doesn’t follow the trends and continues to illustrate his vision. His woman for autumn is a aristocratic lady, who lives with her green parakeet in a renaissance Pompeian villa, filled with antique decor and impressive bisazza tiles. Artist and photographer Ari Marcopoulos captured the models wearing metallic leather pleated skirts, aloe hued plush jackets, heart embroidered Sylvie bags and beautiful pumps with red-mouth-detail straps. As usual in case of Michele’s collections for this luxurious Italian brand, every look has its own, romantic story and is ready for personal interpreatation. The hand-made patchwork on denim brought some 70s vibes, while the floor-sweeping tulle dress with hand-painted “tree of life” had me wonder about a September walk in the forest. As you see, the Gucci girl is keeping it true to her style, and that’s why Michele received his place on the list of the best designers of 2015, which you can see here!