New York. Givenchy SS16

September 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Having Givenchy in New York is unusual – this historical, French house in the Big Apple. Riccardo Tisci‘s plan to expand the brand in America is already taking a spin, as the first Givenchy flagship has just opened. The show (which quested about 1000 people – fashionistas, editors and real people, who caught their free tickets) was artistically directed by Marina Abramovic on Pier 26 with a stunning view on Manhattan. The clothes were interesting, too – satin tops and dresses were sexy while lace details gave the entire collection a romantic mood. Tisci also brought some haute couture to NYC – the eveningwear was mesmerizing. Tulle in the shape of alligator skin on a body-dress was an absolute favourite. Of course, Riccardo’s Givenchy wouldn’t be Givenchy without some splendour – the model had nose-rings and crystals “attached” to their faces, looking like princesses from the Arabian Nights. In comparison to the last few collections of Givenchy, this one was a really, really good one. And it feels like Riccardo Tisci again looks towards the clothes, and not celebrities.

Modern Femininity. Area SS16

September 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I feel proud to see a Polish accent in New York. AREA is the brainchild of Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk – a brand, which changes the meaning of femininity. Their signature Braille-effect textiles made over-sized ruffles, elongated sleeves and glamorous gowns look lady-like, but not totally. It had a lot to do with the 70’s glamorama – the make-up, the hair, the whole “eponymous” bling. But from the other side, AREA makes it specific femininity look alien. Is it because of the embossed texture? Or the over-the-knee leg covers? And then, we’ve got the pilgrim shoes with buckles that are a totally diffrent story. It seems to me, that AREA has a lot to say… and I am really interested how will it evolve!

Every Woman. Rachel Comey SS16

September 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rachel Comey is a female fashion designer who designs for woman. It’s tempting to say, that she is Phoebe Philo of New York. Although her very wearable clothes are more affordable, her philosophy is very close to woman’s perfect wardrobe. And rather than having a classical model casting, the “models” of the show were diverse, different-age women. All of these “models” were dancers from the Robbins Childs company, with which Comey collaborated on a video presentation for Resort 2016. They were dresses in easy silhouettes, that suited their various sizes and shapes; slouchy cotton blazers, baggy dresses with flesh-exposing cuts, signature culottes and the wooden wedges were the highlights – however, the distressed denim won everybody’s heart. The mini-dress with a Corbusier-inspired pattern and high-waisted, over-sized pants will definitely sell first when they hit the stores in New York.

Hillier Bartley

August 27, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hillier Bartley’s advertisement campaign photographed by David Sims.

Ladies & gentlemen, welcome Hillier Bartley – a new brand coming from the British designer duo, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley. After closing the sister line of Marc Jacobs, MBMJ, these two truly unique personalities decided to open their new chapter in fashion! Firstly, in February, Hillier Bartley was quietly presented to few buyers; then, a mysterious Instagram account appeared. And now it is the time to see, what they are really up to – edgy, slightly decadent style that celebrates English tailoring with feminine twist. Warm wool coats, fringed bags, satin blouses and lady-like silk gowns – and all of that kept in a cool, quite nostalgic manner. No wonder why you can find Tracey Emin, David Bowie and Debbie Harry in the brand’s AW15 moodboard. Also, Hillier’s signature bunny motif appeared in the collection in form of adorable clutches.

The collection will be exclusively available at Matches from September 2nd.

In September issue of Vogue US by David Sims.

Post Anti-Fashion

August 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Vetements in French means clothes – but Vetements goes far beyond the meaning of clothes in today’s fashion industry. It exaggerates clothes. It elongates the sleeves, gives volume to cowboy boots and makes floral grandma dresses look provocative, and kind of sexy. Led by Demna Gvasalia and six other anymous designers, who met while working as design team at Maison (Martin) Margiela, Vetements is the new force which makes fashion rules feel even more useless than ever. Even their AW15 fashion show wasn’t a typical event where clothes were celebrated in a traditional way. But don’t think it was done in a buzzy, Chanel way – oh no. The “creative network” of the brand took their guests to Le Depot, a sleazy sex-club, where everybody felt a mood of anti-fashion. At first sight, you might not really understand the collection – but in reality, it is not that deep in its meaning as you might think. These clothes, even though look pretty grotesque, are wearable. Gvasalia claims “as long as we can make clothes that people want to wear and they find them cool and relevant, that’s my understanding of hype”. Although the styling is complicated and well-considered (or not), separately the clothes are easy. Take the over-sized trench coat. You can wear it with everything – even if you might look like a hobo, you look like a anti-fashion person. But the thing about Vetements is, that you need to feel this anti-fashion thing. And live in it, consciously.

Vetements’ AW15 collection seemed to have a brutal, violent attitude in it, too. But this can be easily explained. Raised in 80s Soviet Union Georgia, Demna’ childhood was shaped by the aggressive gang youth culture, and the certain censorship of the USSR. The topic of Soviet youth is also repeatedly presented by another Paris-based designer, Gosha Rubchinkiy. In fact, both of these designers develop a new movement in fashion, which you might like or not – post anti-fashion. “Yeah, I like that. No one knows what it means” Gvasalia said with a laugh while being interview for i-D. In other words, Vetements should be kept on the radar during the fashion week in September, folks, because it is truly intriguing.