Vetements in French means clothes – but Vetements goes far beyond the meaning of clothes in today’s fashion industry. It exaggerates clothes. It elongates the sleeves, gives volume to cowboy boots and makes floral grandma dresses look provocative, and kind of sexy. Led by Demna Gvasalia and six other anymous designers, who met while working as design team at Maison (Martin) Margiela, Vetements is the new force which makes fashion rules feel even more useless than ever. Even their AW15 fashion show wasn’t a typical event where clothes were celebrated in a traditional way. But don’t think it was done in a buzzy, Chanel way – oh no. The “creative network” of the brand took their guests to Le Depot, a sleazy sex-club, where everybody felt a mood of anti-fashion. At first sight, you might not really understand the collection – but in reality, it is not that deep in its meaning as you might think. These clothes, even though look pretty grotesque, are wearable. Gvasalia claims “as long as we can make clothes that people want to wear and they find them cool and relevant, that’s my understanding of hype”. Although the styling is complicated and well-considered (or not), separately the clothes are easy. Take the over-sized trench coat. You can wear it with everything – even if you might look like a hobo, you look like a anti-fashion person. But the thing about Vetements is, that you need to feel this anti-fashion thing. And live in it, consciously.
Vetements’ AW15 collection seemed to have a brutal, violent attitude in it, too. But this can be easily explained. Raised in 80s Soviet Union Georgia, Demna’ childhood was shaped by the aggressive gang youth culture, and the certain censorship of the USSR. The topic of Soviet youth is also repeatedly presented by another Paris-based designer, Gosha Rubchinkiy. In fact, both of these designers develop a new movement in fashion, which you might like or not – post anti-fashion. “Yeah, I like that. No one knows what it means” Gvasalia said with a laugh while being interview for i-D. In other words, Vetements should be kept on the radar during the fashion week in September, folks, because it is truly intriguing.
Photography by Harley Weir