The NG Day

May 10, 2015May 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

10th of May – this means, it’s Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s birthday! Let’s celebrate it, by looking back at his biggest moments at Balenciaga, and now at Louis Vuitton – the time-line proves that this guy is a real fashion visionaire. Wishing him all the best!

AW01 – the “all black” collection. Nicolas showed his amazing tailoring skills through elegant jackets, coats and blazers.

AW02 – One of my favourite collections ever. He showed soft, oversized sweaters and jackets, and a small group of colorful knee-length collage dresses apparently influenced by Cubist paintings.

AW04 – This shearling jacket from 2004 is my dream.

SS05

SS06 – The jacket from this collection photographed by Nick Knight.

Nicolas and his friend, Charlotte Gasinsbourg, in AW10.

SS11 – Campaign photographed by Inez & Vinoodh.

AW12 – Cosmic sweatshirts.

AW14 – Arrival at Louis Vuitton.

AW14

Louis Vuitton SS15 photographed by Juergen Teller.

Jeanne Damas in SS15‘s corduroy trousers and bra.

AW15 – Fernanda Ly on the runway.

Resort 2016 – An extravagant show in Palm Springs, California.

TBC.

Stella Jean Boys

May 8, 2015May 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Stella Jean is the queen of ethnic fashion. Her women’s collections are always way better than many other Milan-based designers fancy shows. For AW15 season, Stella referenced her work to India and Nepal – sunny colours, enchanting embroideries and oriental silhouettes appeared not only at her women’s collection, but also at men’s. I mean, these guys look so good in all that bold, print splendour! The kaleidoscopic jackets, hand-stitched pea-coats and turquoise trousers rule. Although I am not a print-loving person, I would love to wear a few of those pieces on myself.

Playful Simplicity. Celine Pre-Fall’15

May 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

There is always a kind of strong anticipation while waiting for the release of Celine’s pre-collections. What Phoebe Philo is going to propose to us this season? Pre-fall at Celine usually means a selection of classical, sophisticated clothes kept in toned colours – this time, Phoebe went slightly more playful, pushing her austere comfort zones. After seeing the AW15 collection, I wasn’t surprised its pre-version will be kind of fun. Hand-embroidered folklore caftans, fringed ponchos and over-sized, burgundy culottes are just few to mention. There was also the slip-dress action – worn in a very Celine-ish way, it felt light and slightly infantile, but in a good way. In overall, a confusion between mature elegance and childish innocence was presemt in these as usually great clothes. Can’t wait to see it strike the stores!

Theory of Chaos

April 14, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

A.F. Vandevorst is a Belgian brand that always impresses me. But this time because of two reasons. The first thing is their SS15 window display in their Antwerp flag-ship store, which is all about their fashion show parachute dress which is a true work of art. I am simply amazed with it’s mind-blowing effect. Then, the second thing: their elusive, slightly eerie winter collection look-book. The clothes inspired with Peru (note all these pompons and shearling), beautifully combined with A.F.’s signature rock’n’roll edge look more than cool. Decadent, sculptural and niche. That’s how I would describe the spark hidden in this collection, and the brand’s really great ideas.

Poor But Cool. Anton Belinskiy AW15

April 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

From Kiev Fashion Week, Anton Belinskiy seemed to be the biggest highlight. I truly loved the attitude his AW15 clothes had – they seemed to say “whatever” to everything, but in good sense. “Poor But Cool” knits and dresses clearly said, that everybody can wear a fur coat (in blush pink colour). The voluminous skirts and flared tops were constructed out of sporty, colourful textiles, which gave the whole collection a chilled, slightly edgy vibe.