It’s November, and what’s better than an autumn-wardrobe update? Here is my editorial for Concept 21 Store, which has just received a new delivery from N21. Mohair sweaters with feather appliqué, comfortable denim trousers and uber-cool hoodies designed by Italian designer, Alessandro Dell’AcQua, are all here, looking at their best. All photographs were taken inside and in the vicinity my favourite cheesecake & coffee place, Piece of Cake. Enjoy.
Piece of Cake / ul. Zydowska 29 / Poznan
“At this time of my departure from Lanvin on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder,” he writes, “I wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the last 14 years . . . together, we have met the creative challenge presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury houses.”
Alber Elbaz, one of the most loyal fashion designers, was officially fired from the house of Lanvin. After 14 years of beautiful, feminine collections, he was simply asked to leave, due to the fact he opposed to the unbelievable speed of fashion industry, which makes major designers feel frustration, and young designers struggle. Throughout his career, Alber presented and tried to prolifically approach the house of revolutionary Jeanne Lanvin – four collections a year for women, and two for men designed together with Lucas Ossendrijver. But still, the share-holders of the brand felt dissatisfied with Elbaz. And this causes a big problem in the fashion industry system – where is it heading to? To even bigger desire of consumerism? To more and more of beauty? Wait. Even the most couture-ish gown looses its beauty in this situation. The best example of that is a 500 euro jacket, that H&M will soon sell in collaboration with Balmain. Who cares that it’s beautifully embroidered, if it was produced in thousands of exemplars. This isn’t really on topic right now, but people who are planning to buy this jacket at H&M for such a price… well, then good-luck with completing your wardrobe with too expensive Made in China clothes.
But coming back to Alber Elbaz and his Lanvin history. When I have looked back at all of his collections this morning, I nearly cried. His signature, draped dresses. His opulent, yet simply cut tops. The ruffled details. The new definition of Parisian chic, that we all know understand thanks to Elbaz’ silhouettes and ways of dressing women. After those 14 years, it feels like Alber rebuilt the legacy of this French house, giving a lot of future references to the designer that will be soon announced. I just wonder who will be so desperate to work with such “demanding” and ignorant owners. Any guesses?
Maryam Nassir Zadeh is a go-to label and store in New York, where eponymous, yet affordable clothes and accessories are sold. For her namesake line, Maryam released the spring-summer 2016 look-book, photographed by talented Lea Colombo. The clothes are presented by two models, who reflect the Nassir Zadeh client – Mari Giudicelli and Susan Cianciolo. Devoided of fashionista crowd and massive PR explosion, the SS16 collection is a combination ranging from the designer’s signatures – note the super comfortable leather sandals and flattering dresses – to chic high-waisted trousers, sheer shirts and ecru shaded swimwear. However, the most exciting part of the line’s collection is the introduction of reworked denim. A pair of MNZ jeans, patchworked with diversity of indigo washes, seems to be the brand’s future best-selling piece, just like the glove shoes which stole the hearts of many women in the past seasons. Although Nassir Zadeh shows her collections one month after the New York Fashion Weeks, she never fails to deliver hearty and supremely stylish clothes.
It’s a kind of fashion tradition, that we see Celine‘s pre-collection just few weeks before they hit the stores. When Phoebe Philo introduced this rule, the fashion system shifted. No wonder why – when we see the pre-collections six months before they are really available, there is a kind of deja vu feeling later on. There is a lack of excitement. When Philo drops her pre-collection, there is this surprise effect that certainly moves the brand’s customers when they walk into the stores. The resort 2016 is a true pleasure, both for the eye and the desire sense. The collection is a modern version of a French wardrobe – here, you will surely find a striped shirt, high-waisted pants and a raffia tote from the Basque summer adventures. Also, the wardrobe contains an essence of minimal, French glamour, which was strong in the 60’s & 70’s Paris – take the green, Pierre Cardin-like vest or Yves Saint Laurent safari trench-coat, revisited with some arty patterns. There is the feeling of a “woman who travels” in this collection, too – the Babouche slippers convey the oriental mood and the eclectic jewellery brought from Milan’s most edgy flea-markets and antiquaries. In brief, Phoebe wins my heart, as usual. Is this something new?
Beautiful moments from the No21 showroom, which presented their latest, spring-summer 2016 collection. I instantly fell in love with easy tank-top dresses that had white t-shirts under. Also, note the seductive and very chic cigarette prints on knitted tops and sweat-shirts. The cappuccino coloured denim flares gave a fresh air of French cool, looking off-duty with big, cabas totes. The tasseled, raffia sandals that have referenced to tribal Africa are killing it, just as the rest of the collection. As usual, Alessandro Dell’AcQua nailed it!
All photos by me.
